:rofl:

I wish my friends would call UPS brown boy......
And my dad be like you. :whistle:

The LiFePo4 were new right?
...I thought they came from HongKong/China....

Man I suck at geography. Yes they came from China.

I put my new lifepo4 Turnigys on the CBA analyzer and this is what came out.

LiFePO4 1:
Discharge rate: 9.60 A
Starting voltage: 10.30 V
Ending voltage: 7.30 V
Total time: 26 minutes 49 seconds
Tested capacity: 4586 mah

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._3s_4500_1.jpg

LiFePO4 2:
Discharge rate: 9.60 A
Starting voltage: 10.40 V
Ending voltage: 7.30 V
Total time: 25 minutes 41 seconds
Tested capacity: 4105 mah

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._3s_4500_2.jpg

And the two graphs overlay ed

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...0_overlay1.jpg

There's a small difference in the two as far as run time and capacity. I will analyze these packs again after they have a few cycles through them to see if they get better.

*Facepalm*
I need to go back to school.. It's been too long, I guess I wasn't thinking, nevermind..
I'mmmmmmmm an idiot.

No you're not.

Some bashing this morning with the new 3S lifepo4 Turnigys. It's pretty much like running 5S lipo. But unlike lipo, the discharge curve of the lifepo is more progressive close to the end of the cycle. I mean that the packs don't dump suddenly like my lipos do. So after about 8 minutes (I didn't time it precisely) the power started to be less, like 4S for about a minute. Then it started to drop down even more, that's when I brought the truck back. The packs were slightly warm to the touch. Back on the charger, my CellPro showed 10% charge left. My lipos give me full power until the LVC kicks in and when I put them on the charger, they show 2 or 3% charge left in them.
Personally, I wouldn't use these lifepo for racing, I would rather have full power through the whole discharge that lipos give. But for bashing and having fun, the lifepo is awesome. No LVC, no puffing, recharge very quickly at very high rates and tough as nails.

One last thing, the water proofness of the ESC and servo proved to be excellent again and the double party balloon on the batteries kept them bone dry again.

I mounted those Mashers on the Axial wheels. I also put a little paint in the recesses of the wheels to give it a unique look. My F0rd F650 body will be red so I have a set of wheels with red accents and my son's F650 will be blue so a set with blue accents for him.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_mashers2.jpg

The tires and wheels/tires are big. At 420 grams each, they are going to be the biggest and heaviest wheels/tires I have evr used on my ERBE. But I think they look sweet. Real Monster Truck like.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_mashers1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_mashers3.jpg

My son's wheels are going to look even better because they have blue accents which will match the blue hue in the chrome from the Ofna adapters.

Real Purty Mr.C !
That boy of your is lucky to have an Ol' man to spoil him like you do !

And here I am spoiling my Dad with his own E-Revo and Supermaxx... :(

The Proline Ford F650 bodies are finally done. I hate painting bodies so the paint scheme is very simple. So right now the bodies are mounted on the trucks very low. I like it like that. My F650 body is red and my son's F650 body is blue.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ord_f650_7.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ord_f650_6.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ord_f650_5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ord_f650_4.jpg

You probably noticed that there are no bumpers. These bodies are long and the stock ERBE bumpers almost fit inside. I don't want to cut the bodies too much to fit around the stock bumpers. I could just raise the body posts and have the bodies fit over the bumpers but I really like the low slung look. I'm thinking of maybe making a couple plates out of Kydex that would screw on the bumper mounts and support the body from the inside? To install the stock bumpers, I could use some long spacers and longer screws but the bumpers would be poking out of the front grill and tail gate. I don't think it would look to good. I'll have to think about what I'm gonna do.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_f650_2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_f650_1.jpg

the bodies look great! finally someone else who likes the low slung look like me,it seems as though other people like the look of straight axle truck height by raising the body but dont get it isnt the same as a true "monster truck".as for bumpers i used flat pieces of alu. screwed to the skids.simple yet effective--josh

That's a good idea. I'll remember that. Thanks.

Very nice MC, I like 'em both!

UPDATE ON WATER PROOFNESS

I did the same water proofing procedure I did on my ERBE to my son's GERBE. Using the same Tremclad clear stuff on the ESC and servo. After I ran a set of packs in my ERBE (still ran great with no problems with water or snow) I ran a set of packs in my son's GERBE to test it and it ran just as well as my truck. This Tremclad stuff really seems to work very well in keeping the MMM and servo innards dry. I'm very happy with it. And I love those 40 series Mashers. They're big and look cool.

What is the Tremclad stuff you speak of? And where can you get it?

I have pics of the can in this post

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...&postcount=424

It's a clear coat that prevents weathering and tarnishing of metals like brass, steel, aluminum, copper and other. It sticks to everything I tried it on, even Lexan. It dries fairly quickly and becomes very hard and tough. It's liquid like water so it gets into every little nook and cranny of the circuit boards of the ESC and seals every part of it. Using this to water proof your MMM will probably void the warranty, I never contacted Castle Creations to ask them about that, I just did it because I wanted to play in the snow.

Tremclad products can be found anywhere in hardware stores.

Have you noticed any differences in temps since you put thet stuff on the esc?

No difference in temps. The heat sink is intact because I taped it before spraying so it's doing its job of dissipating heat just as it did before.

MrC can I use the longer front shock springs that came as extra parts in the rear shocks?They seem to be longer.

I don't see why not. I can't even remember that there was extra spring in my ERBE box when I first got it. If they are longer than you might just have to adjust the preload collars to have the desired ride height.

All the shocks springs are the same length, just different weights.

And there you go, thanks Chad.

Yea right.The the way I see this it that the springs on the right go in the front shocks and they are in fact a little longer and have more coils.

The extra length is nothing more than the spring being a different weight, with a different thickness coil and a different number of coils...none of the springs are meant for either the front or the rear, any of them can be used in the front OR the rear, it all just depends on how you like your suspension setup.

In 99% of all cases, you run heavier springs in the rear and lighter springs in the front, since the rear of the truck is heavier and needs more support.

The front and rear shocks are exactly the same; the bodies, shafts, etc. are all the same length, and all 4 shocks are identical. The only differences are the variable items, like; the pistons, oil, & springs.

What little difference there is in the length of the springs you have pictured is nothing, and which spring you use on which end should be chosen by weight, not length.

I've heard the Summit springs are longer. And according to the parts list, the double yellow and double orange springs are "long"

http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/5610_parts.pdf

Interesting to know, I will order 2 pair and try them in one of my 2 basher Erevo's. I'm currently running Blue F&R with 60wt oil. These might be even better with less poundage but with a longer lenth ????

Thanks!

Length is not what you need to be worrying about. If you put a spring that is too long onto a shock, the spring will always be slightly compressed, just as if you had adjusted the pre-load on a shorter spring of the same weight.

There is no reason you should be wanting a longer spring, and in fact, a spring that is too long will coil-bind before the full-travel of the shock is reached (which is bad).

You should also not be running the same weight springs front & rear unless your truck has a perfect 50/50 weight distribution. Like I said, you should be running heavier springs in the rear and lighter springs in the front. You can possibly get away with running the same oil weight front and rear, and sometimes even the same pistons front and rear, but in reality, the front and rear shocks should be tuned differently since the front and rear of the truck are different.

The heavier your spring, the heavier your oil needs to be (or the smaller the piston needs to be).

The lighter your spring, the lighter your oil needs to be (or the larger the piston needs to be).

What exactly are you wanting to do, and I will let you know how you need to setup your suspension/shocks. How heavy is your truck? Do you run anti-swaybars? What terrain do you run on mostly? What type of driving do you do, and do you drive aggressively? Do you jump your truck, or just stay on flat ground?

I appreciate your concern,but I didn't ask for it ?

What you think I "should do" isn't what I want to do.

I drive my Revo like a complete physco on 5s, and I jump the shit out of it.
I have the collars cranked 1/4 of way down w/blue springs with the variable valves. I'm really happy how my erevo handles and I'm always looking to "EXPERIMENT", so the longer springs might do well for me ?
Worst case senerio I wasted 10bucks

It's a excuse to tinker, so no worrys dude. I'm a big kid havin' fun w/my toy trucks ?

That's cool, I was just trying to help.

You might want to try a stiffer spring, like Purple, since you have the pre-load cranked way down. Like I said, a longer spring of the same weight does absolutely nothing different than the shorter spring of the same weight except stop you from cranking the pre-load so far down.

Pre-load is ONLY for adjusting ride-height, it does not make the springs/suspension stiffer, you need a stiffer spring for that.

The preload is not cranked "way down", 1/4 of the threads down at best as mentioned.

Don't want a stiffer spring, thats why I was happy to hear of the double orange at the lb it was.

Fully aware what the pre load is for.

Thanx Sweet cheeks

Hey guys will the Summit driveshafts fit my E Revo.They share the same suspention arms.

Yes Sir they will.
Will they be better ?
Thats a question for Mr Crash, he's used them for a while and I beleive he has mixed emotions weither they are better or not.

Dont bash anotha brotha set-up :diablo:

Never bashed anything, was trying to help.

I did realize this, I only thought it was kinda presumptious of you to tell what I should do or should not do, Kinda ruffled my feathers a tick but all is well. I appreciate your kindness in trying to help.

Cool, thanks.

The Summit shafts are sold complete on ebay only. They are generally sold in pairs of a short one and a long one. You need the long one only. The prices went up as I can see. They are less prone to twisting or snapping but the components wear out quickly and get very sloppy in a short while. I have said it before and will say it again, no matter what shafts you use, they will last much longer if you have a good slipper that is set up right and can take some abuse. Get the aluminum slipper pads from Traxxas when they come out. Aluminum pads will take serious slipping abuse and will not burn out like the stock ones so the slipper can be set much looser which is beneficial to all the drive train's components.

i beg to differ!!
my summit shafts were installed on the week before you did yours if i remember correctly.
spektrum shows that i have had 50 hours of race time on them and they are showing minimal ware for me. :yipi::yipi:
i'll have to get the good camera and get you a photo of the ware, there is about 0.5mm of slop on the CVD pins. and IMO a bit of slop dont matter much when you race offroad!

You're making me realize something important by saying this. I should mention that the second set of Summit shafts I installed seem to be holding on much longer than the first set. They are just starting to get a little slop in them but I also have been running my slipper much looser with more slip than when I was running the first set. I can't believe I over looked this information. But does this mean that the Summit shafts are truly stronger? Maybe, maybe not. I have 8 new stock shafts that came in from ebay last week. When the Summit shafts I am running now wear out too much or break, I will go back to the stock shafts with the same slipper setting and see if the stock shafts give the same performance as the Summits did.
I don't want anyone to believe that I am bashing on the Summit shafts, I like them a lot and I always preferred CV style shafts over U joint shafts. No one should be bashing on any component of the ERBE anyway, the problem is the MMM is too powerful :mdr:
Nah! It's not of course but this power must make it hard for manufacturers to come up with parts that will be strong enough to handle the MMM. Let's think of the shafts for a moment, there's a limit to what can be done to make them bullet proof. I mean I can't imagine running some CV style shaft that is one inch in diameter with parts so strong and heavy that a full set of shafts would weight two pounds.
I'm thinking that the slipper is one of the most important device of the ERBE and those aluminum slipper pads is one of the best upgrades I put on my truck.

Mr.C,
I can't seem to find a part number for these, can you assist please ?

Thanks

he made them...one of the first upgades, should be on the first page.
jokes on me if you were being sarcastic though:lol:

crash,
my summit shafts have lasted well but i run my slipper so tight so that it never gets used!!
i compensate with a little punch control but i cant give you any numbers on my MMM settings untill i go and update it again.

IMO a slipper is WASTE of power so you dial in some punch control and hence turn less of your power into friction and heat! :yipi:

Jokes on me :no: