Hey Linc, how goes it?
Just wondering how the batteries are going? I know you got the A123's done just wondering about the 5s Zippy's you were knocking down to 4s for me. Also don't forget to add in the 20Xl motor.
thanks man

Whoops, guess i forgot to reply to your last PM... Sorry about that, you hoser:mdr:

I have wired the a123 packs, just need to shrink them. Will pull the zippies apart tomorrow afternoon and get them ready, much easier and quicker to do lipo stuff... Should have all of those done then, will post pics of the finished results and get them in the mail by the weekend for you. And I have the 20xl set aside too.

Do you want deans females on the a123 packs? Did not specify in your instructions...

James

Linc, or anyone....

Has anyone taken apart the TrueRC Hardcase LiPo Pack yet?

I think one of my cells MAY have puffed... As it was a bit lumpy, on the top, barely, like, 1mm over in the center, and I'm OCD, so I'm scared as shit.

I think it was Mr. Spongebob Avatar, something pede? :whistle:
Who had one, and got his balancer plug stuck in, so I'm assuming he opened it?

Sorry, can't remember your name! :oh:

Anyways, someone... help?

No idea, never had my hands on one of those packs.

Awww, damn.

How are most of the hardcased you handled configured?

I tried taking one apart..... Smelled like lead, so I put it back together.. :lol:

Not sure I understand. Some are 1p, some are 2p. Usually the case is lightly glued around the edges.

NEW TrueRC 5000mAh 20C 7.4V 2S2P pack

Off TrueRC's site...

Wait, doesn't that mean it's 4 cells?
wtf, I'm retarded.

Yep, uses 4 2500 cells. Ahh, a 2p pack having issues...

Hmm, never thought of that...

I'll email him, I opened it like a couple cm's, and it wouldn't budge anymore, so I didn't do it.
TrueRC won't tell me how to open it... Maybe if I tell them it might be puffed and my life might be endangered.. :lol:

Anyways, are they just loose packs, with bullet connectors on the tips, or is it glued in? :oops:

Ehee Linc, still working on my lipos :D:D. U can keep 'em.. Not worth much money I suppose?

Linc, after I felt the top of my hardcase a little lumpy, I tossed them in my icepack, it's like a long medical ice pack, that I keep in a shopping bag.

I wrapped it around the lipo for about an hour or two.

It was quite cold when I pulled it out (I left it on my table in room temp), it wasn't a lump much.

How do puffed lipos act, if you charge em up, they shouldn't hold right? How fast do they drop? What should I be looking out for?

Right now, I'm charging them at 1A, and they're 2 Cell, 5000mAh packs.
So 4A less 1C..

Is this a good idea?

Charge them all the way up, write down the voltages and let them sit for 24hrs. If the voltage drops evenly between the cells you are good to run them. Go easy for the first run and see if it puffs. If not try a little harder. After a few runs you will be able to tell if they are ok or not. Check the voltage of the cells after the run when they cool down. If they are way out of balance you most likely have a bad cell or 2...

Damn...
Okay, will do.

Thanks Linc...

how would you get solder to stick to alloy tabs??? I'v tryed the basic elc flux that RS sells with no luck:diablo:

note to self, pliers, and the soldering iron cunduct elc:gasp: damn those were some BIG sparks:gasp::surprised:

:rofl::lol:

What'd you do with the soldering iron and pliers....

I've GOT to hear this one.. :yes:
Change out your undies then tell us, yes? :intello:

You're gonna need special flux that is made to stick to aluminum. Problem is that stuff is VERY stinky and must be wiped off your iron's tip quickly to prevent excessive wear.

Look at "ZINCFLUX" and "ZINCSOLDER":
http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/mai...=bldg#ZINCFLUX

had to get the tabs off the board on a zippy with a bad cell:no:


not as bad as when I converted a PC power suppley for Rc... them caps hurt:cry::cry:

thanks

que?

The caps hurt ya when you converted? Oh god...

What did you do, so I can avoid it?
You're my guinea pig:yes:

Charged caps > human skin = tazered. I've done it myself converting a disposable camera into a cattle prod... :whistle:

Ya Deans on everything thanks.
Sorry so long to reply, been away

No prob, will do that and get everything in the mail tomorrow afternoon. I will post some pics before I package. The blue shrink you sent will be a bit big on the zippy packs, can I use some black that I have?

I will pm you when I am done.

Sure can use the black. I actually sent the blue for the A123's and whatever extra was a token of my appreciation:love: don't be gettin' all choked up

Hey Linc, If you haven't put the Deans on the A123's can you add a short lead of 18Gauge or similar to the main leads. One on pos one on neg.

I want to use them for a "No Spark" setup. If you've already done the connectors or don't have any small gauge wire don't worry about it.
Hey you could even use some cut offs from balance leads if you have any.

I'm sure you know what I'm goin for but if not
http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_nospark.html click on diagram for Deans.

Thanks man

I can do that, I do not have any small connectors to put on the wires, but I am sure that you can do that.

just not you can't do a no spark with a MMM

It hurts. I got tazed with a tazer working on the spud gun. Sure woke me up...:sleep::whip::lol:

Yep, very true Chris. Not sure what esc he plans to run. Good to consult the esc manufacturer before doing anything.

Cool thanks. I have some mini Deans sitting here I'm going to use.
thanks

It's a Turnigy 80Hv Marine esc. It already has the lead with a resistor for a "No Spark" just need to do connectors on the pack side. If I were using Bullets the additional leads wouldn't be needed.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/g...n/102_2289.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/g...n/102_2290.jpg

Ok, so you just hook the main pos lead up to the batt and then use the smaller neg wire to charge the caps? So you only need a small wire coming of the neg side of the a123 packs? Or do you want a wire coming off both neg and pos?

I have not shrank the a123 packs yet, so I will wait till you reply!

Has to be small lead off both main leads because I'm using deans 2" should do me.
check here look at Deans diagram
http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_nospark.html
if I were using bullets I would just hook up the Pos lead and the small black lead to charge the caps then the Neg lead to run.

Ok, soldering them right now...

Ok, here 2 of the 5s a123 packs... I put 2 layers of shrink on them, as you sent me a ton of it, and I think it will protect them better. And the small charge wires are visible as well. I put them off the cells, not the main plug, as it will be easier to change the main plug if you ever need to.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF3664.jpg

Lookin' good.
Double wrapin' to keep things safe is always a good idea, as I'm sure you know in your line of work Pimp.
Actually single wrap will work better for me so the packs can sit closer together in my Raptor e550 as it's already a tight fit. Thanks for lookin out for your favorite battery cells though.

Awesome job and I know you loved every minute of it.
Thanks

By closer together I'm thinking like this
.OOOOO=
OOOOO=


Offset would be the word I'm lookin for

Got that right...:lol:

I will send you a pm later about shipping and what-not... Time to go home, my head cold is not getting any better...:sleep:

Sounds Good. Feel better guy.

Here ya go Linc, spent the better half of about an hour working on the graph with my head throbbing...

From the looks... Pack #1 seems to be doing a lot better than #2, but does the #2 pack appear to be..... puffed from the data?

Does not look too bad to me. Has either pack physically puffed again? Puffed, then goner down? What lvc are you running to. I would be more worried about the fact you got 4400mah back in one pack and 4530 in the other...