Why'd you do that spectrum will make all axis self centring for free...

Locking the other axis means you can't use it for 4wd and independent 4wd...

I'd have to send the radio off, cant be doing with hassle like that really. Since this radio will service the Gmaxx and TXT-1, no need for independant front and rear drive, and independant 4ws on the TXT-1 isnt really needed- this aint a crawler after :lol: I might look into regular 4ws for tight turning circles though, depends if I think its worth while for handling- this thing tips quite easily, so it would only be any use at low speed, and low speed aint my idea of fun.

I still have the laser 6 radio that has fully operational self-centering sticks, so Im not without options if I fancy a tinker. :smile:

**dun dun dun**

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3geuq89uFw

I'll let the video & description speak for itself :yipi:

Nice one!
Love that truck!
But is it really leaning to it's right that heavy everytime you touch the throttle?

Anyways: Need! More! Videos!:yipi:

It does lean a bit, but it isnt actually that bad compared to stock- a few more tweaks to the suspension to come shortly, gonna make it handle alot better & give it more upwards travel too.

I love the part where you are driving thru the flowers! Truly the definition of a monster truck!

LOL What was that smokey substance after the 4wd went out? Looks great! I laughed when the wheel fell off lol. I would have liked to have seen more speed but I realize its not a speed demon by nature. It is huge btw!

:lol: Torque-steer much?

Great vid! You just need to find some harder foams and/or tape those tires. Oh and some JB weld on the hexes.....and some unobtainium axles! :mdr:

Yeah, that little puff of smoke was just me twitching the throttle, kicked up a little puff of dust. I do plan to do some speed runs in the next video, was gonna this time but the wheel bolts kept undoing after about 1 minute of running ( the threads go 'the wrong way' so undo as you run forwards, unlike maxx axles where the nuts tighten as you run forwards... :lol: @ funny wording ). It does accelerate well but the torque is kinda crazy yeah, hard to keep it going straight- must get some better foams yes :yes:

Ahh the beast lives!

(and then loses a leg) lol

Mulligan the doggy taunter hehe good vid Neil and congrats.

Great job Neil... looks like a whole lot fun.. what's the final weight on that big boy? Did you record the temps on the CC 1518 after the run?

Cautious driver :lol: Drive test I guess ! I hope :mdr:

This MT is really beautiful, but is the ground clearance enough for your driving style ?

Fairly cautious for the first time out, wasnt sure if the prop-shafts ( aka emaxx drive shafts with a yolk at each end ) would hold out as they are stretched to the limit for length, and wasnt sure either if the cursed 3905 spec slipper would hold out either; glad to say they both worked fine.
I was gonna check temps, but when I touched my hand to the motor quickly I noticed it wasnt very warm at all- held onto it & it was barely 'luke warm' at most... ~100-110*F maybe? Lipo & esc were both cool = :smile:
Ground clearance is about 1.5" or so, not much at all, but I dont intend to do any kind of real crawling with this truck, just powering over stuff like lumps & bumps etc as seen in the video ( next time may take it down the woods where there are alot of gravel banks and stuff to scramble up, proper FOFF style :yes: ).

Small project within a project here; how to make 12 to 14mm hex adaptors ( for when you cant simply install larger hex drives ):

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Muligan139.jpg
Start off with a standard 14mm hex ( these being HPi savage items from ebay for dirt cheap- I have 17mm ones on the Gmaxx & they fit perfectly ), drill out the center with a 10mm drill bit. Then, using the edge of an eliptical file, file into the corners, leaving a couple mm before you reach the edge.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Muligan140.jpg
Now take a small flat file and and work away at the area inbetween each notch, keeping parallel as possible to the outside edge on each side.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Muligan141.jpg
You will end up with this. Note: do not overtight your vice jaws as you will crush the hex ( since it has no insides to resist the forces placed on it ).

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Muligan142.jpg
Now turn the hex on its side in the jaws so that you can apply a bit more clamping pressure, and work away at each inside edge again with a small flat file, filing upwards as it were.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Muligan143.jpg
Dont be tempted to take away too much material at once, and keep rotating the hex to work each inside edge evenly, checking the fit on the 12mm hex every so often. You will end up with a very thin walled ( 1mm ) hexagon, that should be a press fit over the 12mm hex; may need to tap it on gently, but it shouldnt need hammering on- remove more material it it feels too tight, and be sure to work from the front and rear to keep the inside edges level front to rear ( dont want a smaller opening on the front vs the rear for example ).

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Muligan144.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Muligan145.jpg

The finished hex adapter after about 20 minutes work. This isnt exactly precision engineering, but there is very little wheel wobble once installed, just need to take your time & work each inside edge evenly to prevent the hex fitting off-center.

:)

20 minutes? For one adapter?
Wish I had the patience for sth like that:oh: