It was never said if there would be a charge just to drill the holes. There was a charge to make an RC8 fully converted out of the box though, which is fine, I expect that.

I think it would be a nice touch for him to have as an option the ability to order the mount already predrilled for a certain vehicle type at a nominal charge, say an extra $5 - $10.

That's pretty funny. I can't tell you how many RC vehicles/parts I've sold as a customer in our LHS. I'll overhear one of the employees giving insufficient/bad information to a customer, and I'll just jump in and help them out. I told them that they're going to have to start paying me one of these days. They love it when I do that.

I do the same thing at my LHS and must get a discount to near cost! I have sold alot of stuff, and have completely setup their lipo and charger inventory. I also have made countless adapters and must have soldered at least 100 traxxas connectors since they came out. They keep me busy when I go in there, that is for sure. No commision yet, but the discount is well worth it. I get the same discount as the techs!

Mr Wilson, I must say, you have some very nice looking buggies. :yes:

as for the caps, I've been running one novak 2700uf cap per esc my MM's and they reduce the heat by a good 20* F. I have two set-up this way and two that are not. The two standard ones only run 540S size motors and still get hotter than the modded ones running Neu 1512 motors.

I totally agree, I would be more than happy to pay an additional fee to have the battery tray professional drilled for my RC8. $5.00 to $10.00 sounds very doable.:yipi:

I just added a couple new goodies.
http://www.ghhobby.com/prodimages/2473.jpg

this is the steering plate for the RC8, bith upper and lower. Golden Horizon (most know their stuff as GH) is a local shop. I bought my RC8 from them and I saw all the prototype parts. Some stuff is on the website. All parts are independantly xrayed for quality, and GH ofers a Lifetime Guarantee!! This fixes the breakage, and the other companies just make the top plate, which breaks the bottom part. this is all keyed and looks sweet

http://www.ghhobby.com/products.php?cat=19 they just show the copper and titanium, but there will also be black. There is also a one piece center dif mount and steering ackerman not shown. I am waiting for my black hinge pin retainers now

oh ya, forgot to add I picked up a spektrum yesterday and a personal transponder. I got a dx3.0 because I wanted the 2 rx's and the servos. I'll use the 590 in the B44, and save the 359 in the B44 now for my nitro buggy. the 270 is good enough for throettle.

So is Titanium the color or the material?

Pipeous: Whats the weight of your vehicle fully RTR?

Also, on your 5000mah packs, what kind of runtime are you getting in race conditions?

to weigh it out, I have to take it to a friend's. we'll see next trip to go detail his truck, I'll take my rc's over for some info.

I really mean to time the run sometimes. I can only guestimate because once I get up there I am just into spanking the nitros. I am sure I am getting 30 mins plus on a smaller track. I like to brake hard and use the torque out of tight corners for inside passes and stuff because these things shine there, though for the most part I am pretty light on the throttle. I try to keep my wheels on the dirt as much as possible, then I don't have to be marshalled as much, even going over jumps I like to roll them as close to the dirt as I can. I make my mistakes coming up short sometimes.

I am going out to a track today to do some raking and shoveling, then we'll run our rc's. I haven't been to this track in a while. I'll time a run and see how long I can go, though once I get there I will be handing the controller arund the driver's stand to get us more addicts. I know once someone drives this buggy, they want one ;)

Cool stuff. My MBX5 using the 4900mah version of the Enerland cells (25C), I didn't make my runtime of 15 minutes. I did however have LOTs of wheel spin. Its funny, I seem to drive better when its like that, sort of like I know how to powerslide around the track and I think that really cut my runtime down.

I am just curious how you guys are getting runtimes near 30 minutes with 5000mah packs. maybe there is a big weight difference as well vs the MBX5, which all setup now I have in at about 8lbs.

what is your pinion that you are using?

I am running stock gearing 16/44 with the 2.5D. and as far as the pinions, I keep my mesh quite close and the pinion shows little wear.

I just redid my difs with 5k through all 3 as per the nitro team guys, so we'll see how this goes. I liked the same setup in my xray so it should get it around corners a little faster.

While I had it apart I added all the service pack parts and I noticed the front hinge pin carriers both sides of the dif had started to bend a little. things were still driveable but I saw the bend when I placed the parts on a glass table. Definately make sure you get a later release or you'll need a receipt to get your service pack. I didn't add the steering top plate.

I ran on a big track and down the straight I can hang with nitros. I think I could probably gear up a tooth or two. With a 16/44 on the rcm mount, I had to cut a couple fins on the motor case to clear the chassis brace. a smooth can wouldn't have that problem. That said, I don't really need to have more top speed, but I do need to find a line to keep the speed at the end of the straight and clear the massive triple. there's a long rhythm section though on a 180 turn after the big triple, and bottom end grunt allowed me to jump half the rhythm section and make it in 2 instead of the usual 3 and 4 jumps most guys made

thanks for the info.

How is the weight of the 2 5000mah packs you use?

Also, Did you need to do any special shimming of the diffs?

the batteries are a total of 548 grams, and yes I shimmed the insides of the center dif to tighten things up, as was recommended by Chewie on the rc tech thread. and also put a drop of ca on the nyloc nuts in the plastic parts to keep them from falling out when you have to do changes; back of shock towers, under the steering plate, wing etc

these shims, do you have a part # for them?