Looks like they mount the same way. Slide the hex on the axle, slip the pin in the hole, tighten the grub screw inside the axle.

Yep, that is exactly how they go on. They mount the exact same way the Pro Line's do. W/ the Dace hubs... I have no doubt that they are great, but the fact that they go over a 14mm hex is of not any use to me really. They would have been when I was running Emaxx's though, but back then I didn't use 23mm hubs!

No, Pro-Line's do not mount like 1/8 scale hexes with a grub-screw through the axle end holding the cross-pin tightly in place...they have a groove in the back that fits over the cross-pin in the axle, then a 5mm lock-nut goes onto the axle-stub, tightening the hex against the criss pin...completely different than the 1/8 or CEN style.

I did a little work on the truck this morning. I shimmed my suspension to get rid of the slop. My battery boxes were great but for the larger lipos, I had to tuck the wires inside pretty tight in order to close the doors. I was afraid that bending the wires to much numerous times would damage them in the long run so I made an opening on the doors to let the wires stick out without putting stress on them.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ery_doors1.jpg

For the people who have been running LSTs for a while, I noticed that the shock towers have a lot of flex. Should I worry about that or just leave it like it is. I'm thinking a piece of 3 mm CF would reinforce the ends of the shock towers where the shocks caps are.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ck_towers1.jpg

Just an idea of how my mind works sometimes. My wife is having her period so I'm thinking: ''Why not put wings on my chassis'' :oh: Yup! My mind works in mysterious ways. Here's what I'm thinking. The battery box brackets I made are working well but it's a lot of hardware that was added to the truck. In order to minimize the added weight, I thought of having wings on the upper chassis plate to reinforce the battery box ends with just small and simple aluminum angles to secure the box to the wings. I know it would work, I just don't feel like doing it right now. Maybe later in the summer if the brackets ever fail, which I don't think they will.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ate_wings2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ate_wings3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ate_wings4.jpg

Nice project...you will like it on the track...

I've been running the same basic design since last year..... Truck also runs Losi 8T 2.0 towers and shocks. It will be running at the big AMS race starting tomm.....will be on LiveRC.com since they actually added an MT class. Should be awesome...... Time to see what she can do against Revo's..lol

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...4&d=1255703523

Look at me thinking I had an original idea with lipos on either side and a Traxxas tranny. :lol:

Good luck at the AMS and your LST really looks like a great racer. How do those shocks handle the weight of the LST?

Well since going with carbon fiber everything including carbon fiber 8T 2.0 shock towers and much lighter E-revo tranny the LST is about the same weight as a RTR 2.0T converted truggy. So running 40wt/35wt and its dialed. Not sure how dialed compared to the big boys at this event, but we will see what she can do.

For the aftershock,LST1 this is correct, for the LST2,XXL it is like the buggy axles where the pin goes through w/grub set screw due to a different design.

Yeah, I was pretty sure they went on with pins, cuz the ones I got on eBay didn't come with them, so I used the ones that were already on there from the rotten prolines that I replaced.

Also MC, I think a little slop in the shock mount is to prevent the shafts from snapping with every little bump. I reead somewhere that if you keep them a kiss loose, you'll be less apt to snapping shafts if you bump something.

I made the shock tower stiffener thingys to try them. They take some flex away but not all of it. Maybe like 60% less flex than before. I also went with M4 screws for the shock towers and shocks, it seems to be a popular thing on the LST forums and I like it. My yellow springs finally came in.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ock_tower1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ock_tower2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ock_tower3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ock_tower4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ock_tower5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ock_tower6.jpg

I bought 5 sets of those RC Raven springs and they seem to be good. What I really liked about them was that they dont really require any of those ugly shock spacers like the stockers do - the price was REALLY nice - about 30 bucks or so for 5 complete sets.

To really stiffen the shock tower, you might also try putting a spreader bar across the backside of the shocks. It will help give a little more "I" value to the cross section.

Right now, I'm satisfied with having just a little flex. I'm afraid that if I make the towers too stiff, it might create breakage of other parts. The towers never broke or failed, it's just that the amount of flex they had was bugging me.

The brackets I made for the battery boxes are doing very well. I think I will go ahead with the making of the new chassis top plate with wings. It would make the whole chassis/batt box assembly a little cleaner with a bit less hardware. I just need to find the funding for another 9X14 CF sheet. If I can't then I might make it out of 6061 T6 alu since I have enough left to make a top plate. The rest of the truck is also doing very well except for the inner bearings of the rear knuckles. They are starting to seize so time for me to hit Avid RC for some new bearings. I made a thicker rear sway bar that is 3.1 mm in diameter. Good for racing I would say but a little stiff for bashing.

That's great news then Ray!

One of my clients works at a manufacuturing plant that builds all kinds of stuff from steel and aluminium. He was in my office one day, so I asked him if he could get me scraps. He said he could. so I showed him what thickness I was looking for (2.5-4mm) and that I preferred 7075. So yesterday he walks into my office, hands me an 8"x48" sheet, and left! I was with a client, so I didn't get to ask him what kind it was. Plus, I didn't want to appear to be ungrateful.

So, is there any way of knowing? It's as thick as a stock Losi chassis. It has a shiney, dull mirror or almost chrome look to it, and the entire sheet has some flex, but is pretty stiff. I bet that smaller pieces would be nearly unbendable. How lucky is that?!

Advice?

Call and ask him, heh!