Made a turnbuckle for the Muggy bellcranks. I used a Traxxas Revo turnbukle with Traxxas large ball cups. I had to cut the turnbuckle to the right length so I kept the end with the left handed threads and threaded regular right handed threads on the opposite. With a hole in the middle, it was easy to adjust it to the final length I wanted.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ellcranks1.jpg

I remember reading somewhere about the turning radius of the LSTs being to wide. Running my LST, I don't really notice this lack of turning radius so I measured it. I put the truck parallel to the curb with the wheels touching it and with the wheels turned at full lock, slowly made a U turn and once the truck was parallel to the curb again at the end of my U turn, I made a mark at the front wheel. Then I measured from the curb to the mark and got 71''. So I'm asking the other LST users here, what's your turning radius?

I don't own an LST but my revo with the steering mod is around 64" which I guess could be considered alot if you drive both and can notice the difference--Josh

I reworked my rear motor support system with the other half of the HPI Flux motor mount I had left. The screw for tightening the clamp and the screw that goes through the bracket to support the motor are now on the same side and I think it looks better and cleaner. This system is working extremely well by the way.

You might notice that there's a little bit of a rough edge in the opening of the top chassis plate for the steering linkage. I had to grind a half a millimeter off to clear the linkage's ball cup. It was knocking on the side of the opening at full steering throw. I corrected the issue in my drawing and I also made the opening for the diff's output cup a little less deep so that there is more material left between that opening and the one for the steering linkage.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_support6.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_support5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_support7.jpg

The more I play with this truck, the more I like it. The way it handles, the way it jumps, the power it has and how easy it is to work on. This thing should be named Permagrin.

AH -I never noticed that your steering linkage was on top. I scratched my head for a while trying to figure out why you had to make a clearance for it.

Nice work.

Today's damage :lol:

One broken wheel (it was cracked before so no big loss)

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ken_wheel1.jpg

And one pebble wedged in the wrong place. I was wondering why I lost steering all of a sudden.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...th_pebble1.jpg

So you lost steering but kept the throttle on and that's how you broke the wheel. And you call youself mistercrash, lol.

Not really, the wheel broke like that from hitting a rock on the construction site we were running on. I kept on going. The pebble incident happened some time later on the second set of lipos. :yes:

Hmmm... After a 40 minute run with my 3S 5800 mah lipos, the temps were lipos: 120 F, ESC: 135 F and motor: 200 F :oh:

I was not happy that my beloved NEU 1521 got up to 200 degrees. I am presently geared with a 54 tooth spur and a 23 tooth RCM pinion. I was running MT Crime Fighters which are a lot smaller then the Losi LST wheels and tires. I also noticed after the run that there was a rock wedged between the rear tranny output CVD and the chassis top plate. This might have contributed to something but I think that I'm still geared too low. I can't go smaller on the spur so I just ordered three new RCM pinions. 24, 25 and 26 tooth. I hope I can find the correct gearing with those. It was an extremely hot and humid day with no wind and I ran the truck very hard on sand and gravel jumping a 5 foot gravel hill that was dumped in an empty lot yesterday near my house. I ran non stop for the whole lipo cycle, maybe I should give this truck a break from time to time :lol:

40 minutes straight? hmm...

I tend to check temps fairly regulalylllyylyylyy, allowing a 10 minute cooling down break as required- I know some guys prefer to just run & run, but sometimes the truck doesnt :lol:

I am not sure what to think of what you just said thererererere. Stop frequently to check temps and allow to cool if needed? I should be able to run this truck as I please for a whole lipo cycle and once it hits LVC, THEN I allow everything to cool before I put a fresh set of lipos in and keep going. With the outside temperature being what it was at the time and running non stop for 40 minutes, I expected the MMM to have the fan on and the lipos to be close or at 120 degrees. But I would have been happier if the motor showed 170 or 175, not 200. I'll try a larger pinion next time (gotta wait 'till they get here) and see if the motor temp goes down a bit. I hope it does.

Thanks Neil :smile:

I updated my MMM with new settings, it was at 10° timing so I went to 0° and brought down the braking from 40% to 30%. The motor temp went down a bit from 200 to 190. ESC was at 135 and lipos at 118. It's a little better but not quite enough. The weather was pretty much the same as the other day, very hot and humid and I was running the same lipos, bashing in the same spot and doing the same things with the truck which is run it fast and jump it high. I'm thinking a motor heat sink would help.

Anyone know where I can find a good heat sink for a 40 mm motor?

How in the world did a rock get in there, :mdr: and when I yanked it out, I noticed my first breakage of a suspension component.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...th_pebble2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...front_arm1.jpg

This should fit:

8E heatsink

Thanks. Nice one, and I love that it's from Losi. I ordered one. I think it should help a lot.

I looked at that one for my build, but I don't have room for those fins with my rear bulkhead brace. So I've been working on a custom heatsink made from flat, square, cpu sinks!

edit: I want to know how the heck that rock got in there too.