Whenever you hit the Submit button, and it doesn't look like it is working, you tend to hit the Submit button a few more times, and for every time you hit the Submit button, a reply is posted.

MC....How are the stock diffs still treating you?

I haven't had the chance to fix my ERBE since I hit a rock at full speed on 6S three weeks ago :lol:
We moved to a bigger house on March 16th and I have been too busy with unpacking. I also have been shopping for stuff to finish the garage the way I want. I just started working on the ERBE yesterday and I am rebuilding it with the stock diffs. My son's GERBE is still running strong with the stock diffs but he only runs on 4S lifepo4.
I seriously think that whatever diffs or gears or shafts are used, everything will perform great with a good slipper that is adjusted the right way. It has to slip quite a bit to protect that drive train if someone wants to abuse their ERBE and have some real fun. If you're doing standing back flips, that slipper is too tight. In order for the ERBE slipper to slip enough, it needs those aluminum pads, the stock ones are not up to snuff to enough slipping action that will protect the drive train. I'm just saying all this from my own experience from my style of driving which is hard. Not crazy hard with the intent to break the truck, just hard bashing (no more racing) with repeated high jumps, fast speeds in grass, asphalt, gravel, dirt...

It's all in the slipper, with a good slipper adjusted right, even Integy parts could be used in the drive train :lol:

I agree 100%!

This is even true, heh!

OOPS! :oh:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._baja_body.jpg

And what is the solution for a hot motor and ESC with cool batteries? I am geared with 65 spur, 17 pinion with stock diffs. Am I under geared? Should I go to a 19 or 20 tooth pinion?. When I brought the truck in, the fan was on. The temps read 148 ESC, 151 motor and 90 batteries.

MC, Im geared the following

Stock diffs, 1/8 scale CD
2200 castle Nue
4s
68t spur, 20t pinion and I still get good temps on everything as well

I was running 6S today, maybe it was geared so high that it was over revving? I'll try a 20 T pinion tomorrow.

I have 54t spurgear and 20t pinion. Cooler engine and ride on 4S LiPo. Temperature is good.
http://wgeronimo.rajce.idnes.cz/Past...1082009503.jpg

Hey MC I have a quick question for you. Are those stock summit axles? I was asking a guy at my LHS, and he said that they are shorter due to the width of the Summits' locking diff. Is this true, or can I go ahead and order myself a set. Thanks

I, personally, don't own a Summit, but I have read that one side is shorter, and one side is longer, it is because of the locking diff.

Thanks rawfuls, thats exactly what I was told. But I see MC rocking them and I was wondering how.

PS. I didnt mean to necro an old thread, but I read this like a bible.

Probably got the longer ones, ripped out the boots, and trimmed them down.
Possible?

That. Or he bought two kits and used the longer ones from the two.

Nevermind. I found my answer. So much info in here, that it sometimes gets annoying when youre trying to find one thing, lol.

Interesting experiment
 

I already have LST XXL diffs in my E-Revo, I have been running them for a long time in Revos and they always have performed flawlessly. Since I recently made a LST conversion to brushless, I have a lot of spare parts for both trucks lying around. So I started slapping things together as an experiment and the result is very interesting.

The reason I did it was the LST diffs. I always thought that the rest of the LST drive train would be so cool to have on the Revo but I always thought it would be too difficult. First thing is to replace the Traxxas slider shafts with LST XXL CVDs.

This is a stock Traxxas Revo axle carrier with a LST 15X21 mm bearing pushed in it. It fits very tight but it does fit.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xperiment1.jpg

The outer 8X16 LST bearing won't fit in the carrier so the hole would have to be enlarged. It could be done easily by someone who has some machining equipment.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xperiment2.jpg

I didn't want to mess with the stock carriers so I tried with a RD Racing carrier instead which uses 16 mm OD outer bearings. The inner 15X21 bearing fits in the carrier a tad loosely. A thin sleeve would be needed to get rid of the slack. For the experiment, I just put one layer of Gorilla tape on the outer race of the bearing and it fit in the carrier perfectly. So the sleeve would have to be pretty thin.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xperiment7.jpg

The axle sticks out a lot from the carrier so a thick spacer would be needed to slip on the axle between the outer bearing and the hex drive. For the experiment, I just used two 8X16 bearings and three thin shims.

I don't know what the axle sticking out this much would do to the bearings, but when I put a zero offset Truggy wheel on there, it is just 3 mm narrower than the stance of my E-Revo with 1/2 inch offset wheels.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xperiment4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xperiment5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xperiment3.jpg

I used one of Monster Mike's hardened steel drive cup with a 6 mm bore to fit on the output shafts of the LST diffs. I made the output shafts from Traxxas stub axles so this set up could actually be used with stock Traxxas E-Revo diffs. The pic shows the suspension at full extension. The pin from the shaft is still well into the drive cup so I think it would not pop out like the Traxxas CVDs do when using the extended rear arms (frog legs)
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xperiment6.jpg

I did the rear and it works very freely with no binding. I haven't done it to the front yet but I suspect that the LST CVDs won't have enough articulation to work with the amount of steering throw I have on my Revo. We'll see.

For the middle shafts, sadly the LST middle shafts are a bit too short.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xperiment8.jpg

But this could be dealt with by having a slightly longer shaft coming out of the tranny. If there was a way to make a CVD shaft fit on a middle shaft hub, it would solve the problem since that CVD looks to have the right length.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xperiment9.jpg

This is for the rear middle shaft, for the front, I still don't know, something custom would have to be made I suppose.

This is it, just something I did this afternoon 'cause I was bored.

For the center drive shafts I use the KD center dog bone kit ( I know how much you like his Revo chassis), with Moster Mikes 8 mm drive cups on my lst diffs. I had to mod the rear center dog bones a tad, and the front drive shaft fits perfect... they have worked flawlessly for almost 2 months....

MC, the CVD shaft looks so beefy. how thick are they?

The LST CVD shafts are 5 mm thick, they are indeed beefy. As for the Kershaw dog bones, if they work well, that would solve the middle shaft issue. So there you have it, a complete 8th scale drive train is doable on the E-Revo. If the V3 Hybrid diffs from Mike would still be available, the whole process would be ''bolt on'' with no modifications needed. Except for the sleeve needed for the bearing in the RD Racing carriers or enlarging the hole for the outer bearing in a stock carrier. I still haven't tried to install the LST CVDs in the front of the E-Revo. It would probably work but might limit the steering throw for people who did the Slayden steering mod.

This is for BrianG
 

:lol:

I didn't have major heat issues with the MMM in my ERBE but under very hard bashing, going at it non stop for 25/30 until the LVC kicks in, the motor would reach temps close to 180. So for extra protection, I put this fan on. Got it from ebay, it wasn't meant to fit the CC 1515 but I made it fit by sawing off 1/3 of the heat sink, then spreading the part left to make it fit snug on the motor. Held with two zip ties. :mdr:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...motor_fan1.jpg

After a hard bashing today, I checked the temp of the motor to see if that fan helped. It was 145 down from 178. That is quite an improvement.

Maybe a winter project
 

I got my hands on some GorillaMaxx G3R chassis rails from Monster Mike. I wanted to get as many G3R parts as I could but these are the only things I could find. The reason being that I have been thinking of making my own G3R chassis. From studying the instructions, I figured there was two components that would be difficult to fabricate, the chassis rails and the front skid which has a couple bends in it. The rest looks to be made from flat stock, aluminum spacers and stand offs of the right length. So I would just need to figure out the dimensions of every components and make them. I think I can cut down on the number of parts to fabricate by cutting up a 3.3 nitro Revo chassis to use the front portion and part of the rear portion. I still don't know if the E-Revo tranny fits on the G3R chassis rails but I could figure it out. Since the tranny is more to the center of the chassis, I might be able to switch it around and have the motor in front. I am still scouring the internet to try to find other parts, especially that front skid but new parts are rare. A complete roller would be awesome but this seems to be even harder to find in good condition at a fair price. I'll update if I go ahead with this project.

I loved racing with Panther Pythons on Traxxas dish wheels with Racers Edge two stage foam inserts. The Pythons were worn so I unglued them with acetone to reuse the dish wheels and the inserts. I bought some Panther Plow boys thinking they had the same bead as the Pythons. They have a square bead that didn't fit the Traxxas dish wheels. I was disappointed so this is what I did to make them fit on the wheels. I just cut off the square bead.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1283783256 http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1283783256 http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1283783256 http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1283783256 http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1283783256
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1283783256 http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1283783256

I have 9 or 10 runs on these tires. They work pretty darn good. Good traction on a lot of surfaces and they don't seem to wear too fast.

If you do this, don't discard the square beads that were cut off, keep them they are good and thick elastics that you can use to hold the side of tires on the wheels to glue them.

Lastly, I cleaned my tires with water and dish soap before taping and gluing them. I tossed them in the dryer to dry them in a hurry. I found that Gorilla Tape sticks like crazy on hot tires with almost no wrinkles. When you tape your tires, heat them up first. Give it a try.

If you mount them backwards I'd reckon they'd double as paddle tires for sand ??

I like them, might have to consider a set myself. Holes in the rims is a nice easy way to spruce up the rims also, nice job Ray.

You're right about flipping them to use as paddles. I haven't tried it but thought about it. I will try it for sure. Yeah holes in dish wheels dresses them up a bit but don't look at the holes in those wheels :lol: They are very badly done. :mdr:

Well, Your fired then for poor workmanship ?

MC- I really like the Panther Plowboys as well! They were a huge seller back in the day with the beginning of brushless powered Emaxxes. The set I had was great, lots of traction and didn't wear out...

I've been thinking of trying a set again.

Hey MC, how do you use acetone to remove the glue? Just pour some in the bead and let it dissolve?

I know you're not talking to me but...
I saw somebody use an entire pot of Acetone and just dumped wheel after wheel and said it did the job..
Not sure how Acetone is sold, probably not in buckets! :neutral:

The automotive paint supply store is the cheapest place to buy it buy the gallon

FYI, Try bakeing. It's free, takes about 30-45minutes, easy to moniter the progress, no mess, doesnt hurt the rubber or the rims (just smells, use stove exhaust fan)
The heat crystalizes the CA and once it cools just flakes right off.

Awesome. Thanks for the fast replies. And at what temp do I bake them at?

HOLY CRAP!! Thanks!! :yipi:

The amount of info in this thread is unbelievable! Great Job Mr. Crash!

I saw you were asking about the mip axles well I have gone through a lot of axles thats for sure. I blew through the stocks in no time I got a set of traxxas axles and before I knew about buying the larger cups I could not keep them in my eRevo. So I got another set of axles off of flea bay from china made by bestRC they didn't even last through a full set of batts at 6s. So after spending way to much money on axles and not really getting any help I got the MIPs there are a very nice product but I don not think they did much fitment testing on the eRevo. They went together very easy and are a very strong product! The things I do not like about them is the fit on the spindles. Where the shaft goes into the bearing it the shoulder of the shaft doesn't even cover the whole bearing and considering the fact the the bearing isn't very wide I was a little unhappy. I was willing to over look that but when I put on the wheel adapters there was slop in the spindle that would let the shaft slide back and forth to much for me. I ended up shimming it to make them work and to tighten up the play in the front shaft. If you are interested I can take some photos of the issues I am talking about. The bad thing is that these axles set me back around 80 bucks and like you I don't mind paying the money for a well built product I just don't like spending that money on something I have to change to make it work. By the way thanks for all of this info!!! You have helped me so much and have done a ton of leg work that I wont have to do so I thank you.

Remember my little experiment in post #655? I spent a couple hours fitting LST XXL CVD shafts on my ERBE. There is still testing to be done, I will test on 6S with a couple of brand new Hyperion 45C/90C 500 mah lipos. The way I installed the shafts makes for a wider track, about ¾’’ wider so to get roughly the same track as before, I could use zero offset wheels. I only have ½’’ offsets so the truck is wiiiiiide.

Here is what I used.
- 4 Losi LST XXL CVD shafts (ebay)
- 4 15X21X4 bearings (Avid)
- 4 8X15X4 bearings (Avid)
- 1 set of RD Racing axles (Been running those since around 2004, same set)
- 1 set of Traxxas 17 mm hexes that have been bored to 8 mm with a 3 mm hole for the pin
2 Losi LST XXL diffs (I’ve been running LST diffs for a long time, details are in my thread)
- I used 2 RC Monster drive cups in the rear and 2 RCBest drive cups in the front, reason is, that’s what I had available. If the RCBest cups fail I will replace them with RC Monster cups.
I had a few 8X15X4 bearings from my LST that were gritty but I still kept them, I cut the outer race and used the inner race for shims behind the hexes.

Here’s the wide truck, either run it like that or use zero offset wheels or if you have the means to drill hardened steel then make a new hole in the right place to reposition the hexes close to the axle carriers.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...st_shafts5.jpg

Pic of the rear.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...st_shafts4.jpg

RC Monster drive cups in the rear

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...st_shafts3.jpg

RCBest drive cups in the front

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...st_shafts2.jpg

Here’s a close up of the shimming, two bearing inner race with two 0.3 mm shims on each wheel. I think the best way would be to make a new hole to bring the hexes close to the carriers. I will try it like that for now but I’m just worried of what this will do to the outer bearings.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...st_shafts1.jpg

A pic of what I did to pic up the slop of the inner 15X21X4 bearing in the RD Racing axle carrier. The perfect bearing would’ve had a 21”5 mm OD but I don’t think they exist so I put a piece of Gorilla tape around half of the bearing and it fits snug. Time will tell if the tape holds up. If not then I’ll use a shim made of thin metal like brass.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...st_shafts6.jpg

I'll probably find time to try it this weekend if it doesn't rain.

Nice. Thanks for the good info on bearing sizes etc. I hope that it won´t be any rain:whip:

No problem. I couldn't wait so I charged up the Hyperions and went at it in my favorite construction site. Those Hyperions are powerful I tell ya. From my experience with this ERBE, with the outside temp being around 50 degrees, and the level of abuse I put the truck through, I can say that for a first test, the shafts are very strong. I seriously doubt that the stock shafts or even Summit shafts would have survived. I also did a couple dozen full throttle starts from a stand still on the side walk. My throttle control is set too high and my slipper too loose to do standing back flips, but it went 3/4 of the way ending on the lid each time. Even these full throttle starts on high grip sidewalks didn't faze the shafts.
I could set the throttle control to zero and tighten the slipper but the center shafts are still stock so I would probably twist or snap those on 6S. The only option that I know of to replace the center shafts is the Kershaw Design dogbones.

Is it G3´s you are running? Overall hyperion are top notch indeed:yes:

Sounds really good in my ears! It´s a shame that it´s so costy to ship things one country to another, otherwise I would have sent you a set of summit shafts for the center and my "locked slipper mod" plate and let you try that drivetrain out for real...:neutral:

I´excited to see how they hold up In the long term. Get some runtime with those Hyperions and report back to us:yipi:. They should hold up tho... Seems to me like you never broke them on the Losi XXL? And that was with 40series mashers and 6s? Am I right?

And thanks for everything you have done so far Mr, It´s really helping people, newbies and oldies your work are outstanding! :oops:.

Yes they are G3s, they don't seem to break a sweat. My Turnigys Nanotech are usually around 110/115 after a full run. The G3s were just above 90. I am going to tighten the slipper as much as I can without breaking it. Yes I ran these shafts on the LST on 6S. The truck was 14 pounds RTR. In a whole summer of running, I only broke a shaft once, the pin that goes through the CVD and that little barrel shaped part that holds the grub screw. On a 10 pound ERBE, I suspect that they are going to be very tough. We'll see. I ran Summit shafts in the middle before. They are more durable but they get quite sloppy though. I really want to try the Kershaw dogbones and have a drive train with minimal slop.

Yeah, I have had My G3´s for more then a year now, and I have charged them with 4C almost everytime and they are still performing good. Nice, that will give it a real "try out". "We'll see. I ran Summit shafts in the middle before" So.. aren´t you running summit shafts in the middle now?:oh:

How about the traxxas steel centers? Is it that simple that you just don´t like them for some reason or is it because you have to drill them up to make them fit on the diff´s outputs?

You could use a Rc monster cup on the diff side...No drilling required.. Since they are dogbone looking on one side:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYCU2&P=7