Small update, got my MGT torn down, waiting on my new chassis. Going to do some mods to the new one right after I get it, including countersinking the holes for the mud guards so I can use flat head screws, so I won't have to put pieces of velcro over the screws to protect the LiPos like I did with button head screws. I need to find an OEM dog bone for the rear center shaft as well, my current setup is kind of hack and it's getting really sloppy and worn out. I'll have more pictures of it later once I get the new chassis and put it all back together.


EDIT: Found the perfect pair of OEM dogbones on Nitrohouse.com, it's a front and rear center set for the Hyper 9 1.0, and they are both exactly the length I need, 93mm front and 115mm rear, talk about good luck! http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id=21011 And they have a chrome finish, which doesn't show pitting from rocks like black drive shafts tend to. Going to be ordering those tonight.

Hi
I don't know how I bend it, maybe in the skate-park (a bad place for the truck.....but great for the jump....:whip:)
It's a little bending, very little, (don't know how to explain that... ) but my friend say it's better to do it in 8mm, for secure it...
If I remember right it's 2017A (he don't have a 7075T6 in stock and I don't really want to wait too much time :whistle:)

today I'm gonna make a real ESC support in carbon... I don't trust the zip-tie:no: (and I've got a Traxxas support for hold it :yes:)

I've done it :intello:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/P1020128.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...g?t=1275325984



just missing some screw and it can gooooo :yipi::yipi:

That looks awesome! I really like it!

Edit #1: I REALLY like those spring-loaded body mounts...who made them and where did you get them?

Edit #2: How much wider are the Monster GT A-Arms than the Maxx A-Arms? Can you measure your Monster GT arms from end to end (just the arms) so I can compare that measurement to my Maxx arms? I would really appreciate it.

I don't have my MGT in front of me right now as I am over at a friend's house, so I can't help you with question two, but for question 1, those are stock MGT body mounts, he just added a spring between the mount and the tower, and put the pin that would normally go through the tower and the mount post through the mount post only, right below the tower. Basically the only extra part there would be the springs. It can be done with stock Maxx body mounts as well.

Not to jump the gun or anything here, but if you were considering using MGT arms on your Maxx, the uppers would have to be modded to work and even then I'm not sure if they would fit, and the lowers would also have to be modded. Both would require removing material around where the hinge pin goes through the arm on the uppers, and for the lowers you would have to remove the middle stub that sticks out from the arm for the hinge pin to go through, and I'm not sure if the outer stubs for the hinge pin are the right width to fit into a Maxx bulkhead. For the modifications needed, it probably wouldn't be worth it, if that is in fact what you were considering. I'm curious to know, is that what you wanted to do or were you just wondering if the lengths were different?

Thanks!

My brain is constantly thinking about custom projects and various things, so I was seeing how the MGT arms compare to the Maxx arms for a possible custom project down the road.

you see right Krawlin :yes: (and you really help me for explain this :whistle:) I just add the spring.. I found this idea on MaximumMT ( french forum ...and here if you want to see some pics of my MTA4:eyes:)

and do you think we can mount a MAXX A-arm on MGT ?? (I'm thinking about the true track kit form RPM )

Alright, some exact MGT arm measurements for ya....


Lower arm width at hinge pin holes - 1.910'', 48.51mm

Lower arm overall length from tip to tip - 5.406'' (5 13/32''), 137.312mm

Upper arm width at hinge pin holes - 2.755'', 69.977mm

Upper arm overall length from tip to tip - 4.945'', 125.603mm


Lower arm has 3 stubs for the hinge pin to go through, Maxx has 2. Upper arm have 2 small stubs and 1 large stub for the hinge pin to go through, Maxx has 4 small ones. Maxx upper arm has material running between the shocks, MGT stock upper arm does not (RPM MGT arms do though).

Hope this helps some!



One cool property that I found about the MGT arms is they can be melted back together and be used for quite some time after if done right. Not long after I got the truck (about 6 years ago, it was an original .21 MGT), I let my dad try it out, and he ran it into a tree within the first 2 minutes of running it, snapped the upper arm in 2 places. Used a soldering iron with large thin/flat tip, got it nice and hot, stuck it between the two pieces and let them melt pretty good then pulled the iron out and together and clamped the arm in a vice for a few minutes while it cooled. did that with the other area where it snapped and was able to put it all back together and I got quite a few runs from that arm before it snapped again. So with the stock MGT arms, if you want to keep running and don't have a spare and don't want to wait for another one in the mail, that works well in that kind of situation. I've never tried this with RPM arms or stock Maxx arms before though.

Thank you for the measurements, I really appreciate it!

Got my new chassis and dog bones in the mail today, putting the truck back together now. Nitrohouse fails though, they don't measure dog bones pin center to pin center apparently, so I bought a 115mm dog bone assuming that it was pin center to pin center length, and it's not, so now I'm thinking it isn't going to be long enough, but I better finish assembling the truck before I jump to conclusions here....

Anyway, here are a few pictures of the new chassis next to the old one -

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1394.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1395.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1396.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1397.jpg

So this Hyper 9 1.o dog bone is too short for sure, just put the truck back together with the center diff where I want it and it's about 5mm short.... I spoke too soon about them being perfect I guess. However, I am going to blame nitrohouse for this one since they do not specify if they measure shafts from pin center to pin center or from tip to tip, and the "normal and most used" method is pin center to pin center, and they measure from tip to tip. I need a dog bone that is 113mm to 115mm pin center to pin center. And this Hyper 9 1.0 shaft is actually 107.5mm pin center to pin center. So the search continues......

:oh:
this is a really bad luck.... :neutral:

Why not have Mike make you a dogbone? Or can you find some extended drive cups?

Cut and sleeve it, do you want that chassis shined' up :)

Seems like he takes quite a while to do custom stuff and I don't really want to wait that long. I have been hunting for some extended drive cups though, no luck yet.


I was thinking about doing that, its finding sleeve with the right inner diameter in a reasonable length (McMaster only sells what I need in 6 foot sections) with a large outer diameter to be strong that seems to be the problem. What McMaster has is .152'' inner diameter tube, which is perfect, but the wall thickness is .049'' / 3/64'' or 1mm, which is relatively small.