New testing today - same result with the gears... I took a short course and just replaced the stripped gear with a new one, and hoped it would hold up - guess I was wrong.. Nice log though:

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/stadion_20100703.jpg

Now I will put in some of my older used gears, they have held up to a lot of abuse, but the chances are slim imo.

9000 watt:surprised:

Holy Boogerballs. 9KW!

No wonder why the gears didn't hold up to it.

Anyhow - I switched to my old, well proven, gears from the 6s Setup. My 5 years old daughter drove 4:30 before another tie-rod was bent. The log said she was up to 7.5kW, so definitely less, but the sound of the gears just sound more healthy.. I'll have to order a kit of the bullet-proof ones as well.

You have to shim them precisly too, only some tenth of milliter play can do the things wrong at thoses power levels :(

They have been very precisely shimmed indeed. I think they have been slightly too much hardened. The 2 year old gears from the old 6s truck likely has become softer and more flexible, apart from smoother. Newly broken ones to the left and the old working ones to the right.

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/h_...vs_vanliga.jpg

Hum.... they arent helical ! I am very surprised that in a truck as heavy as the savage hpi did'nt use helical diffs... You need maybe to put less power on the rear diff, by decreasing the oil in the center diff, that would even more provide the wheelies. But the front tires will maybe balloon :lol::lol:

Quick bit of mathes/googling reveals that 9kw = 12 horse power. OMGWTFBBQ! :lol:

So, today I made alternative tie rods from the parts of the older upper arms and a stainless M5 rod.

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/new_ties.jpg

It held up to 3~4 "full" speed crashes/rolls. My old gears also went in the truck - and surprisingly it held up to the power! I did 5 minutes of driving on packed, dried mud, but also a few runs on asphalt. Heating becomes a real problem after 5 minutes, so I have to get the cooling in place. (still waiting for the stuff)

After a few minutes of driving I measured the temp on the center diff and the motor, the diff was 10degC higher than the motor. At the end of the driving the motor was 80degC, so I guess the lifetime will be "limited"..

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/st...den_h_ller.jpg

So far, grass is the worst in terms of Amp draw.

I have seen this before with my setup... after about 5 mins, the when checking the temps of the motor i checked to see how hot the center diff got... to my surprise the CD was 150° F and motor was 120° F:surprised:... very interesting stuff...

Alien

Yeah, I'll for sure change to loctite 278 for the screws and check the temp limit for the silicone...

I thought it was insane, when i pulled 2684 watts on 6s with a 2250. Granted it was the 100amp eagletree and i think it pulled higher, but the Eagletree was limited 124 amps. I bow to the king of 1/8 horsepower. we need a bowing smiley on the forum

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/w...ys/worship.gif http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...ingForward.gif http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...wingSmiley.gif http://static.rankone.nl/site_images.../4/bowdown.gif

This is crazy!!!!! Ridiculous PowA!!!! im sorry but how do your pinions hold up? I have just shredded an HPI Pinion in 4 sets of batteris!!! Nearly 2 hours of running only!!!!

Im thinking a plastic spur is the only way to cure this but i dont think it could handle it either?

HPI pinions are crap. Buy some of RCMikes hardened pinions.

Your truck is ballistic!!

EDIT: I see your are having some real pinions probs, sorry to hear that. RCM has been holding up great here (Flux XL, RC8Te and Hyper Mini STe). I'm moving to an MBX6Te soon (when Mike will ship the conversion kit that I ordered last week) so hopefully my pinions will hold on that new rig!