OMG, you used the F word! :036: lol. No, no fans for me. I hate them (as you seem to know).

Well, it's hot compared to everything else I've run, which is 140*F at the absolute worst, and I hate electronics getting too hot. It's amazing how much the specs of the FETs are derated when the temps get that high. A 100A ESC turns into a 40A ESC.

I've been running like this simply because I'm waiting for your drop-in CRT.5 mount (hint, hint ;)). Hopefully whatever you make will allow me to still use the battery tray I spent hours making! :) I still think it would be relatively easy for someone with a mill to make a diff adaptor "cap" (in place of the stock spur) that bolts to a hollowed out Kyosho spur. This spur would slide over the diff cup. But I'll leave the designing to you.

Not that I'm trying to rush you, but if the custom mount looks like it may be a few weeks away, let me know via PM and I'll probably look at using the 20T pinion.

lol, you posted again while I was typing.

Anyway, that sucks that you spent so much time for nothing. I know how it feels. Imagine using a hand dremel to do that! Any little bit off and you have to start over. Arrgg.

I think that any solution you come up with will be most popular if there doesn't need to be any new chassis holes drilled for the diff mount. I can't see any way of using the Kyosho as-is without moving one of the diff mounts due to the rubbing - the geometry of the stock vs Kyosho are just too different IMO. Of course, if a combo diff mount/motor mount is made, there are more options since you can use pretty much any existing chassis holes and you don't necessarily need to use the standard diff mount holes.

I am right there with you on the heat, Brian(heat is the enemy), though I have no aversion to any of the "f" words really. :)

Adapting the Kyosho spur is pretty easy - a few minutes and a steady hand on the lathe is all it takes. It is tedious, though(and if you cut too much, the gear is junk - this is why I prefer cnc - the machine doesn't get distracted and make mistakes). I guess a brass spacer could allow use of the stock bearing as well(similar concept to the bore reducer). Maybe I am making it too difficult here. I wanted a custom spur(hopefully a few teeth options as well) for the best fit, but the Kyosho spurs may be the easiest and cheapest way to go.

I agree - I like to make parts that bolt in without requiring chassis mods(I take drilling and stuff for granted, as I do it every day and have the equipment - I try to make stuff for the folks that don't have these assets). Most people have an aversion to drilling holes it seems. :)
I think I could make the kyosho fit after modifying it - I could simply change the bearing depth and move the lower mount drill/tap location to offset the rubbing. Still, I am a sucker for a custom part. :)

Hey Mike I'm going to check into the custom gear thing... I'll call you if it sounds promising. If you are willing to consider outsourcing for it anyway... I know some guys who might be worth talking to. They used to machine a lot of plastic gears years ago....

I will be happy with what ever you come up with. I just ordered the little sucker and should have the truggy later this week. anyways let us know what you come up with.

Yeah, I was looking at using the Kyoshos because they were available and fairly cheap. I do know that even the 44T spur will rub the chassis, so the whole mount may have to be raised - unless a whole different spur is used (Revo?).

It's funny that such a simply little truggy could be so difficult to find a usable solution to use a plastic spur...

Dustin - I am always searching for new sources. I don't mind machining them, but if I don't have to then that makes it even sweeter.
Brian - The gear I modified was a 44 tooth kyosho - I did notice it was dangerously close to rubbing, but I didn't actually run it to verify(it rubbed the mount anyways, so I scrapped it and machined the molded gears I had here).
Tom - trust me, I will be sure to post when I have it done - I want to get mine going(could have it done, but I want to make something everyone can use) and this little unit seems to be quite popular so far(too new to tell long term, but a bolt on conversion should help). Mine may ultimately get another inch of wheelbase as well(custom chassis). :)

Well, at any rate, thanks for stopping by tonight Mike! Now get back to work! ;) J/K

LOL. I am on the forums pretty much every day, actually. I just don't log in most times - just browse the boards and see what's kickin'. I couldn't help myself hen I saw another Revo support mounted backwards, though. Besides, I wanted to mention the progress(or lack of) on this little conversion project.
:)
While I source the spur, I hope to finish the Kyosho buggy/truggy mounts and the losi 8T mounts this week(along withe a few custom/customer projects). :)

sounds good. A little longer chassis could be nice too. now as brian said get back to work :), so none of us will have to run nitro again.

thanks for the update on the 8t mounts I will be sure to order that as soon as it hits your store.

I'm not sure what I did differently but I had no issues with the 46t kyosho rubbing.

That's because you moved the front forward so the spur was still in the chassis cutout. The options I am looking at require no chassis modifications at all. One of the options I tried was to hollow out a 44T spur and slide it over the diff cup. Then I was going to find a way to secure that to the stock spur. Since the 44T spur was not in line with the gap, it rubbed ever so slightly.

I think Mike and I are on the same page as far as chassis mods go. Whatever he makes will probably drop right in with no extra holes or dremel "milling" to fit. Many people are not going to want to mod their chassis, might not have the tools and/or skill to do so right, and/or want to be able to revert back to nitro (I shudder at the thought). So it only makes sense from a sales perspective to cater to the masses. And at the same time, I think he is trying to find a solution that will be relatively inexpensive. Not too many are going to want to buy a new chassis and all kinds of extra parts for a brushless kit.

You can tell he is having a bit of difficulty with trying to get a plastic spur to work since he's already spent some time with really no forward progress - just a bit of prototyping. At least it makes me feel a bit better knowing I'm wasn't the only one to have a heck or time to figure this out! :)

So, for the time being, I designed my conversion to be functional, but with the knowledge that Mike was going to come out with something. So, things are spaced so I can replace any one thing without having to rebuild everything as well. I really hope I can keep the battery tray since that is about as perfect as I could get it. It was tough to make it support 2s, 3s, and 6 cells, while holding each type firmly and arranging everything else to be neat and tidy.

Wow, another long-winded post! I gotta stop doing this...

Hey Mike - any possibility that an extended chassis will be up for sale? I very much want an extended chassis - another 25mm would be sweet! I just don't have the equipment to do it (to do anything really)... My tools are limited to a cordless drill, hand hacksaw, a reciprocating saw (that I like to stay away from) and a compressor rotory tool (that I try to stay away from as well).

I'l also quite interested into what becomes of the spur. For now, I'm just going to use a hardned pinion with the stock spur (I'll drop you an E-Mail on that once I get my motor - I'm the one thats been inquiring about the LMT 1530). I am planning to brace the heck out of the chassis to eliminate as much flex as possible to try to help with. Also, mechanical brakes should further help gear life.