I'm not running them now, I had to replace them with stock ones because they became so sloppy that they were about to fail. What's on my truck now is the stock middle shafts with RCM drive shaft coupler with 8 mm bore to match my LST XXL diffs.

The Traxxas middle CVDs would have been a very good option also, I just didn't think of it. The Kershaw dogbones with RCM drive cups (8mm bore) are on the way so I will try those. If it doesn't work out then it will be the Traxxas way.

Aha I see, that is quite amazing that you made the whole run without breaking them. I´m only running 4s and I wear them out crazy stupid fast in the rear..That is with my slipper locked tho.. Maybe it´s less wear with 6s and the slipper a bit loose.

Let´s hope the kershaws holds up good then! I will try the traxxas ones I think... I don´t want to deal with dan...To afraid to be fooled:whip:

Can´t wait to see the progress.

I'm taking another chance with Dan, I'll see how it works out. I was a little bothered by the wide track of my ERBE with those LST XXL shafts so I decided to see what I could do to bring the track back to normal. It was simple enough, the axles of the shafts are hardened steel but not quite hard enough to keep from using ordinary drill bits on them. I made new 3 mm holes to reposition the hexes where I wanted them and used an ordinary but good quality M5 tap to make deeper threads inside the axles for the grub screw to go further in.

Here's the new hole. I measured the center of the hole to be 19.5 mm from the tip of the axle.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...st_shafts7.jpg

Installed on a spare RD Racing axle carrier with a thick aluminum shim that is used on the pinion of an LST XXL diff.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...st_shafts8.jpg

So I don't have to measure each time to drill the holes, I made a jig from a scrap piece of metal. The axle slips into it and I just have to insert the drill bit in the correct hole. This block of metal was used for many other projects as a jig so that's why there are many holes in it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...st_shafts9.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t_shafts10.jpg

I now have LST shafts on with the correct track width on the truck.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t_shafts11.jpg

Now this is cool, I just modified a stock axle carrier to accept a 15X21 inner bearing and a 8X16 outer bearing so the LST XXL shafts could be used with the stock axle carriers. The 15X21 bearing presses right in using a 5/8'' socket and a vise. The opening for the outer bearing has to be enlarged to accept the 8X16 bearing. This brings the total cost of parts needed way down. I'll post pics this weekend.

I made a mistake when I listed the materials for this mod, I wrote that the outer bearing was 8X15 but it is really 8X16.

Pressing the 15X21 inner bearing in the axle carrier.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._carriers1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._carriers3.jpg

The outer bearing opening was enlarged just enough so that the outer 8X16 bearing could be pressed in also. This makes both bearings nice and snug with no play.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._carriers2.jpg

A full set of stock axle carriers with LST XXL CVD shafts ready for use. This took me just under 40 minutes to make.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._carriers4.jpg

Great job! Now I have a straight forward guide to do the converison:yipi: Thanks alot.

The jig tip is brilliant.

I have one question tho, you said and showed that you enlarged the hole for the outer bearing, no big deal, but the inner one then? The 15x21? Did you actualy press it in the 12x18 stock bearings seat without makeing the seat bigger?:surprised: Did you use a regular metal drill to do the outer bearing seat bigger?

Once again, Great job!

The carriers sit flat when the outer bearing opening is up so I chucked this carbide burr in the small benchtop drillpress.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...rbide_bit1.jpg

Then I just adjusted the height so that the bit just misses that lip onto which the bearing sits and I slowly remove material going in a circular motion, doing my best to stay center. Not the most precise way of doing it but it works.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...rbide_bit2.jpg

The inner bearing doesn't sit in the 18 mm space for the stock 12X18 bearing, the round opening in the carrier before the space for the stock bearing is just the right dimension to press that 15X21 bearing in. This bearing will sit on the lip create by the stock opening for the 12X18 bearing.

I see. Thanks a bunch. Now I just have to figure out how to get the lst diffs or similar in there without removing any material from the bulkhead. Or maybe I can do as you did and grind off the housing so I don´t have to remove so much from the bulks..Maybe it will hold up with the aluminium chassis...

Happy bashing.

This is interesting.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1289843962

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1289844003

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1289844022

Still in concept form. It is based on the GorillaMaxx G3R but can be used with different trannies like the 3.3 or the E-Revo or Maxx. It also incorporates a space for a steering servo in the rear for people who wish to go with 4 wheel steering.

Also, disk brakes at the wheels are being studied.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1289844043

Who's design? That looks awesome!

Very nice and good looking, is it your design? No? I know It´s just a concept I just want to say it, a front bulkhead in the rear will result in negative caster:neutral: but maybe it won´t mess the handling up that much.. And for those who don´t want to use rear wheel steering, where are they going to attatch their rear pushrods?:oops: Neither can I see how the motor is supposed to be mounted with a 3.3 gearbox:whistle:

BUT! I really really like the design! It´s good looking! And as you said, it´s just a concept:mdr: This is exciting:party:

Give us mooooooooore!

Cool concept, it has my interest, I loved my gmaxx chassis, when I had it, and would love to have a one of these as well.... can you provide any more info MC?

wow, that looks amazing.

No this is not my design at all, someone else came up with it. Any criticism or comments shouldn't be directed at me but at the designer. And you'll have to communicate those in French. This was taken from a post I saw on the website from France. Revopowaaa This would be the thread where I found the pics. Thread.

This is with the 3.3 tranny.

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/5...lentboite3.png

I thought it was interesting and I'm sure that if he ever decided to manufacture this chassis, he would be nice enough to make a version with front wheel steering only.

Thanks Mc. I can´t belive that he is just 19 years old! I feel ashamed when I look at my build now:party:

I received the Kershaw dogbones for the ERBE yesterday. They are 5 mm thick so they are as beefy as the LST XXL shafts and they ''look'' good. The rear shaft barely fit, it should be a couple mm shorter. The front one didn't fit at all. It is too long. I had to Dremel the slots in the diff cups to make the shaft go deeper so that it could finally fit. Even with that done, it is a little too tight for my taste. This shaft should be 3 mm shorter at least. Being too long and fitting as tight as they do on the length, they don't give a lot of room for chassis flex. The rain has finally stopped up here so I will get my punch control to zero and start doing repeated standing back flips to see if a true 8th scale drive train holds up running the ERBE on 6S.

MC I had to grind the ends of the rear dogbones to get it to fit...the front fit like a gove...Ive been using them for many months now without problem....I hope you have the same luck i have had!

Good to know that they are tough. I wonder how many standing back flips can be done with a couple 3S 5000 mah Hyperions G3s :lol:

I'll have to keep count.

I charged up my two 3S 5000 mah Hyperion G3s and went out to test this 8th scale drive train I have. The slipper is locked (as tight as I can get it without breaking it) and the MMM punch control set at 0. I was curious to find out how many standing back flips I could get from the Hyperions.

I still don't know how many standing back flips can be done with those Hyperions. I stopped at 100. Yes! 100 consecutive standing back flips! Or attempts I should say, they were not all beautiful to watch :lol:

Most of them had the truck land on the nose, or wing, or the front of the body, or sending the truck cart wheeling. But what is important here is that every of those 100 standing back flips were done the same way. On the extremely high bite surface of the new sidewalks in front of my house, going to full throttle from a stand still.

I lost body clips, the front body posts are grinded off, the rear wing broke and my F650 body is absolutely done for. So what's the verdict on the 8th scale drive train?












































Drum roll.....























































Everything looks fine! The CVD shafts, the drive cups, the center dogbones, it all held up to this grueling testing I did today. I'm very happy.

I am glad to see all your hard work has paid off. This thread as always has been a huge help. I am going to start doing my lst diff swap very soon I have gone through 4 Revo diffs in a very short period of time and it sad. I hope my swap comes out as nice as your has.

I really like you 1/8 drivetrain! I'll do something like that on my ERBE.

I just wonder why don`t you use a set of RPM axle carriers?? You need no mods to fit those bearings on them ..

I ran RPM carriers once, I hated them. The pivot balls would pop out of them worst than the old style Traxxas carriers. And I don't recall that they use a 8X16 outside bearing. I think it's a 15 mm OD bearing. But the plastic of RPM parts is so soft, you could probably press a 16 mm bearing in that 15 mm hole. :mdr:

I thought about the Tekno carriers, they use a 16 mm OD outer bearing but I don't think there's any way of making a 21 mm OD inner bearing in them.

Some pics of the LST XXL CVDs installed on my ERBE with stock axle carriers.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._carriers6.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._carriers7.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._carriers5.jpg

The middle pic shows that the pivot balls are a bit too far out outside the A arms and that's because the diff output cups I installed before taking the pics were too long. I changed the cups for shorter ones that came with the Kershaw dogbone set and now the pivot balls are screwed all the way in the arms the way I like them.

Mr. Crash, You would be able to tell me the Distance between the Stock holes on the Axle? From where the CVD Pin goes through the axle to where the Hex Pin goes through the axle? And distance between the hole you drilled in the axle and CVD Pin hole.? And Lastly. Length of your CVD Pin to Pin. I have been tinkering with some 17mm Hubs and 8mm Axles. I appreciate your time...

Thank You Sir...

I measured the axle from pin to pin to be 136 mm. From the axle pin to the hole I made I measured 20 mm. I use a 2 mm aluminum shim behind the hexes to keep them away from the bearing. It's the shim that goes between the two bearings of the pinion in the LST diffs.

Thank You Sir. I appreciate you taking the time to measure those for me...:smile:

I'd like to say thank you, mistercrash. Your documentary thread and photos really helped in my own LST diff/CVA conversion. I used 8x14x4 bearings instead on the outside of the hub carrier...if they prove to be too small I will move to the 8x16x4 you used.

:yipi:

8X14X4? I thought the stock carriers used a 6X15X5 bearing. Maybe I'm remembering wrong. Anyway, I chose to use the 8X16X5 bearings because they are pretty common and easy to find cheap. But the carriers need to be slightly modified. Someone found some 8X15X5 bearings so he didn't have to mod the carriers. The only place I found 8X15X5 bearings with rubber seals is at Boca Bearings. At 10 buck per bearings, I prefer to modify my carriers to use the 8X16 that cost a buck a piece.

I'm glad that the mod is working for you and you're welcomed. I was on an Hawaiin cruise last January and got to visit the Island of Hilo a little bit. I thought it was absolutely beautiful, a little too rainy for my taste but gorgeous.

I'm using the axles off the LST too, hence the 8mm ID. I got them off of Boca as an econo ten pack (part number 99MR148-2RS-X10, cost me $9 for ten). I didn't bother looking for other dimensions since the price was so good. (:

Glad you enjoyed your cruise! :yes: Hilo is very pretty but the reason everything's green is cause it does rain a lot.

I know this may sound like taking a step back but has any one tried to put the stock lst diff in and use the stock axles? I know you wouldn't be able to change the cups and from the looks of it you would have to build the bulkheads around the diffs, but you also would have to mod the diffs. Also if anyone has done this do the axle lengths match up well? I have just finished up my lst diff swap after blowing through 6 diffs in my E-Revo and I am very happy.

You mean the stock Traxxas axles (sliders) with the LST diffs? Yes that's what I ran for a long while. You need to take 4 extra Traxxas axles and cut the threaded part plus about 1 mm and replace the LST output cups with these modified Traxxas axles. The stock Traxxas sliders can fit on the LST diffs with no problem. Or you could get 4 of Monster Mikes 1/8 diff output shafts if you don't want to modify the Traxxas axles.

I don't understand your comment of ''building the bulkheads around the diffs''. Do you mean to modify the bulkheads to match the LST diffs? If that's the case, it is better to modify the diff casings to fit in the bulkheads. There's only one part of the case that can't be changed and that's where the front screws are. That is where the bulkheads need to be modified, just to make enough room for that front part of the diff case where the screws are. Very minimal material is taken off the bulkheads. If you try to fit the bulklheads around the diffs without modifying the diff cases, way too much material is taken off the bulkheads and they will break easily.

I think I wasn't very clear with my question. I was asking is anyone hasn't changed the out put shafts on the LST diffs and ran them with LST axles like you did on your Revo. I know that the bulk heads have to be shaved in a few areas from your post and from when I did mine to make them fit. I guess I still might not be very clear on what I am trying to say. Keep the LST diffs stock shave them on the top to clear the chassis, but build the bulkheads around them. If you keep the LST diffs stock they wont fit through the slots cut like the stock ones do. You would not be able to get your diff out without taking your bulkheads apart but you also would have to swap the stubs over inside the diff. This was something I was kicking around and was curious if anyone else has done it or thought about doing it this way.

Ok you want to use the LST diffs as they come with the LST diff output cups right? Not replace the cups with modified Traxxas axles. Some guys have been doing it by putting an extra inner bearing in the carriers to push the LST CVD inwards towards the diff. I haven't tried that yet but I will fiddle around to see for myself if it works. By pushing the CVD towards the diff with that extra bearing, the pin meshes deeper in the LST diff output cups so that they don't pop out.

Yes Sir you got it. Thanks for the info I might build my next one with that idea. I have LST diffs in m e Revo now with MIP axles and I have been really happy with the performance. I wanted to run the MIP center cvds on it because I thought it would be a lot simpler until I realize that they wouldn't work on the LST diff pinion shaft. I looked and my axles and there isn't really enough meat on them to drill them out, and at 50 bucks for the set I figured that would be a bad idea. After looking at a few of your pictures of center axles and drive axles I was curious if the drive axle would be long enough to fit in the center? If you took the stub off the drive axle and put the end off the center shaft. It looks like it would either be too long or just right from the picture. Also, my plastic center shafts are junk now I cant keep a set screw in them, and they are twisted pretty bad. Can you tell me what shafts you used and cups and where you got them all in one post like a parts list? I saw them on here but they were in a few different post. Thanks for the help like always this thread has really helped me along my way. Also I would agree with you on RPM carriers they are junk the bearings don't fit snug and move a few mm back and forth in them. I am sure that is the same problem you had with them.

My bearings fit perfect in my RPM carriers..

The problem most have with them, is pivot`s popping out.. I think the RPM`s are supposed to use the metal rings around pivot`s on the inside of the carrier. They fit 100% perfect (very tight too), so i suspect it`s ment to be like that.
You have to take the metal rings from stock carriers though, since they dont come with the RPM`s..

Not sure it cures the problem 100%, but i think so.

That also may be true but I have a set of very new true track a arms and carriers and they have fit like junk since day one. When I was putting everything together the bearing would fall out if you flipped them upside down. After reading a lot of forums I wish I didn't buy that set up because of issues just like the ones I am having. I would run there a arms again, but I am sure that I personally will never be running any of the carriers on anything that I own. The reason the problem because a bigger problem in my case is the fact that I put the mip axles on it and thinking I had to shim the axles to tighten things up in the rear I noticed it was the bearing moving in the carrier. I know it is the carriers because I am running stock Revo's in the front and I didnt run into any of these problems.

Sounds like you got something the slipped through RPM Quality control. I have rpm regular carriers and truetracs and the bearings fit snugly in all of them. The main reason I stopped using them is the pivot balls always popping out on me.
I have to ask....you are using the larger diameter bearings that RPM provides with the carrier and not your stock bearings, correct?

The whole setup maybe has 15 minutes of run time on them, and yes I used the brand new bearings that were sealed in the package when I got them.

This is what I use for center shafts.

E-Revo Center Dog Bone Kit

You also need two of these to fit on the 8 mm input shafts of the LST diffs. Get the ones with an 8 mm bore of course.

RC Monster Drive cup - Hardened steel

Last thing I had to do to make everything fit nicely was to cut the front part of the output shaft of the E-Revo tranny and make a new hole for the screw pin. This was needed because the RC Monster drive cups are longer and were pushing the front shaft on the tip of the tranny's output shaft and it was binding badly. I pushed the cup that comes with the Kershaw dogbones as much as I could towards the tranny case. I also had to Dremel a tiny bit on the Tranny case so the screw pin doesn't rub on it. You'll understand what I mean by that when you try to put it all together.

Having said that, I have to apologize to Dan Kershaw for saying that his E-Revo dogbones were too long to fit. They were the exact correct length, it was the RCM cups that were longer. Hey it's not my fault! I remember watching the Transformers with my son that day and while installing the Kershaw dogbones later on, I was distracted by fantasies about Megan Fox. So sorry Mr Kershaw. Man I'm glad I got that off my chest.