I feel ya...pretty much all I do is jump and do jump tricks now. My ramp is built to throw the truck up very high (but I still get good distance), which gives me plenty of time to do some insane tricks and get the truck settled for landing, but I don't always land perfectly. I jump up onto the roof of my house pretty often, then jump off, jump over real cars/trucks, jump over smaller buildings, over creeks and ponds, etc., etc.. I usually stay out jumping until I break something, which is almost always an a-arm...you can look closely at pics of my Revo and see where I have repaired broken a-arms (CA the break together, cut a groove with my Dremel, CA a finish-nail into the groove, completely wrap the length of the groove/nail with strong black thread, then soak the thread with CA. The fixed area is actually stronger than the rest of the a-arm). I have a few sets of new a-arms, but because I break them so often, I just keep fixing the broken ones until I can no longer fix it anymore, then replace it.

Ray,

Great build as always ! The thing i can't get out of my head was how big that bastage is!...So you like the new slipper that much huh? I may have to get one...

Thanks and yup, I like the slipper. It's been working great so far and that's with a torquey 1521 1Y on 6S hauling a 14 pound truck.

I think I will go ahead and make the B2201 parts out of CF. I think I have enough 2.5 mm CF to make them. Might even make a vid of how I duplicate aluminum parts on CF.

Chad, I have one word for ya. RPM! Pick up a set of their a-arms, they are much stronger and more flezible than stock. I loved them on my Muggy, and I have them in the Rear of my revo. I'm going to pick up a set of fronts here pretty soon too, I just haven't gotten around too it.

I run Traxxas Extended-Wheelbase arms in the rear, and RPM doesn't make any Extended-Wheelbase rear arms yet, plus I don't like how much RPM arms flex, so I don't run them.

The flex in RPMs arms prevent other things from braking, while still not braking themselves. I would tell you the front are worth getting, as they usually take more abuse than the rear.

I know all about RPM, I have run them on various vehicles, and their flex can also be a bad thing. They can cause bent or broken shock shafts, bent CVDs, bent or broken turnbuckles or pushrods, etc., etc.. Plus, they are even worse for racers, because of their flex...when they flex, it completely messes up your suspension settings and geometry, causing your vehicle to handle poorly.

Anyway, I don't like them, so I don't run them.

Good input. I'll keep that in mind.

WOW! Please do!!! I would love to see how you do this. It would really help a guy like me visualize how to do it. I'm a visual learner. I have to see something done in order to grasp it better.

It would help so much to see what this modified part is you put on your router, that you took from another tool...etc.

jason

Here's the vid on how I make CF parts. It's dark in my garage so I hope you can see well. Geez my French accent really shows in this vid :mdr: Lots of hand porn in this one.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...on_how_to1.jpg

And just for you jpoprock, Here's the adapter I use to fit a 1/8'' shank in a 1/4'' router. You can see the 1/4'' hole of the router made for 1/4'' tools like the one on top and the 1/4'' to 1/8'' adapter to fit 1/8'' shank tools like the Dremel bit on the left.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_adapter1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_adapter2.jpg

Looking at the movie, I realized how annoying the sound of a carbide bit cutting CF is. It's worst than a dentist's drill.

Good vid on that MC. I gotta yell at you for how close you got your finger to that bit a time or two - especially with gloves on.

Great work!!! As usually from you...

I know the fingers get real close sometimes but that's what happens when you make small parts by hand. Of all the parts I made like this, the bit only caught my finger once. :mdr:

WOW WOW WOW! Thank you so much Ray!!! That is awesome!!!! Now I "get it"! I wonder why you chose to cut the piece with the template facing down? Wouldn't it be a little easier if you could see exactly where you were supposed to go? I realize that you're feeling your way thru it, but i would prefer the stock piece facing up so I could see the path.

Also... is it important to wear gloves? Or is that preference? I have a shop vac, but I wonder if you need to buy one of those special dry wall filters for it when sucking up carbon fiber?

I just can't believe how easy this is, now that I've seen it. I'm gonna buy a router table at Harbor Freight now pronto! The next thing I need to work on is the shank. So basically you want to use the smaller 1/8" bits and the shank for small areas, and the 1/4" bit for larger sections. Is that right? I believe that i already have a shank and 1/8" bit for my dremel, but I don't have a 1/4" bit I don't think. I may, since I own a Rotozip tool.

Boy... you've just opened a pandora's box for me!! My wife is going to HATE ME now. HA!!!

Jason

The reason he was doing it upside down was so that the non-cutting portion of the bit was acting as the guide. If you wanted to do it the other way around, you would need a bit with a guide bearing on the end of it - which only come in 1/4" diameter or larger. If you dont have any radii smaller than 1/8'' (half the 1/4" dia) then your fine.

Regarding gloves and power equipment. General rule of thumb is to NEVER wear anything that can get caught in a moving part and pull your body parts into the blade. However, with CF, you have that nasty dust and slivers to contend with. Plus the gloves he had on were more likely to tear than pull - but as close as his finger got a few times, I bet he would have ended up with a nasty little chunk taken out of the finger. Personally, I would do it without gloves, or maybe even try some of those rubber sewing thimbles.

ps. Check your local Craigslist before you go buy a new one. A variable speed router would also be very beneficial for projects like this.