Measured pin to pin... what rear shaft are you using?

I will order from rc alloy. CD and monoblock don't think I will find any standard..
Thanks AA

If I were you I would put the cd as far forward as possible with the motor hanging on the back and spur and pinion foward. Not only does it look the best IMO but with the power of the brushless motor it will help keep the front down. I am running the savage xl bone in my gmaxx and it is a quality peice and cheap also. Rcalloys no longer make bones anymore he closed the doors. I have a rcalloys 95mm bone and a steel 110 mm bone.

I will need +10 mm in the front shaft to get the mount perfect on the center skidplate..
When the cd are in place I can measure the rear shaft.

So now you are going to have to buy 2 hard to (get & find) custom made bones instead of one.You need +10mm bone in addition to what?? IMHO I would use a standard ue 57.5mm titanium bone the front and figure out the back after mock up. If this helps I have these bones availiable. UE titanium 57.5 , 70mm and 100.5mm. I also have rcalloys stainless 57mm and 95mm. I have steel 70mm,94mm,110mm and 142mm.

Maxxrickard, since you are using the FLM chassis and monoblock combo... your chassis will be the same length as mine... the drive train should be the same as well since your using the spider CD...
I don't see why you can't use the Savage XL center shafts... It's not a tight fit, so I used a little fuel tubing in each drive cup to reduce movement of shafts....

Did you drill the holes in the center skid to install the CD mount yet? if not... do a dry mock up with some dowels cut just over 142mm and 63mm... put them together and see if the fit will work
for you... if so, you will have a cheap fix to the drive shaft problem...

See the pic below:


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4vPm5E8J5HA/S_...0/DSC_4599.jpg
If you look closely, you will see the small piece of fuel tubing in the cup apply outward pressure on the drive shaft


Alien

I haven't drilled the hole yet but I have order: Heavy Duty Dog Bone for the HPI Savage SS/21/25/X/Flux HP. It's 83/8.
But if your bones is to small maybe this will be fine with the 142 rear bone. It's 20mm longer than your set up AA. What do you think?

Do the mock up with 83mm and 142mm... see how well it works... then you will know what direction to take...

Alien

I just found your build Angry-Alien that is one sick build. I agree with you as far as using the savage center bones I dont see why they wont fit.

Thanks boys.
I have order 83 in front and 142 rear. Maybe maybe

Did you meassure first? I think the only way the wouldnt fit is if the center diff is different demension cup to cup. The actually flm chassis should be the same except AA modded his but the braces,skids and mono should should be identicle demensions.

No... $10 I will try..

thanks man :yes:... yep, they are strong, cheap and are more or less a perfect fit...

What mail address do I use to contact mike??

Click the link below:

Post here if you are trying to get a hold of Mike...

spider CD and a monoblock, it was hard to find the right dogbones.. now i have 95mm in the front and 142mm rear and its PERFECT
thanks rivermaxx for your help

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1020288.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1020289.jpg

not muck space between motor and chassi, 2-3mm

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1020290.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1020291.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1020293.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1020299.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/P1020300.jpg

That looks sooo good.

This is nearly exactly what mine truck would have been if I didn't find that mutant chassis.

The black and silver looks stunning.

Agreed :yes:... it's looking really good... nice work man...

Alien

Makes me miss my FLM chassis.
Looks good.
Maybe should sell my G2 chassis and go back.

I like that receiver box, who makes it? Thanks.

I'd say it's from Golden Horizons

Yes it is.

i need a better hex to my truck.
i have traxxas 17 mm but its not so good.i need it tighter.
i will buy a set of spi wheels and need a good set of hex 14 or 17 mm.
any suggestion?

http://www.teknorc.com/index.php?cPath=100

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-17mm-Adapters

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-T-Maxx-Blue-4

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNWR8&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVWF6&P=7

If the hex feels sloppy on the axle shaft, you can try wrapping some aluminium tape around the shaft to remove the slop, seen alot of people doing this on their traxxas summits since the larger/heavier wheels make the slop more apparent..

Thanks Neil.

Why did my lipocontacts explode?
-I took my truck for a 2 min ride, not in topspeed just 2 metersruns.
-I disconnect two motor wires and the lipo contacts, with my esc still ON.
When I connect the lipo wires,PANG!! The 5.5 mm bullet contacts is very very broken.
My question is why? Did it happend because the esc was on?
What to do? I have order new lipo.

You must never disconnect or try to connect a motor when the esc is powered up, you must ALWAYS turn it off before making wiring changes- was the motor still partially disconnected when you plugged in the lipos? If it was, then the esc tried to make the motor chime ( the musical tones come from the motor phases ) but couldnt, resulting some kind of short circuit or massive current discharge.

Now you need to order some new bullet connectors to replace the damaged ones- you might be able to salvage the lipos, depends if they are swollen, and where the damage occurred ( you can easily re-attach wires to the metal cell tabs if they melted off )- pictures?