So what kind of 1/8 Truggy are you going to get?

I'm a MT lover. I like how they look and the fun they give me when bashing. They are much harder to race then Truggies and that is what I like about them too. More of a challenge I find to be as fast as you can without breaking anything. Truggies are the bastard sons of a drunk MT and a slutty buggy. Yes in my mind, buggies are female :mdr:

By the way, remember the E-ST 4X4 truck Vantage Racing was supposed to come out with? It's out on their website. Maybe my expectations were too high but the company well known for their wonderful carbon fiber chassis made a plastic truck.

hahaha
oh the irony.

What pisses me off is they've had the carbon fiber arms on there product truck (you have to look close) for like 2 years now and sure enough, still haven't seem em...:whip:

Contact them, they will sell you a complete set of CF Revo A-Arms, for $389.99...I know because I asked, they gave me a price, and I bought a set! They come with a written disclaimer clearly stating that they are NOT covered by their warranty, and once you take ownership of them, anything that happens to them is your fault and you are on your own to fix or replace whatever breaks. They have only made around 30 sets for testing as well as personal use by people in the company, so you better get yours before they sell out of their "non-advertised" product, heh! The only way I found out that they actually made/had some, and would sell some, was because I saw them on the truck pictured on their main page and then emailed them. I ended up selling my set for $600, but am thinking about buying another set pretty soon.

Edit: According to Brian, the employee I spoke with, Vantage has redesigned the arms slightly, and the new kit should be available soon.

I contacted them quite a while back and they said to expect them soon, but that was a LONG time ago. Haven't bothered since...
So would you say to wait for the new kit or to get a set ASAP? My only concern is I'd like to have a true-trac...I really hate this dilemma to be honest. Is it to much to ask for Tekno knuckles all around with carbon fiber arms and a true-trac setup? :oops: Seriously, why can't the companies combine the best of the best? True-trac concept from RPM, awesome 8mm knuckles from Tekno, and carbon fiber arms from Vantage? That would be TITS. :mdr:

ok more smart diff testing needed...
this time i'm gonna take the springs out!! :rofl:

If you have the money to spend, I would go ahead and grab a set now while they still have some, because who knows if they will ever go into production. I really wish I hadn't sold my set, but I couldn't turn down such a huge profit, so I will probably buy another set myself.

So the truck is all put back together with new stock chassis, new bulkheads and new front arms. It is cold again today and we wanted to play with the trucks so out we went. I started with a pair of Turnigy 2S and did the same things I usually do, mostly jumping as I wanted to know if the bulkheads would hold up. Ran until the LVC kicked in. No broken parts other than a lost body clip. Then I put a couple 3S Zippy-H in and ran the truck again. Going faster and jumping higher. near the end of the lipo's cycle, I jumped a snow bank at almost full speed, the truck went high, I was looking up at it, it clipped the Realtor's ''SOLD'' sign that's in front of our house and went into a weird flat spin and landed hard on the asphalt on the left rear wheel.
This broke the left rear rocker and cracked the left bulkhead. one bulkhead is cracked, not shattered like all the bulkheads were with the Kershaw chassis.
So with the stock chassis, the bulkheads are much harder to break, it took a real bad and hard crash to only crack one.

I am going to change all the bulkheads and go to un modified ones because I want to try going back to the stock E-Revo diffs. Later.

Oh no you done with the LST diffs permanently or just till it warms up?

I want to see how long the stock diffs are going to last. I know the LST diffs last a long long time and don't seem to break a sweat even on 6S. After close to a full year of racing and bashing, my LST diffs only needed new lube recently, the gears and bearings were all in top shape. I want to find out for myself if the stock diffs can last and take abuse like the LST diffs did. I know a lot of people run the stock diffs without problems but I have to test them for myself with my kind of driving.

*Yoda's voice* "A long journey it was, MC, and the full circle you walked..."
nevermind I'm tired lol
At least the stock chassis are cheap and easy to replace. It was fun reading up with your trials!

ive run stock diffs and only ever killed one rear diff but that was a completely different issue that caused that.
driveshaft boot got torn, sliding shaft siezed, pressure put of diff beaering, powdered bearing, ring gear moved and got stripped.

other than that, no troubles, you will need thicker oil in them than you run in the LST diffs though.
i run 500k in the front but that is a tad too thick, i run 5k in the rear and that feels ok.

My son's GERBE runs stock diffs in which I put 50k in front and 10k in rear. I find them a little too loose so in my ERBE I will try 100k front and 30k rear. I will still run my 8th scale diff in the center.

If you starting putting higher than 50K in the front diff steering will start to suffer.
I do a lot of climbing and hard bashing and have found that 30-50K Front and 50K rear works very well.

Thanks I will keep that in mind when I try 100k in the front anyway :na: :lol:

It was a nice sunny and warm 34 degrees F winter day today and we played with our trucks a lot. A lot of people were taking walks in the neighborhood with their dogs and children so my son took care of terrorizing the small dogs and I went darting for toddlers. Just joking :whistle: When I changed the rear bulkheads, I forgot to tighten down the nuts for the rockers so they were sliding up and down the shafts and eventually, one broke at the beginning of the third set of lipos. Sadly, I don't have a spare so I just watched my son play until he decided he had enough. No broken bulkheads though http://www.revo-world.com/forums/ima...ilies/yay2.gif

My switch was not holding well anymore because the screw holes were stripped so I decided to finally get rid of it. After almost a year of running it in a balloon, it still looks pristine with no trace of dust or moisture or corrosion.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...th_switch7.jpg

I took out the old bag of multi colored marshmallows and went clown hunting. I talked about this trick before on how I leave a trail of multi colored marshmallows leading to the end of a dark alley. When a clown takes the bait, I jump out and grab his bag of clown balloons, the ones he makes balloon puppets with. My Jato shock boots were torn so I went back to clown balloons, they are tougher then Jato shock boots. I also went with blue front springs and silver rear springs. here's a pic of the truck with missing rocker and no place for a switch anymore.


http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/th_erbe4.jpg

I run 50k oil in my front diff and 10k oil in my rear diff with no center diff and it is perfect (after trying many different combos)! I also still run Nitro-Revo diffs instead of E-Revo diffs & they are holding up just fine, and I beat the living crap out of my truck! Plus, I hate to beat up on the already beaten up horse, but a properly set slipper will protect the rest of your driveline, diffs included.

For anyone that doesn't already know...you are supposed/need to run thicker oil in the front diff and thinner oil in the rear diff, to help with steering. The thicker the oil is in the rear diff, the more your truck will push (understeer) in the turns and not steer very well at all, which is why you run thinner oil in the rear diff and thicker oil in the front diff. You can even run a spool in the front if you want, but you will get very over-aggressive steering (oversteer) and it will be hard to control...oil in the front diff that is too thick does the same thing.

Crash, what rocker posts are you using?

I use the stock Traxxas posts, I put a M4X12 mm set screw in them with red Locktite then use a lock nut to secure the rocker. I was tired of trying to unscrew that M4 button head screw and the post would come with it. I got the idea from Lunsdford titanium posts. They are machine with a threaded post on top for a nut instead of a threaded hole for a screw.

So you break your last set of rear P2 rockers and you are still waiting for the new sets to come in. What do you do? Leave the truck on the table and wait? I say no way! Take your unused Long Travel rockers, make P2 rockers out of them and keep on bashing or racing.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...2_rockers1.jpg

Putting the broken P2 rocker on top, it might not be absolutely perfect but I would say it's pretty darn close. All the holes line up very nicely.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...2_rockers2.jpg

I just tried the truck on 6S. I was surprised at how well it worked.

Interesting idea on the stock rocker posts. I have been considering the Lunsford ones, mainly because I already have a bent one and if I'm going to spend the money... My only gripe with the lunsfords is that the nuts are annodized... lock nuts don't work right annodized. I like the idea though.

Lock-nuts working has nothing to do with being anodized or not...the "locking" part of the nut is the hard rubber insert in the last few threads of the nut. Anodizing has no affect on lock-nuts.

MC, I think you need a set of NIP Hardcore Racing Titanium Rockers, and I just happen to have a full front & rear set! ;)

Remember the Kershaw chassis experiment? Remember how it failed? Remember I had to pay $40 to get a new top plate? I got it today. It's the 2.2 version with 20 degrees kick up in the front and 3 degrees kick down in the rear :whistle:
yeah those angles are all wrong, they don't match the bulkheads at all. But not to worry as the aluminum is so soft, I can bend the plate to the correct angles with two fingers. What a piece of junk! I'm done with this guy. The plate is not even flat.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...plate_2_2a.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...plate_2_2b.jpg

Chad, if crash doesn't want em, PM me and I might take em off your hands. :mdr:

Thanks Chad but I don't want the rockers, I do fine with the stock ones.

Damn, that chassis isnt all that great for what you pay- what the heck quality alloy does he use, 4xxx series? :neutral:

By the looks of the overall finish as well as the cross-section when you cut through it, it looks like he uses 5083 aluminum alloy, which isn't even in the T6 class of alloys. 5083 is not recommended for any type of structural use, and is commonly used as a fascia material to cover up other structural materials, especially since 5083 polishes fairly well, after some pretty aggressive sanding and multiple polishing compounds.

Also 5083 is FAR cheaper to buy than 6061-T6, and FAR easier to machine/mill than 6061-T6, since it is so soft and doesn't wear out end-mills and other milling bits & tools as quickly. As soon as I can find a chemist willing to do the required alchemy tests (maybe the local college tech department, etc.), I will confirm for sure what alloy Dan uses.

Bottom line, if you do anything more than just run the truck up and down the street, Dan's chassis juat isn't for you...you need to use one of the many other chassis currently available. If you can find one, the Gorillamaxx Revo chassis (either carbon-fiber or aluminum) is your best bet, followed extremely closely buy the Vantage Racing carbon-fiber chassis, or just scratch build a full chassis yourself, since you are so good at scratch building things. Check out this scratch-built chassis a guy made (it's for the 1/16 E-Revo, but you get the idea)...

lmao at the new v2 chassis

The Kershaw chassis is gone, sold on ebay so now I have a set of 4S lipo and a set of 3S lifepo4 that don't fit. The lifepo4 packs are now used for a hand held Vac. The two 4S 5800 mah Turnigys I got recently have been transformed in a pair of 3S 5800 mah lipos. I will make a 5800 2S pack with the remaining two cells and sell it locally.

It would have been nice to separate all the cells and test them individually to match the best ones together but I didn't feel like doing that. Just taking out one cell and resoldering two wires was enough.

Here's a CBA II test result for those Turnigy 5800 3S lipos.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...0_overlay1.jpg


Turnigy 3S 5800 1:
Discharge rate: 8 Amps
Starting voltage: 12.50 V
Ending voltage: 9 V
Total time: 42 min. 47 sec.
Tested capacity: 5701 mah
Recharged @ 5858 mah with 1.4, 1.7, 1.5 milliohm IR

Turnigy 3S 5800 2:
Discharge rate: 8 Amps
Starting voltage: 12.50 V
Ending voltage: 9 V
Total time: 44 min. 24 sec.
Tested capacity: 5914 mah
Recharged @ 5942 mah with 1.4, 1.6, 1.4 milliohm IR

i did this yesterday, turned a 8000mah 3s2p 10c pack into an 8000mah 2s2p 10 and a 4000mah 2s1p 10c.

only to be run in my smaller rc's :wink:
the $20 buggy likes lipo, the stock tires are now mambafied :whistle:

in other news....
I PRETZLED A SUMMIT SHAFT!! :rofl::surprised:
and ive also fried my MMM almost 2 weeks ago. but this time castle had it replaced within 1.5 weeks and it's already on it's way back :yipi:

Hi, I've been scrolling thru your notes here. Im new on this forum or to any I should say. I have to tell ya! You opened my eyes to a whole new way of looking at my revo! Ive been bac into RC for about a year and searching this dam computer for fix's, how to this, how much that, I dont have a big support network built up, but Its looks to me like, You just have to try it, break it, build it, tweak it. Like your style! The Ofna hub thing is slick. Anyway I bought aluminum outer dif cases for a revo and Im about to put em together,Im having a hard time deciding oil wt for the F +R. I want to have a crossover revo if u kno what I mean. hardcore offroad/street? is it possible?

Hi, I've been scrolling thru your notes here. Im new on this forum or to any I should say. I have to tell ya! You opened my eyes to a whole new way of looking at my revo! Ive been bac into RC for about a year and searching this dam computer for fix's, how to this, how much that, I dont have a big support network built up, but Its looks to me like, You just have to try it, break it, build it, tweak it. Like your style! The Ofna hub thing is slick. Anyway I bought aluminum outer dif cases for a revo and Im about to put em together,Im having a hard time deciding oil wt for the F +R. I want to have a crossover revo if u kno what I mean. hardcore offroad/street? is it possible?

Hi, I've been scrolling thru your notes here. Im new on this forum or to any I should say. I have to tell ya! You opened my eyes to a whole new way of looking at my revo! Ive been bac into RC for about a year and searching this dam computer for fix's, how to this, how much that, I dont have a big support network built up, but Its looks to me like, You just have to try it, break it, build it, tweak it. Like your style! The Ofna hub thing is slick. Anyway I bought aluminum outer dif cases for a revo and Im about to put em together,Im having a hard time deciding oil wt for the F +R. I want to have a crossover revo if u kno what I mean. hardcore offroad/street? is it possible?

50,000wt (50k) oil in the front diff and 10,000wt (10k) oil in the rear diff.

Note: Not 50wt or 10wt, but fifty thousand wt and ten thousand wt.

dam
 

sorry about the multiple listing. I dont kno how it even happened.
thanks for the info