Thanks.
18.9lbs rtr.
2x5s 4000mAh Gens Ace batts in series - 15-20 minutes of runtime depending on how I'm driving.
Temps last time out: ambient 55F, batts 88F, esc 110F, motor 120F if I remember correctly.

awesome ..... 20min ...... great runtime using this beast 1527 :yes:

thanks and we waiting more notices/photos/vids :lol:

Hi Brian, i know this is a silly question...
But which alloy tape are you using around your hexs exactly so they fit the 24mm baja hex correctly?

Is it similar to this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-Roll-Alumini...#ht_3605wt_809

and obviously it isnt 1mm thick so, would you just do multiple wraps till it fits snug in the hex?

Thanks... and sorry for the silly question... i just dont want to strip my baja hexs

That's basically the stuff that I was using when I was running 23mm hexes. And yes, couple of wraps and make sure that the fit is snug.

Exactly - I found my aluminum tape in the ventilation/ductwork aisle at the Home Depot.

And someone else cut a strip of aluminum from their coke can and put it in the hex to fill the space - you could even super glue it to the hex so it stays put when you mount the wheel.

Edit: link to coke can reference

Hmmm ill probably pick up the alloy tape as it is more of a long term solution that wont cause me problems....

But i think i used the coke can method one time before, and it worked very well before

Cheers guys!

Hi Brian, keeping your thread alive here haa

My pistix has just arrived... and instead of starting a new thread... i was hoping you could help me.

Where abouts would it go and is there any programing i need to do to get it to work?

Thanks Bud

Josh

Thanks for keeping this going - I've actually been working on this truck because it's been having a few problems (I post the details later).

Your pistix should have included instructions that explain how to set your throttle trim using a servo in place of your esc. I'm not sure its really necessary - since I've adjusted my trim since I did that and it still works fine.

Anyway, the pistix should simply plug in between your esc and rx. Let me know if you have more questions.

-brian

Cheers Brian!! ill let you know.

Are any of your problems ESC/Motor related or weight issues? i wouldnt mind knowing as i could learn from what you have experienced and hopefully avoid such problems?

Thanks for the help!!!

I finally had one of these diffs fail - the rear. It was one of the internal spider gears that went bad. I then had an accident with it today after driving it for about a minute and broke the output cup on the same diff I just rebuilt.
:cry:

I also replaced the center diff cup because I thought that was the problem initially - it got pretty hot a few times and the plastic hd case seemed to be deforming slightly - but I don't think it was really a problem, because the internal gears were OK.

I also had drive shaft screws come loose from the front and rear diff pinions on separate occasions - meaning I had to stop driving and come home to fix them - now they're loctited - so hopefully it won't happen again.

Anyways, I've been working on this much more than driving it recently - keeping me from my other build. :diablo:

Thanks for the info bud... it just reminds me to locktite as i go... THere are many things i havent loctited because i continuously rip it apart and put it back together.

The only weak spot at the moment, which i believe wont cause problem, are my front and rear plastic diff cup cases.
they are from a vorza and very tough. And allows me to use my BP Savage Ring gear and hardened internls which are tougher than a stock savage... Plus i use two larger 8x16x5mm bearings instead of the old alloy cup bearing which was 10x16x5mm. Im sure the cup will handle the power. My CD is a spider diff, so should be all gd there.

Hopefully you get it all put together soon!

Any update on how you found the handling with the narrower front hubs you shortened? There is a guy that may do mine and shorten them to 20mm rather than 30mm. Think it is a good idea?

Too early to say - I just haven't been able to drive this much at all with the narrower front end.

Hi Brian, back in for some help pleaseeee

I am just setting up my castle link on my ice hv160. I am a little unsure as to how i should have it set up???

Under the following settings
Throttle
"Vehicle type" & Specific settings for that type.

Cutoffs
"Current Limiting"

Motor
"Motor Startup Power" - I set for low
"Motor Timing" - did you have normal or low?
"PWM Rate" - what is this? and what should it be set at?

im now running Version 3.26 beta - is that what you are running? or an older version?

Thanks Brian!

Josh

Josh, I left many of the settings on default to start. Playing with a few of the settings really made no noticeable difference to me.

Here are my current settings on the ICE hv160:

Vehicle type: airplane
Throttle response: medium (5)

Auto-lipo; 3.2v; hard cutoff

Motor: medium start power (59)
motor timing: normal (5)
pwm rate: 12khz

hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions

-brian

Wich hubs and axles are you using, to use those 1:5 scale tires?