RC-Monster Forums - My Maxx Kicks Your Maxx's Ass Build

Haven't posted in a while but I have a huge new update!

CENTER DIFF CONVERSION!

I already started on it and have done quite a bit, so I will post the current stuff, where it's at now.

Alright, here are the beginning stages of the center diff conversion. Just got the center diff mounted night before last, had a few issues along the way but took care of them, they go as follows -

First, the mounting holes of the center diff mount on one side. A major problem here is the fact that the holes where it would mount to the buggy chassis are narrow, so for my center diff top plate, it will be pretty much impossible to mount a top plate, which I absolutely have to have to prevent flexing. Solution, switch the CD mounts around on the diff, so the one with the wider holes is where the motor plate mounts to. The pictures have the motor plate mounted to the diff mount with the narrow holes, because I only realized this after I test fitted everything. Another solution in addition to making a center diff top plate and switching the center diff mounts around - order aluminum center diff mounts. I will be ordering Integy aluminum center diff mounts, because they are the only ones who make them to fit this OFNA center diff (I think, please post a link if you have another brand that makes aluminum diff mounts for OFNA Ultra series buggies.). The Integy aluminum mounts will be stronger than the plastic, so while they might not be perfect, they will be better than just the plastic mounts.

Second problem was with the screws on the motor plate, they wouldnt let the motor go far enough down. Solution, I realized that the brake discs from my CD had almost the perfect width holes to fit to my motor. All I had to do was drill out the holes to be a bit bigger on my drill press, and dremel some groves in them to clear the motor mount screws. With these brake discs as spacers, they support the whole motor and will prevent the screws that hold the motor to the motor mount from bending.

Third problem was driveshaft/dogbone length and center diff position. With the first set of holes in the center skid, it set to far back and would rock the rear bulkhead when the rear shaft would turn because the pin was contacting the outdrive cups. Solution, elongate the center diff mounting holes in the skid plate to adjust the position.

Fourth problem was directly associated with the third problem. I had not dremeled out enough of the braces and chassis, so with the center diff moved forward to accommodate shaft length, the spur contacts the braces and chassis. Solution, just dremel more of the chassis and braces so the spur will no longer contact.

The fifth problem is still a theory, but I have a feeling that with as long as my motor is (80mm long), there will need to be some kind of support under it to prevent the motor from bending or flexing the motor mount on hard landing, possibly ruining the motor mount or motor. My solution, make a support out of some angle aluminum. I will probably cut a hole the size of the motor (about 37mm so it fits around it) and then about the top 1/3 of the hole off of the support, so its about a 2/3 circle of aluminum to go around the motor and prevent it from moving. One major problem with this however is that I will have the make the support be shorter than the distance from the bottom of the motor to the chassis, so I can add shims under it and adjust its height for gear mesh changes, which would become extremely annoying and a total PITA to do. So another idea I had was just to get a simple piece of Delrin about 3/8'' thick machined to have a 18mm or 18.5mm radius half circle machined, so the it would somewhat look like this ~ |O| ~ but cut in half horizontally. This would probably be easier than the angle aluminum because I could have screws threaded right into the bottom of it rather than going all the way through, and using shims to adjust the height of it would work well, could use pieces of sheet steel as shims. Will probably order the Delrin from McMaster-Carr, and machine it myself with my drill press, will probably just cut out a close to the right size hole with a hole saw then dremel it until its the right diameter, and then cut it in half and drill and tap the holes.

Still to do -

Order the Integy aluminum center diff mounts
ORDERED!

Order some 6061 aluminum plate, 1/8'' thick, for my center diff top plate, then make my center diff top plate, order from McMaster-Carr
Change of plans, using 1/4'' Lexan, will be stiff enough and it's much easier to work with, plus it looks cool! May also change my mind and make it out of steel

Order some 3/8'' thich Delrin from McMaster-Carr for my motor support

Order the T-Maxx servo mounting plates
ORDERED!

Order some more countersunk washers
ORDERED!

Make a Lexan radio box

Dremel some more of the braces and chassis

Install long 1/8 rear black heavy springs on the rear shocks, will probably cut them so they are the same length as the front springs, or make make them longer and thread the preload screws up some so the rear is a bit stiffer than the front

Install a new pin in the right rear MIP CVD (it came out again) with threadlock

Cut out the battery trays from my E-Maxx chassis and mount them on the T-Maxx chassis, they will be mounted with spacers under them for some airspace for a bit of cooling, and to keep the trays from being tilted inward

Clean up all of the wiring, mount my antenna, and should be good to go

My main goal is to do all of the work on this myself and not have to have any companies do custom work for me.

Now for the best part, current pictures -

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN2561.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN2562.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN2563.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN2564.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN2565.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN2566.jpg