Or I guess pony up 4 big ones and have Vantage make the ''Raymond Duchesne'' special. ;-)

Wait, so, if thousands are big ones, are hundreds mini ones? (Like 4 bills, is 4 minis? :P) Sorry, I'm incredibly bored :(

Sure, why not. :-) I'm sure since they no longer print money in $1000 denominations, techincally $100's would be the biggest. I therefore misspoke - 40 big ones...4 super-size (?). :lol:

:rofl::rofl::rofl::lol::lol:

Vegas has the last remaining $1,000 bills (one thousand of them) as well as the only $10,000 bills (one hundred of them) ever printed! They are displayed in one of the casinos.

i have been running the vantage chassis with the hardcore racing skid plate for 2 years on my platinum without any problems

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/DSCN1156.jpg

Stop trying to convert me to conversions :whip: :smile: And by the way, that ST Racing front skid plate I just installed, it bent so it's now a scrap piece of metal :oh: The money I waste in this hobby I tell ya! I need some of those $10 000 bills from Vegas.

Honestly, doing your research, even on small things like can really save you alot of money.

Seriously there, you think I don't research before buying? What answers do you think I find about one particular product I am interested about? I find opinions like ''this is the best thing ever'' and then ''worst crap ever produced'' and then '' I ran this thing for 50 years and never had a problem'' and then ''I just looked at it and it blew up''.

So what am I supposed to do? Buy the frikkin thing and try it for myself, that's what I do.

Well excuse me...If you did any kind of research than, you would know ST Racing stuff is about on par with Integy...You would also know that its not really smart to use aluminum skids on a Revo since they usually cause more harm than good. Something like a HCR full length is a different story though...

I never tried any Integy parts, I also never tried ST Racing parts. All I had to go from was the opinions I could find in forums. And like I said, they were mixed and did not help me very much. As for using aluminum skids not being the smartest option, I agree for the rear, the Revo wears out the rear skid plate very quickly, but I never had problems with my front skids wearing out prematurely. I looked at the ST Racing skid and thought that it might help since it was made in one piece instead of two. I couldn't make up my mind on the quality of the part from the opinions from other users so I had to try it for myself. Sorry I took your first post a little too personnal.

Its all good.

Like I said, the Hardcore Racing full-length, one-piece titanium skid-plate is the best thing you can do for a Revo, 2nd only to the Vantage CF chassis!

Also like I said, I have a brand-new, one-piece, 2mm titanium skid-plate that you could use, but as I had to do with mine, you will need to cut it to make it fit. Plus, since it is for a nitro-style chassis, and you have an electric-style chassis, all you could really use would be the front section and the rear section, which is more than enough. If you don't want to buy a whole, complete, new skid, I have a used (but nice) front section that has already been cut that will be perfect for you!

http://pics.offroadextremes.com/rc/ti_skid1.jpg

http://pics.offroadextremes.com/rc/ti_skid2.jpg

race report on smart diff...
the diff stock out of box with no tuning was similar in performance to 100k diff oil in a XXL diff.
power would start off unloaded, front wheels touched down followed by a huge push in the rear end and then gradually as the torque on the diff reduced it would unload again.

the brakes were insane! locked all 4's rather than having the CD unload the 2 gradually.

and since i changed from a 2.5 chassis to a 3.3 chassis i may aswell tell you what i thought...
IT SUCKED WITH A CAPITOL S!!!!!!:slap:
i have no idea how you people drive with the long 3.3 and E-revo chassis's!!
i was forced to run the 6s lipo all day and i STILL needed more power!!
the 5s decided today was a good day to need new deans plugs but when it was going it was GUTLESS!!
you need max throttle on the 3.3 chassis to pull out of a dive and sometimes it STILL wont pull out of it!
the old 2.5 could pull out of ANYTHING!!
i hope i can find a way to get my beloved 2.5 chassis re-enforced and repaired again...i miss quadruple backflips :intello::yipi::rofl:

i have some titanium ones that i havent got round it fitting :intello:

I think part of your problem could very well be the diff. That can change the flight characteristics and might be why it won't pull the nose up so easily. Try the .15mm springs and the 120 degree ramp plates (not sure how they come). That should give the most aggressive setup possible. If you decide to sell it though, let me know. :)

On the SD, a setup I kept seeing was to cut 2 coils off the .15 springs and run 2 instead of 4. Granted that was in 8ights and 8ight-Ts, but it might be worth a shot, I can't imagine springs cost that much.

Crash, sounds like you're having a rough winter season. Hope you get it worked out soon, I know it's frustrating to blow 30-40 bucks only to have the part combust on the first few runs.

I use this with good results:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminium-Revo-3...item3efc8212f6

I'm sure that's good and all, but it's also heavy, will bend, and will gouge...a single titanium front skidplate is all that is needed. I am not trying to sell anything, just speaking the truth. Aluminum is the worst skidplate material ever.

Chrome wheels are for shelf queens. When you start using them, they quickly look awful. The chrome is flaking off. But the paint I put on the wheels is holding.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ome_wheel1.jpg

thanks for the help, i was thinking of changing to the softest springs that came with it and then chopping one coil off.
we'll see how it goes :P
ive gotta get my 2.5 chassis rocking again though, was soooo good for handling!!

Yep, chrome-plating on wheels sucks, especially in cold weather! Just strip them with oven cleaner and dye them!

I knew all about chrome wheels and never liked them even though they look so good when new. When I built my son's GERBE, I wanted those wheels because to a 5 year old, big shiny wheels are awesome. And I wanted our trucks to match so I went with the same wheels for me. They should be the last chrome wheels I'll get for a while.

I thought I was done with the big projects for this ERBE but apparently not. I received two 4S 5800 mah Turnigys a couple days ago but since I'm seriously thinking of going back to the stock chassis, I won't be able to use them. I saw a few people cut their chassis and make bigger battery compartments so I'm giving it a try. I wanted the compartments to extend down instead of up, to lower the CG. So I ordered this,
http://www.smallparts.com/dp/B000RFU...f_rd_s=right-3
And I will cut these shapes from that PVC angle.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bat_comp1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bat_comp2.jpg

This part will be folded at each end to form the battery box. I should be able to make the bends by heating the PVC a bit.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bat_comp3.jpg

The box will be secured to the chassis with 5 M4 flat head screws in counter sunk holes. (in the pic, it is just held there with servo tape) Plastic welding would be cool here but I don't know if PVC can be welded to Nylon. And I never got that plastic welder anyway.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bat_comp4.jpg

The battery door slides in the slots and a body clip holds the top part to the door on the body post I put there in a previous mod I did for the stock battery doors.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bat_comp5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bat_comp6.jpg

Here's the 5800 mah 4S battery in there, it fits with a few millimeters to spare. I shook the chassis in every which way very hard and even though the mock up is only made of cardboard, the heavy battery stayed in there.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bat_comp7.jpg

That should work very well!

Thats ingenious :yes:

i had a question about the kersaw e-revo chassis i found a company that will make the top plate out of CF do you think that will help with the ALU bending or will it just break and not be worth it

Also is there any other mods you can think of that will help out. I am trying to make a basher 'cause there are no tracks here.

3mm or 1/8" (3.2mm) top-plates will work great, but you are just putting a Band-Aid on that chassis (sorry Dan)...you really should use either the stock E-Revo chassis or a converted nitro chassis (preferably the Vantage CF chassis).

Not to mention the problem with adding the front kickup and rear kickdown to the upper plate if made out of carbon fiber...

Yep, didn't think about that...you would have to get carbon-weave fabric and resin and mold your own pieces with the correct bends in them.

Which would probably have to be vacuum formed, and alot of $$$$.

Yep! I, personally, think the Vantage Carbon-Fiber chassis is the best way to go...and you can use whatever transmission you want; E-Revo, E-Maxx 3905, E-Maxx 3906, or Nitro Revo with an RCM Motor-Mount!

Indeed...I have the Vantage chassis as well (with the V-Armor) and it is GORGEOUS, but unfortunately before I even finished the makeover so to speak of the Nitro Revo to BL conversion (Tekno tray, RCM motor mount, two speed Revo tranny with center diff and mechanical brakes, etc.), I decided to go with the E-Revo chassis. Much more convenient really since that would be the only truck I have that would need a single pack and I didn't wanna deal with that, as well as the complicity of it.

I run the Vantage Extended 3.3 carbon-fiber chassis, a Hardcore Racing full-length one-piece front-to-rear titanium skidplate, Mike's RCM motor-mount, nitro Revo transmission with FOC & locked in 2nd gear, two 30C 4S 2650mAh LiPos in parallel (14.8v @ 5300mAh & 159A) and I made my own 2mm carbon-fiber trays for the LiPos, ESC, Rx, Motor-Mount Brace, 2nd Servo Hole Cover, and an empty tray/spot between the front of the motor and the steering servo.

i found a company that will did the chassis for free (I uesd to work for them) so the price isn't the main problem i was just woundering if it would hold up to bashing

gonna go out and test the smart diff again tomorrow.
but current oppinion...smart diff is a waste of $$ in a revo IMO.
but we'll see :lol:

I like the solid output shaft in the transmission instead of a center-diff and either the stock E-Revo diffs or Mike's RC-Monster Hybrid Diffs.

This is where I'm at with the battery compartment project. I ordered the wrong PVC angle. It's too small. So I improvised by making extensions. Everything is put together with double side tape just to see if it works. I made a mistake in cutting one of the doors so I had to make another one out of different material so that's why they are different. Both doors will be like the black one.
I have a couple sheets of PVC coming in and I'm going to redo evrything the proper way, without extensions.
This PVC is easy to work with, cutting, drilling is no problem and using a heat gun to make bends works very well.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...batt_comp1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...batt_comp2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...batt_comp3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...batt_comp4.jpg

Wow, I like it!

That is dudey, low CoG ftw!

Not gonna move forward with the battery compartment thing. The club I used to race at is going 1/8 Truggy and Buggy exclusively. So it's just bashing for me and my son this year. The stock chassis will do fine with the stock battery openings.

I'm thinking, there might be some reasons why Traxxas made those battery compartments the size they are. If the size of the batteries is limited then the weight added to the truck is limited resulting in less broken parts.