Well I can't believe it, even tower has them in stock.
Its a shame my vendor can't supply my backorder yet.
Just rereading the first post that was a month ago...

ive got my first v2 today....and it pass the first test....15min off hard speed run in the street!!!!:whip:

i was on 4 cell
feigao 9l
e-revo
neuenergy 5000mah

for now work like a champ:party:

keep my finger crossed:yes:

WOW!!! I finally made it!!! I read every post in this thread, mind you it only took me 4 hrs.

Now for my input, I sent back one of my V1's for repair around mid July & got it back mid August. Still haven't laid eyes on my order of 6(!) from FD ripoff thieving bastards which was placed on 31st May.

Also, being stuck in Sydney after my op, I also haven't laid eyes on my returned MM! Can 12th Sept come round any quicker?

Also, still got 1 brand spankin new V1 only soldered the plugs on & still hasn't been used, sitting at home.


Post #403 ooohhhh yyeeaahhhhh. :lol:

ugggh.....has anyone else had problems soldering the battery leads to deans plugs? I cant get my Hako to melt the solder they have on the wire. I've had it on high, and set it on the wire for up to 5 minutes, and got NO molten solder. Just to check my iron, I soldered up a deans to one of my Deans wires, and it worked fine.

Chop off their pre tinned ends. I assume it is the lead free solder they are using that makes it hard to solder. I busted out my 80 watt iron and it did the trick but that stuff is a pain.

Did you disconnect from MMM - Those huge wires act as great heatsinks

I think they use lead free solder, seems to take a bit more heat. I managed to get it by feeding a little more solder into the wire.

Yes, they were disconnected - I'll just snip off the ends and start from scratch. Does this mean that I should re-do the bullets (is there a compatibility issue with my solder and theirs that would cause a continuity issue?). BTW, speaking of soldering the bullets - I read about how people filled the cup with solder, then stuck the wire in. My bullets have 2 holes in them, so filling them was not really an option. However, I drilled my hole in the workbench a little deeper, so that the holes were covered and filled it that way.

No need to touch the bullets...

Or if you dont want to snip the ends try melting some other solder onto it, in my experience diluting it a little helps a lot.

i tried and failed with their solder. just ended up cutting my ends off and redoing it, as stated above

In my current setup the bullet configuration causes the wires to push up on my body slightly. I think I'm going to re-solder the wires to the sides of the bullets at an angle instead of inside of them.

I'm still on a v2.0 with about 15 minutes on it.. I'm supposed to be racing tomorrow but I don't know if that's going to happen :(

-Jeff

the thicker the gauge of wire the more heat, flux and skill you need. A good 100+ watt soldering iron is a good investment.

I got mine done - clipped off the ends, and redid them with my solder. Took the MMM/10L up and down the street a couple times, and it operates as described.....just need to get some fresh packs in it to really test. I am REALLY unhappy with the lack of screw down holes. I hate the zip tie messy look.

Just got my v2 MMM yesterday!!!

Thanks Mike....

Should i direct solder mine, or do i need to get 6.5mm bullets? my MMM didnt come with any male bullets, the MMM HAS female 6.5mm bullets installed on the MMM, but no males???

It came with 3 motor wires 6" long, an 2 battery wires 6" long, stickers, a cd, a usb wire and chip to plug the MMM to the usb, but there isnt any bullet plugs...

My hobby shop has 4mm bullets , but no 6.5mm bullets, will the 4mm bullets work to conect the motor to the esc wires?

I read some post that said only 6.5mm or dirct solder is to be used/done on the MMM...

The wire's don't have male bullets on them on one end? Mine did, and the only thing I had to solder was my choice of ends to connect the motor (I used 6mm bullets for that). I did attempt to use 4mm, but the wire wouldn't fit into the socket on the bullet.

As did all of mine..

use double sided tape :P

Personally I prefer cable ties combined with double sided tape over any screw mounts.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3088/...2f27b10ddc.jpg

ah its good to see patrick and co are RoHS compliant. green manufacturing, the way of the future. yes that lead free solder is a royal pain to work with without the right tools/ solder iron. i just gave mine to one of the shop guys and hey presto...all soldered. TBH if i was to do it, i would have used the leaded solder, i am very impatient.

123.

Cheater.....!!!!!

:lol:

you know the thing i dont get is
My solder wouldnt blend with theres...mines lead free 96/4

but it works fine by itself:neutral:

i resemble that remark. however we have irons that melt it in nanoseconds, they are the metcal irons try circa $1000 an iron and $100 a tip !!! nah i will spend my cash on lipos after all i spent 7 years soldering and dont do it unless i have to. my V2 is humming away nicely, love the funky sounds on boot up. am i the only one who gets nervous when soldering the connectors on the li-pos?

long live the MMM:yes:

123.

no theres no males soldered on any of the wires, both sides of the wires are tinned..

i tryed a set of 4mm's an crap is the tinned solder hard to melt, i had a friend try to put on the 4mm's and no luck, my 80-120watt gun needed a new tip, try or 30mins..:whistle::oops:

ill just get some 6mm's or 6.5mm's and have the hobby shop down the road put them on, as it probley only takes the 5mis..:yipi::gasp:

im going to use 2 screews to hold down my MMM to my RCPD top plate
and also use 2 zipties just incase...

Any news about percentage of dead MMM v2?

9% i guest.....

80(more at this time)unit died on 3000 made

That only makes 2.6%

My MMMv2.0 BEC outputs 6.05v. I assume they changed the bec from 5.5 to 6.0v when they designed the v2?

-Jeff

i know...it why ive wrote 9%because now its really 9%:lol:

6.05 volt unloaded, voltage may drop under load even if there is a regulation

Patrick, your pm box is full.

Anyway, here's my message.

The replacement V2 which was shipped on Aug 28 and received last Friday, Sep 5th is dead. I started a thread about it under CC forum.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14844

Anyway, I want to know if it's okay with you to do the BrianG mod and run it with my rx pack without voiding the warranty if something worse will happen. I know some forum members were given the go-ahead to do the mod without voiding the warranty since the MMM is not working naymore.

My V2 puts out 6.0v and my V1 put out 5.42v. I definitly think it has been changed from the origianal 5.5V standard.

Yep , i put the volt meter to my v2 MMM and im seeing 6.0v on the MMM's bec...

With my MMM plugged in & my Futaba Digital S9351 servo plugged into my Futaba 2.4Gh 6ch Rx i am seeing 6v-5.95v, an when turning the steering servo to full lock(left or right), im seeing 6v-5.9v...

Now just for 0.2-0.5sec it drops to 5.8-5.75v when turning, but thats when the servo first moves under a Heavy load / my hand pushing down on the frontend an holding it down, but after 0.2-0.5sec it goes right back up too 5.8v-5.9v even while still loaded up / me pushing down on the frontend....

So the lowwest the new v2 MMM's bec drops is 5.75v, Under a Heavy Load.

I might have to get a MMMv2 and test the BEC like some of the other tests I do. Curious about efficiency, noise, etc...

If you can get it to last long enought to test.:whistle: lol

OK, let me re-phrase that to " I might have to get a stable MMMv2 and test the BEC like some of the other tests I do. Curious about efficiency, noise, etc..."

I'm a whopping 30 min or so into my 2nd v2.

Mamba Max Monster V2 dead after quiet 10 minutes first run. sounds like dead UBEC...

No broken servos, no broken motor, no broken anything, since I put back my old ESC and everything is working good as it was before MMMv2

Running 6S Lipo

Sent email to cc... waiting....waiting...waiting....

more to come.. :(

I gave CC a call today, and the Nice lady (Morgan) said that she would give tech my info and they would contact me. She said that CC wants to individually address each V2 failure in order to get a better idea what the root problem is.

Yeah, we are all a bunch of lab rats... and we pay for it ;)