by plates i mean 2 rectangle plates that the motor mount mounts to and then the plates bolt to the chassis. like a tekno setup. that is how i did my mount. this way the plates are slotted for gear mesh adjustability and also i built them in a way that by reversing the plates i can use either a RCM pinion or flip them around and use the longer sdp 12t pinion. using plates allows the most versatility imo but then again its what i am use to since all my conversion are tekno kits. i will post pics tonight.

as for the batteries i just used 2 RCM trays and mounted on each side of chassis as close to center as possible. what options are you considering for mounting yours?

Well here is my Jim Williams mount. It is a little different that I thought. What I will probably do is sandwich each horizontal slot between 2
L- brackets. Then the L-brackets will be bolted to the chassis. This way I can move the mount for pinion changes with out cutting a big hole in the chassis.
http://mysite.verizon.net/tbtjsnyder/motormount.JPG
I though the mount mounting screw would thread up into the bottom of the plate...by bottom I mean the surface that sits on the chassis.

I was probably going to use some stick on velcro pieces and velcro cinch straps.

it looks alot nicer than in the pics on the website. i thought what you did though. that holes were in the bottom and you just bolted it up to the chassis. but the L plates is a good idea.

I just made (8) L-brackets out of some 3/16 aluminum flat stock I had laying around.

Looks good, love the shine...

kaz,
have you tried mounting the motor up with that mount yet? i was looking at it a bit closer and am now wondering how you are going to make it work. because the mount sits the motor so high off the chassis you will have to move the motor in real close to be able to get your gear mesh. but you wont be able to do this it seems cuz the mount is so wide also and it will hit into the driveline or center diff mounts. my mount is only 2.5mm wider than the motor itself and it sits very close to the driveline. i am sure there is a way to make that mount work so i am just wondering if you have run into these issues and what you are planning to do to make it work. i guess you could notch the side of the mount just large enough for the driveline to go through it without touching it. anyway, am i seeing things right or does it just appear larger than it is?

I don't know. Hopefully tonight I will put the center drive line back in.

We shall see...

The 40T spur requires grinding of the top plate...chassis fits fine though.

I had to slot the motor mount for the front drive shaft...now it isn't pretty anymore...

yeah the stock top plate has to be opened up a bit to fit over the 40t spur. its good though that slotting the mount at least worked. it should be strong still with as wide as the base is of that mount.

I hope so. I had to take more out than I wanted to...

I'm going to mount my motor in place of the stock radio box also. That is probably the best way. Otherwise it would be too tight with both batteries on both side.

I'm going to make another front chassis plate out of an old street sign that I have laying around. That is thinner than stock but I
think it will hold.

I broke my dremel this morning....

I got the screw on thing that goes over the mandrel stuck on the shaft. I couldn't get it off so I took it apart so I would have more to grab onto. When I put it together and turned it on it let out the magic smoke... I was not happy...

Well I got the motor all mounted up. The gear mesh may be a wee bit tight but I think it will wear in.

Are there instructions for the Integy brakes? Mine didn't come with any.

mine didnt come with any either. but here is what i am planning on doing. the actual calipers mount up pretty easy to the stock plastic hubs on both the front and the rear. you just have to use your dremel and make the round part of the hub completely level so the caliper sits flush around it. it is curved normally. then i ran the cables around the front of the car and through the front shock tower. the tubing over the cable is the perfect length to run from the caliper to that little part that has the 2 holes for the cable tubing that can be mounted. i am mounting that part on the front top plate. this is where you may have to make a new top plate or something. anyway, i am just mounting it to my carbon top plate and then that holds the tubing in place. thats as far as i have got so far. next i need to figure out how to secure the cable to the brake servo or attach them to one of those rods. i have a magazine that has some pics of a baja with integy brakes on it but they arent great shots. i was gonna refer to that to see if that would help or i thought about calling integy for instructions. the other thing is that the cables are perfect length for front brakes but not long enough for rear brakes so i was thinking of going to a bike store and getting some brake cable that is longer since thats all the integy brakes are anyway.

idk, let me know what ideas you have for mounting the brakes and whats working. as i mentioned before right now all my alu. hubs are at the shop so my guy can do some welding and make them suitable to mount the integy brakes to them. the plastic ones werent to hard to drill and get them mounted but i wanted to use alu. parts and they are different than the stock ones so i have to adapt them.

also, the carbon discs are 24mm instead of 22mm of course. i measured the carbon and it is 2mm so i ordered some 2mm carbon sheet that i got last week or so. its pretty cheap on ebay from da-grahpite. and they make some of the best carbon. so i am gonna cut out 22mm hex carbon discs so that they fit right. i will just use my dremel for this.

its too bad that they just dont make a disc brake kit for the rampage. there should be one since there is for many of the other popular 1/5s.

oh btw, sorry to hear about the dremel. dont buy another dremel brand one for $70+. i have both a dremel and a black and decker rotary tool (looks like a dremel and use everything the same) that i got both at walmart and the black and decker is WAY better, tougher, spins truer and i cant remember if it was $25 or $40 but somwhere in that range. thats what i would get if you need to replace it. its right by the dremels at walmart.

I'm hoping I can finger it out when I take all the parts out of the packages.

Next payday I am going to get a no name dremel from Harbor Freight Tools. They have a store in the next county north of me.

It is deffinately a son of a bitch to get to all the motor mounting bolts...

pics damnit! lol

you want pics??
 

you want pics? i got pics. tonight i was able to get some more work done and FINALLY got the motor mounted. so here are some pics of the process and then also some pics of all the brake parts for any opinions y'all might have about how best to run the brake lines.

first, used a sharpie to mark up my drill holes.

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here are the motor mount plates mounted to the chassis. using plates allows you to remove and replace the motor without losing your gear mesh

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so here is the motor mounted up. as you can see it is a close fit, but then again who doesnt like a tight fit?:wink: right now i have 15/40 on but the 12t pinion fits also.

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here is the mounted plates from the bottom of the chassis. i didnt have any 5mm button head screws, which is what is supposed to be used to screw the mount to the plates, so i just used some 5mm flathead for the sake of getting some pics. as you can see its just like a tekno motor mount setup. unfortunately i put the forward slot a bit too close to the forward screw but it still works fine.

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here is a 60mm fan i got for the motor but may just use a 40mm fan since it will sit right inside the square hole on top and provide enough cooling.

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and as you can see despite the tight fit everything still turns freely.woohoo!


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now for the brakes
 

ok so here are some pics of the brakes although i havent started on them yet.

here is one caliper i mounted just to see how it would work. they work amazingly to be honest. its gonna stop on a dime with 4 of these. you can see where i just drilled through the hub to mount the calipers just as Kaz had explained.

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here is how i plan to run the cable and tubing. for both the front and back this should work to run the cable through the shock tower.

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then this little part will need to be mounted on the front and rear top plates respectively to hold the cables in place and direct the cable toward the brake servo.

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anyway, that is my plan but the only issue i may have is how to securely mount the cables to the servo arm, or to a rod which then connects to the servo arm. i plan to use a full servo arm and have the front brakes connect to one side and the rears to the other so that all 4 brakes are applied when the servo is actuated. here is a pic of all the parts in the integy disc brake set. perhaps someone can explain how all the parts are used when put on the baja. actually, thats not all the parts. the long connecting rod isnt in pic. that is my main question really. how is the cable attached to the connecting rod? in a special issue of "Radio Control Car Action" called "Desert and Off Road" there is a feature on a custom baja and it has the integy brakes with some "minor mods" made to it. it looks real nice but there is only one pic really where you can slightly see the setup. i am trying to see exactly how the system was ran.

<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01255.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01255.jpg" border="0" alt="redcat33"></a>

figured out the brakes
 

ok so i figured out the brakes. the pics are self explanatory. i just kinda jerry rigged everything to demonstrate how the brakes could be setup. i plan to do a few mods to the system but overall the is the idea.

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I see. So the little piece that the cable ends attach to isn't mounted on anything? It just floats on the rod?

i think in the baja that part sits on something but not sure. when the system is setup and everything pulled tight i dont think it will sag much at all. but thats what i want to do is come up with some way to link the cable and rods without that heavy little piece. the setup on that baja in the issues of RCCA i mentioned is really clean. youll have to check it out.

Yeah I think it would be better to mount it on something.

Do the cables interfere with the motor mount or anything?

Did you have to grind the corner of the bracket where the cable mounts or the hub to get full steering throw?

i didnt grind anything on the brakes or the hub and they seem just fine. but since day one i have been kinda disappointed with the amount of throw the rampage has. i am wondering how sharp it is going to turn. anyway, i mounted the calibers on the side of the hub toward the front of the car and that seemed to work fine. at least i havent noticed it hitting into anything.

Well there is almost no throw with out grinding.

The steering throw is really bad with the big MT tires but not bad with Baja rears all around.

Integy tech support sent me a bunch of photos of the brakes installed on a Baja inresponse to my request for instructions. They are also going to give me a "special discount code" for my next order.

can you forward those photos to me?

are you saying there is no throw with just the stock setup or are you saying there is no throw once you put the brakes on?

No throw when you put the brakes on. I got it fixed though with a little grinding.

I got the brakes all hooked up. The piece that brings the 2 cables together needs to be shimmed up to the level of the servo horn. I am going to add some flat stock to my new front plate when I make it. I hope to work on that tomorrow morning.

I forwarded those pics.

ok isee what you mean, youre right. not that i am home i can look at it and yeah the caliper hits the spindle carrier. i never noticed before cuz for one i havent spent any time on that yet really but also i dont have my steering turnbuckles hooked up so the front wheels just kinda flop around right now. glad that just a little grinding fixes it though.

i bought some of this nylon tubing. got this idea from that baja in RCCA i was telling you about. i wish i had some pics to show you but it looks really clean cuz the tubing is so small and its much more flexible so it is easier to feed it to where you want it to go i think. its cheap so i ordered some to see if i will like it or not for the tubing around the brake cables.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/cat...ame=119&Page=1

You got that to encase the cable in instead of the tubing that came with the brakes?

I discovered that you don't need to make a new front plate...just flip the stock one over.

The shorter brake rod will have to be cut down a lot. I'm also going to flip the brake servo around to the output shaft wil be to the rear.

yeah, the new tubing is to encase the cables....at least to try and see how it works. i may stick with the tubing they came with.

are you saying flip the front plate over so that to move the chassis brace over a bit or for some other reason?

Yeah, flip it over so the brace is out of the way of the motor mount.

yeah i had considered doing that but because the plate is countersunk on one side i wanted to make my own part.

anyway, i had a question for you. have you ever ran baja wheels and tires? if so, how do they compare to the stock ramp set and how much was speed affected due to the smaller size?

i am contemplating getting some baja wheels and tires just because then i have more options but they look small on the ramp after seeing the stock ones on. plus, if i run baja wheels then i dont have to make new brake discs and can just use the 24mm discs the integy set came with. not sure what i will do yet. wanted some input.

I went from the HUGE MT tires to Baja rear Bow-Ties all around.

i think that if you ran the numbers through the speed calculator you would loose some speed but the 5 pound weight savings more than makes up for it.

I Like the Baja wheels.

can you post a pic of your truck with the baja wheels/tires on it? or email me a pic. i really want the badlands but i want to see how it looks before i drop $150 on tires.

I'll try to get one today but I have to go to work later.

I think the Badlands are the smallest of the 1/5 scale Baja tires.

update! ppppllleeeaaassseee!!!!!!!!!!!!:yes:

sorry man. i know this project is slow going. i wish i had it done. i cant wait to get it finished. i really dont have a lot left to do. its all just little tedious stuff now. anyway, last night i made the carbon center top plate. it will hold the esc and rx. i am kinda pissed though. i wanted to mount the esc box length wise down the chassis over the rear drive shaft. unfortunately, the box is a little too wide to do this as i cannot easily get my batteries in and out if i do. so i had to mount it sideways instead. this still works but doesnt look as nice imo. i even looked at using the other box i had that is smaller but it just isnt as practical as the larger esc box i have. the larger box fits my esc and rx, has room to breathe, mount fans, and is water-proofable. the smaller box doesnt do any of these things. here are some pics:

<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01384.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01384.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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here are a couple pics of the smaller box that fits down the center between the batteries but really isnt usable.

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Wow, that's awesome, perfect fit too.

aqwut's kicking your ass..... I'm just saying:whistle:

Just been eyeballing your brake setup, very interesting. I would have used 2 servos, one for the front brakes and 1 for the rear. I would mix them using the dedicated brake mix on my m11 radio. It has a specail setup 4th channel that is slaved to the 2nd channel, that way i could adjust brake balance front to rear on the fly via the radio. Just a thought.

I do like those cable brakes, looks very solid, and should stop the beast well.

yeah, yeah, yeah he is kicking my ass for sure. i am sure kaz has been out playing with his too. but dont you worry. all this work by other guys has motivated me to kick it into high gear. i promise you will see some additional work done this weekend with some pics and perhaps some vid. oh, and trust me, the "Rampaja" will certainly testify to my lengthy build time. :yipi:

i must say it has been a lot of fun talking with and watching aqwut and kaz build their rampages also. i think we will see more of these continually. i think once there are some vids of all ours online running and bashing people will see that for a 1/5 conversion the Rampage is probably the best candidate in terms of price, ease of build, and performance due to the 4wd. the durability would be the only drawback i think for some but much has improved in that dept. and personally i have been able to use so many MCD and HPI parts on my Rampage that durability shouldnt be an issue.

but, keep kicking me in the ass to get it done. i have definitely slacked off the last few weeks.

that is a good idea. i have thought about getting the m11 or 4pk radio so that i could have 4 channels but i think i will just stick with my spektrum for now. and these brakes do have amazing stopping power. they should work well. i will try and get a video up soon.