I thought it was a bit smaller and lighter, but I can see what you mean. Basically a 8ight buggy with a truggy body type thing.

Yup, exactly!

I will say a Tekin 1900kv (buggy) system on 4s is absolutely perfect. Very driveable yet fast, and everything stays nice and cool.

i have Xerun 2000kv in mine. at an rc "meet up" with 10 people some with MCD, Savage flux, slash 4x4's and how fun, my ten-t was on the lips on all of them;) They were all talking about how crazy it was. so i wouldt say atleast 3s. i use 4s in mine. its compleatly psyko, but amazingly fun:) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oazo4OqAZfw

Wooow looks nice:D i cant find out if i should get them, or just the original (and smash some rims)

I'm running a NEU 1509 2400kv on 4s and yes it's fast but not crazy, 17 tooth pinion and it's great on the track. 95, what hub adapters are you using for those buggy wheels? Got some wheels and tires I would like to try.

Looks like the traxxas revo 17mm hex he uses

they'll fit..but you still have to grind down the inner lip of the revo adapters..

What this guy said.

Revo hexes fit well but grind down the lip. Also, don't just grind down and throw on... Try and keep test fitting. Grinding off too much will cause there to be slop (found this out the hard way... Fortunately I had a spare kicking around from something).

As for the wheels/tires... The truck rips like it's on rails which is nice in a way but unfortunately requires a bit of a learning curve considering i've never had anything that drove like this. If you bash with your Ten-T, Badlands are nice, if you stick to track, get something else.

I also put strips of velcro on the top/side/outside of the chassis and bottom of the body and leave the body clips at home. You can see in the pic through the tuned pipe cutout where the blue velcro goes across. The velcro holds the body very nice... down with body clips!

Here's a somewhat interesting question. How do you guys set your servo savers? What's strong enough... what isn't? Other than trial and error 50 thousand times... Is there a good rule of thumb to use to make sure there's enough tension (or not too much)?

thanks.

I'm pretty happy with how mine came stock...

Sorry, should have included more information. I took my front end apart to borrow the parts to a customer when I was waiting for the brushless kit to be manufactured... When I put everything together, I set the steering servo much too loose. I think i've set it at a nice point, however on my next crash, i'll know for sure...

Now i'm having interesting problems with calibrating my DX3S to the MMM esc. Steering works, beeping on the MMM but no calibration. I reset the TX to zero settings and the ESC still won't calibrate for throttle/brake. Gives me the red light which I believe means my throttle/brake endpoints aren't set to zero, or there's brake/throttle being input.

I've bound/calibrated a buddy's DX3s and even a cheap Losi 2.4ghz transmitter... But for some reason mine won't work... Thoughts?

On your castle link, there's a setting for start up time or something like that (can't remember the name). set this for a longer amount of time.

Set it for 4 seconds (other models are 1.5 - LST/SC8)... same thing. This is baffling me. Usually i'm able to troubleshoot through this sort of stuff but i'm now... Baffled?

haha.

Your end points sholdnt be set to zero.Turn on your DX3S and hit model reset.Then try again. As far as the start-up i have all of mine set to the default 1.5 sec.And also my servo saver adjustment "factory" is 3/16" from the chassis to the bottom of the adj. nut. Hope this helps.

Sorry, again I should have thought about what I said. I meant that I "zero'd" the settings back to factory by resetting the model. I guess I didn't realize that most of the settings should have some sort of value, whether it be % or trims, etc.

As for the servo saver tip, greatly appreciated. I tightened it up pretty good but think I still have a little ways to go with the servo saver.

I like that this forum is full of good hands on knowledge, not people spewing information they were told by "a buddy of a friend"... I look forward to passing on some of my knowledge, however my history is in nitro engines and I feel that topic doesn't come up very often around here... (which is good :))

Err guys I see lots of ten-t's and mike's kit has NO ratings?!?!?

hmmmmmmmm? I like it alot ^^^^^^^^^^^^^:yes:

He means write a review/rating on the conversion product page.

Product Page [Here]
Review Page [Here]

Didn't even think about that, done. Should show up in a couple of days.

Thanks for clearing things things up chad. I know what he meant and my review has been done ! :yes:

Cause he will delete my low rating!

I still have trouble with the center diff, i have replaced 6 ball bearings, 1 center diff casing and 1 center diff "holder"


Im about to give up with this piece of F***ING JUNK!

It's a Losi, what else would you expect but junk? Seriously though, don't take this to personally, you being the only one I have read about having so many problems with the ten-t leads me to beleive its something with your setup or something that you are or are not doing.

I was thinking that too, but have seen pics of the other ten-te's and mine looks the same... apart for the electronics.. i have asked losi for advise and they said i maybe needed a new center diff holder, so they shipped me one (for free) and it still doesnt work. i have tried pretty much everything, and its still junk

Are you saying the Losi Ten-T is junk, or Mike's Conversion is junk?

I went out to the LHS track last night after work to play around. I ran for a tad over 50 minutes on each 4s 5Ah pack. Motor temp was a little high at 147*F at the end of the first pack, but it was 95*F outside so that's not that bad really.

I really love this truck! Perfect compromise between 1/8 scale durability and low power requirements of 1/12 scale. Even with 120k CD fluid, it still handles great. I thought my suspension would be a bit stiff for track use since I'm using Losi's stiffer gold springs, but it seemed to handle jump landings much smoother than a Slash (also playing around there) did.

I went into the store to cool off after the first run and the guy with the Slash was in there buying a 3s pack. He had the top off the Slash and his motor was too hot for me to touch. He had been in there for ~5 minutes longer than I was and his motor was hotter sitting there than mine was coming right off the track.

Moller123456 !, I don't know why you are having so much trouble with your setup. Like E-Revonut said, it has to be something specific to your setup. If you lived a little closer to me, I'd offer to meet up with you to get it running right, but several thousand miles is just too long of a drive/swim. :smile: Seriously though, once you get it running, I can almost guarantee you'll love it. Out of all the vehicle types/sizes I have, I like this one the most.

Chadworkz: Abit of both i guess..

BrianG you are so lazy... its just a small swim:D i can maybe make a video to show the trouble im having;) its just hard to see how hot it is on a video.

Does anyone think it will help if i lock the center diff, cause its the center diff out put shaft that gets very hot?

This may have already been answered, but my memory is shot...do you have the stock center-diff and the delrin spur-gear that comes in Mike's conversion, or are you running Mike's Slipperential?

stock center diff and mike's spur

And exactly what is heating up, and what exactly is happening when said part heats up?

the center diff output (the one that goes the the center front drive shaft)

Sounds to me like the front is unloading alot and your spinning the front so fast it's heating up. Try a heavier diff fluid.

Yeah, I know I'm lazy. I just don't feel up to swimming that far today. If it was "just" 500 miles, I might have considered it. :smile: A video may help us troubleshoot, but nothing beats a hands-on approach.

How hot is "very hot". Don't forget, the front shaft is at a pretty sharp angle, so the friction there will tend to heat things up a bit, but should still be reasonable. Are you melting things? What's your setup again (motor/battery)? Maybe it's spinning too fast making a slight heat problem into a large problem? Locking the center diff will only help if your problem is in fact high rpms because the front unloading will make the front spin even faster creating more heat.

i have locked the diff now, and will see if that helps

im running Xerun 2000kv motor xerun 150A esc and 4s tunigy 20C 4000mah

The front diff out drive was always the hottest part on my Losi 8T truggy(full size) due to the angle. It was not uncommon to see 170-180 degrees on the front cd outdrive at the end of a run for me. This would be even worse with a very low viscosity oil in the cd, causing it to unload significantly. this heat could also likely lead to short bearing life as well as affecting the plastic around the area(diff cup, diff holder, for example).

Leave whatever review you like on any of my parts or kits, Moller - if it is a realistic review, whether favorable or not, I will approve it as I have nothing to hide. If it is generic, negative and non-constructive, it won't be approved, though - the purpose of a product review is to give other potential purchasers an idea of the pros and cons of the kit and I will honor any review that is in this spirit. I have already asked several times in this thread what could be improved with the kit, but it sounds like you are unhappy with the car itself, or perhaps its durability - I haven't seen any complaints specific to the actual kit that I can impact directly aside from the lack of instructions. If you were local, I would gladly help you out, as I am fairly certain that you either got a "lemon" from Losi, or you are doing something very wrong. I have a few hours on mine and it has been a very reliable, fast and durable truck with excellent track manners.

Do you have a temp gun you can use to get an actual temp?

Hey mike. i did post a review, and have also given you 5 stars (on another product)
But now that you all say it might be the angle it makes me understand it, and mik fell free to delete my review on the conversion kit :) its now very good. i locked the diff and the temp. dropped. its still not cold, but way colder than before...
Chadworkz: Sadly i dont:( i need to get me one of those:D

Yep, my 8T 2.0 front output gets pretty warm due to the drive angle!

nirtostarter (love your profile pic:D) where can i get that sticker?:D

Warning: Dont lock the center diff, just broke something on the rear center driver shaft...

Well I have bashed mine pretty hard twice now, and am really pleased with it. It has broken small parts (shock ends) and I lost a screw, but that's maintenance issues that come with a used rc. Overall this thing is a blast and is quickly becoming my favorite.