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Well atleast you got it now. |
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Same here bro. It's not fair that everything is just 50% of the price we have to pay over here...
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no and the people who get it so cheap complains about the price....
Lucky americans:( |
Got the conversion complete as well as some new wheels/tires. I wanted black wheels but everything was out of stock so I decided to get some JConcepts Rulux and mount Pro-Line Badlands on them.
I was going to dye the wheels but I was having a heck of a time finding the RIT dye. According to the 2 Wal-Mart's I went to, they discontinued carrying the dye. I ended up going to a Fabricland and they had none either, but they had a "comparable" product... Unfortunately the nylon wheel wouldn't accept the colour. As soon as you picked up the wheel, the liquid/dye would just bead off. I gave up and said it was good enough how it is (for now). I can't wait for things to dry up here (rain/snow the last week) and get some wheel time on this thing! http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/2120/tentf.jpg |
I had a hard time finding the dye at Walmart myself. I figured it would be in their arts and crafts area, but they pretty much did away with all that stuff. I did finally find the dye in the laundry detergent isle, but I walked past it about 3 times before I seen it.
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Oh well. |
What size center-diff does the Ten-T use...is it standard 1/8 scale?
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Don't want a CD, want to replace it with an Ofna solid-drive.
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The only Ofna solid-drive I know of is the one that comes in the Ultra GTP. It's uses a 51T mod 1.0 setup, so the diameter is far too big (53mm) compared to Mike's 52T 32p spur (42.86mm). The cheapest way to make a sold drive would be to use JBWeld or some very thick substance in the diff to lock it. Of course, it weighs more than a simpler solid setup.
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I have quite a few Ofna solid-drive units as well as a few Ofna Monster Pirate solid-drive slipper-clutches and tons of gears modified to fit them, from 48P, 32P (0.8m) to Mod1, in plastic, Delrin, and steel. I should be able to make something work!
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Still, it would be nice is there was an off-the-shelf option. Using some custom-made parts is nice, but some (like driveline components) can be a PITA to replace/remake.
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How is the 500K oil in the centre Diff working out for those who have made the change? What can I expect? Did it change the handling characteristics a whole lot, braking? Does it send the truck on its spoiler too easily? My front tires turn into pizza cutters immediately with any hard acceleration and would like some insight before I make the change. Brian, hows the 120K oil making out?
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As a basher and "bashing racer" (playing around at the track, but not racing) I generally love thicker oil to reduce or eliminate ballooning and get more power to the ground. 120k does still unload the front, but not nearly as bad as whatever the vehicle came with. I find launches to be quicker, and have not noticed any difference in handling. Then again, my method of cornering is more like powersliding/drifting.
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So does that mean the diff itself is standard 1/8 scale, since those are standard 1/8 scale diff-lockers?
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got the kit... it has kost me 230$ and you just get some screws, and I dont have a clue where to put them, and some places misses screws and junk... i wasted my money..
Mike stop editing my posts!!!! i might be stupid, but i still feel like i wasted my money... and i dont need help... I own this site - I will edit as i see fit. :) Monster Mike |
Save the screws you pulled off the ten-t when you removed the nitro components....the 2biggest screws go into the rcm center diff mount...the 2 skinny long ones go into the top plate of the center diff....and the rest go into securing the battery tray...and the center diff spacer....I know it doesn't come with intructions but the putting the kit together is pretty easy....if your unsure just place the screws that came in the kit into the bottom of the tray and motor mount/top plate before you attach it toyour truck jut to see which screws go where...but don't force any screws in....BC you might strip the holes....oh yeah, and the screws that's in the small black plastic cylindrical shaped piece goes into the motor and it makes adjust gear mesh easier so that now all you have to do is loosen one screw to adj gear mesh....hope this helps....and no, you did not waste your money...mike make top notch stuff...and if something is wrong he will be new than happy to fix it for ya ;)
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hootie thanks:D i have mounted it, and i have had other stuff from mike... that was great... i was /am disappointed with this product.. :(
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Well, provide pics of any parts you are having trouble mounting and we'll tell you where it goes. I imagine it's very close to the kit I got (maybe even some improvements), and it looks and works well.
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Wow! I am reading your post but I don't understand why you are so upset?
-it has kost me 230$ ... I am sure it cost you that much due to shipping, taxes, duty etc... -and you just get some screws... did you not receive the battery tray, strap, diff mount, spur and pinion gear? If not you might have to talk to your mail man as these are all included in the kit (shrink wrapped btw) -and I dont have a clue where to put them... I am sure many here are willing to assist. -and some places misses screws and junk... this was an issue that only some of us were having and it was mentioned a few pages back and if I recall Mike was addressing it. No junk was included with my kit. -i wasted my money... sounds like buyers remorse, sorry, cant help you with that. |
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i did get the things, but when i say "just got some screws" i mean you just get the things and have to guess where hey need to be mounted. But as i said: I have mounted it now and still feels like i wasted some money but F*** it:) |
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Maybe you should have waited and found out more about it before you decided to buy it so you would know what to expect out of it, and how much it was going to cost with the duties/taxes. You have no excuse to be disappointed except your own impatience. |
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but im disappointed and all of you might be very happy... im not, and thats how i feel.. i did expect that it was good since it took about 2 months to make! |
I don't understand. You were happy with all of Mike's other products. I'm quite sure this kit is nothing from the ordinary from Mike, just a little updated.
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You certainly have the right to be disappointed, yet It seems the main complaint is the lack of instructions? It seems you got it together pretty quickly based on your posts in this thread, though. Is there something in particular that has let you down? Are the pictures and product description innaccurate or something else that I can address(aside from the customs fees, which basically doubled the cost of the kit to you)? What improvements would you like to see? Expressing your feelings of discontent is all good and fine, but how about something specific regarding the kit? What "wasn't good" about it specifically?
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Im having a hard time to write what i mean.. easy in danish, but hard in english:(
The main complaints are the screws that "screwed" me up XD and i had expected abit more for the price (without tax)... but nevermind. i have the kit, and its mounted, so f... it. and when i wrote my first post today i had been trying for about ½-1 hour. And about the post editing, i dont see why i wasnt allowed to write that i wasted my money??!! |
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If money was wasted, it was wasted on instant gratification, rather than Mike's kit. Put the blame where it belongs. |
You expressed that you "wasted your money" several times already - just nothing specific. Perhaps you will write it a few more times? The screws "screwed you up" is pretty vague and hard to imagine that it would cause such a reaction. The parts I made require metric screws, which were included. "More for the price" is vague as well - the kit includes everything needed to convert the vehicle - what more would I include? The price is based on the work to make the kit - I don't mass-produce the items in China by the thousand - I actually make them myself in small batches where I have control over the quality, material and also have the ability to update between batches. Without something specific I must assume you don't have much specific to write about, aside from the cost of the kit? The price was established before you made the purchase. Well, thanks for buying the kit and hopefully you can drive it some and get some value out of it - perhaps you will fell less like you "wasted money" after relieving some stress with a good old fashioned rc car driving session. If you think of anything specific I can do to improve the kit, please feel free to express these thoughts. :)
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I purchased 2 kits from Mike in my initial order. I live in the UK and have to pay for International shipping too. I liked the Ten-T conversion so much that I went to order more conversion kits but found only 1 in stock to my disappointment. I did order it anyway.
The kit is not junk - it includes everything to get the conversion going - yes there a couple of screws that I needed to complete were missing but it was no big deal. The battery strap was a bit short - again a double sided velcro strap sorted that out. BrianG photos were easy enough to use as a reference to put the conversion together. I think the kit is simple enough to work out where the screws need to be fitted. After all this is the fun part of the conversion in my opinion. I think the kit is well designed - today I wanted to lock the centre diff and had to only unscrew 4 screws to take the who assembly out. Did not have to move the motor or mess with the gear mesh. So I think Mike has designed the kit well when it comes to maintenance and repair. I agree that at first glance the kit appears 'expensive'. However there is nobody else out there who takes the time to design these motor mounts and kits including custom Delrin spur gears. I asked another chap sometime ago to make me a custom FG motor mount for me and he wanted a minimum order of 20 mounts. I could not afford to pay for 20 mounts. That would have been thousands of dollars. I cannot machine these parts myself so I am sure glad somebody out there like Mike is willing to do it for a reasonable price. So I think considering this - it is only fair that Mike tries to make a living by selling this custom mounts and kits. I am certainly waiting for the Baja conversion and will be happy to pay the asking price. Mohan |
i have to say sorry, i have had a bad day, and im ill.. when those things come together i can get pissed off by anything. the pr*** is ok without coustoms tax, but thats not your problem.
i dont wanna reply to all the posts, but thanks to the people who have tried to help. |
Man, sometimes I'd wish that I'd live in the US. Shipping and taxes can be a real pita and I can understand that it might set / piss you (Moller) off, though of course Mike isn't to blame for that. Also the rising dollar isn't helping making stuff cheaper anymore.
As for Mike, an improvement might be an additional picture of what people can expect to receive when buying the kit, so not mounted. Yesterday I saw an ARTR (except RX and TX) TenT on eBay for just $167.50, unfortunately shipping was $100 (WTF?!) otherwise I would have bought it and would probably ordered Mike's kit... ps. Mike you don't cheat on customs value for your products right? |
My edit doesn't work so a double post : For some reason the seller relisted the item for $225 buy now.
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If it helps, use Bing translator:
http://www.microsofttranslator.com/Default.aspx Actually works quite well :) |
FINALLY my ten-t is running:D or was... took me 1 ½ hour to almost total it XD Battery/esc mounting thing flew out and ripped the esc to reciver wire in half:( So not sure if thats dead... but it drives really well, the suspention is to soft tho... doesnt help that i have 2x 4s 4000mah batteries in it... (have to, to get the 150 amps) that the xerun kind of needs... i hope i can get it running again... ;) Byw. i have running video (not of the crash) should i post it on youtube? or has everbody here got the ten-te ?
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Sorry to hear about the battery/ESC mount coming out. That surprises me as mine has been through some pretty horrific crashes and it stayed put. Did you use all the screw mount points?
BTW: Just because the ESC is capable of delivering 150A doesn't mean you need to have batteries that can do that. The current draw is a function of vehicle, gearing, etc. If geared for the typical ~40mph, one pack is more than enough. I can easily run 40 minutes on a 4s 5000mAh Turnigy pack, which equates to a measly 7.5A average draw, with bursts around 50-60A. That is the equivalent of 1.5C continuous and 12C burst. |
Well it was a huge crash:D a 10-15 meters high steep hill, and gave it a boot full:D
I found out that some of the screws were to small, so took it all apart now, and searching for better ones... there was only one holding the mounting thing, that was still holding on the gold screwy thingy (sorry, have no idea what ist called) so it took me about 1.2 hours to make it better :P I know it doesnt need 150amps but my flightmax 5000mah 20C was hot after abit of time, and i dont wanna take chances with lipo;) |
Hey Moller, I would love to see the video. I haven't had a chance to video mine yet.
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