I would, the weight of the motor will flex the strongest of AL mounts, plus that puts alot of stress on one end of the motor. Having a rear motor support will allow for a thinner front mount, and less chance of gear mesh issues.

yep, that's right, go for front and rear angles. Aluminium isn't that stiff as many people think. You should go for a rear aluminium angle as well. Regarding the front mount, I have mixed an Alu-Angle (for cooling purposes), which is screwed on the chassis, with Carbon/glass fiber:

http://s3b.directupload.net/images/090709/krm32k2o.jpg

http://s8.directupload.net/images/090709/6lmx5tia.jpg

like that, it was quite easy to build as well. you just need a good glue (epoxy), sand the surface etc.

when you add an angle at the rear, you should have a very stiff and rugged setup, and less temperature issues.

A "U" shaped piece of aluminum should work as well, I would think.

in regards to supporting the rear of the motor i would especially with these 2215s cuz the front endbell is screwed on by those tiny 2-56 screws. i really dont like that about the 2215 to be honest. i am pretty sure the older version was a solid closed can with only the rear endbell screwed on. i think this is a better design especially when all the weight of the motor is being mounted off the front endbell. anyway, i wish that Neu just made the 22xx's with a one-piece can with removable rear endbell. like the Tekno Neu 15xx's are.

I know offshoreelectrics.com has a motor mount to support the rear of the 2215 motor.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=43

It looks simple you could probably make one yourself if you could get some stock

Do you think the 25C 5000mah Zippy batteries would be adequate? Or would the 30C be safer?

I think the 25C would be fine, especially with such a low turn motor.... you figure, I pushed mine to do crazy wheelies with a 100A cheapo esc... You should be good my friend, if the specs on the lipos are correct... But doesn't hurt to go higher C ratings..

how much are they? i am not familiar with the zippy packs. i have both 25c and 30c packs and cant tell much of a difference. btw, if you are interested i have a couple of 10s 25c 5000mah thunderpower packs. they run $560 new but selling for $225. let me know if you have any interest.

but i think you would be good with either one.

castle hydra hv 240 is here!
 

WOOHOO!! got my speed control today. here are some pics. i also found a little ABS box at radioshack that will work perfect to mount my esc and rx in. i will mod it so a fan will sit directly over the esc and hopefully that will be sufficient to keep it cool. it is normally cooled by water. i plant to make a new center top plate out of carbon that is large enough to mount the esc to.

been working on the swaybars. should finish that today and will post pics.

<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01297.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01297.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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Thats a big speed controller!


As for cooling ideas.. maybe you can take off the water cooling plates and put heatsinks. Maybe take an aluminum box and fill it with mineral or silicone oil and submerge the esc 100% of the heat energy transfered away.
maybe just sync the esc to the chassis with thermal paste.

Because with the water cooling plates you just dont have the surface area of a heatsink to dissapate the heat energy...

just my .02

Well the cooling plates are inbetween layers of boards sitting on top PLENTY of FET's. He would have to unsolder the layers to pull the cooling plates out.

I think it will be fine. I don't think your amp draw will be as much as the controller is rated for. SO i don't see it being a problem. The cooling plates are ALU as well so they will inturn act as heatsinks anyways.

Ryan, she's beautiful isn't she.... :)

thanks for the ideas. nitro is right. there are 4 alu. plates inbetween pc boards and the alum. plates are connected to alu. pipes extending in both directions which are normally used for water cooling. i thought about just removing the shrinkwrap so that a fan can put air around all the aluminum but i am not going to do any mods yet until i try it out. i dont want to void any warranty if i dont need to. Mike has said the the hv 180 has been working fine on the brushless baja he built so i am hoping this works out. if its running too hot then i will look at doing some mods to cool it down. i am thinking with one fan on each the motor and esc i will be able to use gearing to get both temps within the ideal range. i hope so anyway.

Hi Ryan, since you bought that box at radioshack, it includes a metal and plastic top, right? If you remove the water cooling bits, you can thermal epoxy the esc to the metal Case top, then epoxy a large heatsink to the other side of the top.