TTT :018:

I swapped out the Neu for a Hacker in my 8ight and ran around the living room for a while... pulling wheelies :030:

On a similar note, I put the Neu in the 777 w/Mtroniks Truck esc... no cogging, not once. The Mtroniks doesn't have a nice slow stat-up... it's kind of jumps from a stop. But it never coggs, let alone kicks backwards like the MM. :mad:1

No cogging at all.... MAN I hope CC can make the Neu run like that.

One more thing I noticed with the MM and Neu... when you just crawl slowly.. it makes a high pitch humm for about 2-3 seconds and then it stops and is smooth as butter. Seemed to do it every time, from a dead stop... start driving real slow and listen. Once it stops this squealing (while still moving slow), it doesn't cog and felt smoother. Weird.

About 1-2 months ago I installed a MM 5700 in my stampede. I had some cogging issues, and upgraded to 8 cell 4500's and was running Deans Ultras. The cogging would happen from time to time, but more importantly I started having radio issues loosing signal.

I just installed a Spektrum since I grabbed one on sale (2 RX plus free ship) and installed that. Heh I started having horrid cogging.

Anyway long story short, I noticed if I roll the motor wires between my fingers where the connectors are they "hook" up again and but after running a bit it would cog when at a standstill. So I disabled reverse in Castlelink ... and dont you know the cogging was eliminated in its entirely.

So the end result (besides a lot of $$ haha) was reverse disable, going to eventually hardwire motor and also better/newer battery.

Hope this helps someone.

We have found that hardwiring helps a lot. Basicly the 4mm conns are crap. I have not tried the 5mm or 6mm beefy connectors but my guess is they would also be much better than the stockers. I just hardwired finally.... it's a no-cost mod. :)

MM5700 glitching
 

Just to follow up I hardwired by mm5700 and the glitching was eliminated in the entirety.

Thanks.

Nice!...

Good to know! I have 6mm connectors and 12g wire but have yet to assemble & test it. When I do I'll give you guys an update.

The hard wiring does help. I temporarily went back to 6mm connectors, while I'm trying to figure things out with my setup, but when I settle on a motor/esc combo, I'm going to go back to hard wiring.

The 6mm connectors are nice, but they are still connectors. Some are tighter than others. Connectors are also prone to developing some sort of coating on them that over time adds resistance to the system. I'm going back to hard wiring because it simply takes one more variable out of the system and is just one less thing to worry about.

There is a chemical the ensure ultra low resistance. It's used in hi-end audio to maintain "state-of-the-mind" performance.

I think the chemical is called "TWEAK".

I'd have to search for it. It might be worth trying since its intent is to eliminate voltage drops due to corrosion and not-quite-perfectly-tight" connections.

I do have this "grease" although it appears to be more of a gel, that is supposed to promote conductivity and prevent corrosion, but I'd rather just not have to worry about it. Hard soldering does't take long anyway. The only real draw back is that my spare setup will now have to consist of a motor and esc as one unit for quick swaps at the track. The spare is just going to have to wait.

TWEAK is a clean clear liquid. Looks like superglue actually.

I also have a copper anti-corrosion paste for electrical connections and use in on my car (full size). I'm not sure if it's characteristics would be ideal for hi-amp brushless systems or not. I'll have to look into that.

Ok here is my problem. when i do speed runs my car glitches its like everything shuts down and kicks back on real fast its like losing signal and gaining it right away. i have my motor connected with 6mm bullet connecters and the motor is a feigeo 380 6l and im running a max amps 8000hv 3s lipo but it doesnt matter what battery or radio i use it always does it. i was thinking it may be because of the aluminum idler running against the steel top shaft. now im seeing this is common so how can i fix it?

Try cleaning and reassembling the 6mm connectors. Make sure the connection is very secure!

Serum said his loosened up with use which makes brushless systems go absolutely nuts!

try running an external bec. I was having this problem with the MM too, until I went with the external bec. I don't have any technical details to refer too, but I suspect that the internal bec on the MM isn't the greatest. I believe that what you perceive the be glitching is the internal bec cutting current to the radio for a split second, the rest of the non response time is due to the radio rebooting. Try the external bec. The one that Mike sells is nice, but if you are on a budget, there are a bunch of linear becs that can be had for $10-$15.

ok ill clean them would it be ok to use electric grease also to help connection i know it works great for towing trailer plugs

I've never tried it on brushless connections and I'd be hesitant to do so.

Try electronic connection cleaner (similar to tuner cleaner) and wiping with a cotton cloth. available at Radio Shack or a quality electronic parts supplier (McMaster also sells it).