Thank you George, yes indeed that is my ESC mount. Because of where I mounted the motor/slipperential, the length of the motor would not let me mount the ESC in the original holes. So I had to make the plate with holes 10mm back. As for the shocks they are the Proline http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Shocks-2-Slash
Make shure that you get all rears. Also I had the spring rings anodized to match everything else. Thanks guys for all the compliments. This has been in the works for almost 5 months now and it's finally coming together. If I could just get more time to work on it. More pics will be coming soon. Next I will mount the temporary servos and steering linkage. As soon as the Hitec 9380 brushless/neu castle sservos come out (supposedly in September) I will get a set of those http://www.bigsquidrc.com/hitec-hsb-...shless-servos/
Thanks again guys!

OK, next problem. I have assembled the steering bellcranks and started to mount the turnbuckles, and it seems that they are too long. I have the aluminum turnbuckle kit for the emaxx brushless 112mm in front and 124mmin the rear. Which ones do I need to get?

I'd have thought the UE knuckles & a-arms had their own specific turnbuckles to use as they are non-standard lengths compared to the stock old or new emaxx turnbuckles, so far as I know. I'd set the knuckles straight ahead, and the steering bellcranks centered, then use some calipers or something to work out the length you need and see if anything matches pre-existing options; you can also make your own turnbukle to find the required length using some threaded rod & a couple rod ends ( trim rod as required until the steering knuckles & bellcranks play nice )...

I'm going to try a set of these because I cut them to what ever length I want.
http://www.google.com/url?q=http://w...PgMFJBjwufZUMQ
Do you have any experience with these?

Here are a few more pics. It's of the bell cranks mounted, before they get covered by the titanium skid plates.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0183.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0184.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0182.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0181.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0180.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0178.jpg

Never used them myself, but I've seen a few guys who bought them after the BYT review, no complaints from what I've seen so they should be fine :yes:

Liking the dual servo saver bellcrank setup, that should be nice and beefy with zero slop.

It was great with my original truck I think it will work out great with the new truck. Thanks Neil.

Speaking of servos, I was reading somewhere last night about a new beefy servo coming out in the near future. I can't remember where I read it but it talked about neu castle motors powering the servo.

The post had a link to big squid ? I'm guessing its the site that was discussing the leaked photos even though the mfr, hi-tech I'm guessing is manufacturing it?? This could make for a extremely beefy setup or a strong single would be my guess. I'd imagine it would probably lose its waterproofing ability due to the switch over.

Look at my post at the top of this page.

I just got an email from the guys at Hitec and it seems that they have had another delay in production. Now they don't know when the release date will be. I wonder what the problem is. I wonder if it's the Nue Castle motors that are causing the delay.

I've been digging through this thread a little bit tonight and came across this post you had about the side to side movement. Did it take several shims to get the output shafts set right or not ? I'm worried about me putting the shims inbetween the output shaft cross pin and the o-ring. The shims aren't going to cause a problem with this are they? I don't want to have To redo all this again.

I believe I had to put two shims just on one side. It was between the output shaft and the bearing (outside the diff case but inside the hybrid bulkhead ). I can't remember if it was on the ring gear side or the other side. I think I tried it both ways and one side was better than the other. Just don't locktite everything down until you find the right combo. Take your time and you won't have to ever do it again, and no it did not cause any problems at all in fact it helped smooth everything out.

I'm about to assemble the turnbuckles and I need to glue/epoxy the ends on to the fullforce carbon fiber rods. What should I use? I'm not sure ca glue will be enough.

Permenant fix
 

I would just use red loctite if you are looking for a somewhat permenant connection that can be taken apart if you so wish down the road. The truck is looking very nice. Love the red anodized chassis.

That's very interesting. I never would have never thought of using that. Thanks for the compliment.