fiego is the best value
Ps. Any1 got a used brushless sytem for tradeE!! i got 3 revos and i cant get any of them tuned!! save me from this nitro hell!! PLZZZZZZZZZZ:cry :devil :cry :devil :cry

Thanks for Input. One last question (I hope...):

Let's stay with this two setups:
a) BK 20XL/7 (kv: 2145, about 95 amps)
b) BK 20L/10 (kv: 2212, about 60 amps)

KV and so top speed is nearly equal. What about the run time?

Does the 10L really has a noticeable longer run time because of the less amps? Or does the more torque of the 7XL is balancing this?
Does the 10L is more kindly to the drive train while accelerating?

Thanks again
-- Dave

I never had a 10L, but I give it a guess:
Runtime should be more or less equal, I think.
If you have a twitchy throttle finger, the 10L should be more forgiving on the driveline.

In the end, it's up to you. Both are great motors, no doubt.

Get the 7XL the best motor money can buy.. It runs silcky smooth if you want it.. And it has got enough torque to put your savage on its roof in a blink of the eye.. On 16 and 18 cells..

I would recommend the 8XL if you are planning on running 18 cells and up..

7XL rules. It has got a nice kv range, and on 16 cells it is a true blast. More power than the 10L. the runtime depends on your finger. The 7XL can drive as long as the 10L, it will run faster if you give it a WOT, so don't expect more runtime if you are running 5mph faster..

i love the 7XL being smooth and predictable...

I love my 7XL too. As you may have heard:D If you want an XL Can, get the 7. If you want an L Can, go for the 10.

As mentioned before, Serum's the Savage guru. I would blindly follow his advice. For he actually knows BL Savages, and has experience with different motors.

Holy hell, that thing truly is a beast! :eek:

OK, I go for the 7XL . The order is already changed. Thanks for all your suggestions. I will send some feedback.

-- Dave

Hello,

I'm new here on the forum and I'm also planning to build a BL savage. The esc will be the warrior 9920 and the motor 7XL (almost certain)

Does de 7XL also perform well on 14 - 16 cells? Because I don't want to put 16 - 18 cells for the first runs.

Thank you,

Jasper

Welcome my fellow Dutchmen... (land of the clogs, mills and good advises (referring to this thread here, no arrogance intended... ;)

you can use the savage with the 9920 and the 7XL on 14, 16 and even on 18 cells.. Trust me.. 18 is a BLAST!!!


If you need to know something or need any hints and tips, feel free to ask..

What savage are you going to rebuild? (.21, SS.25 SSK4,6?)

Thank you for the quick reply, my fellow Dutchmen.

I'm going to rebuild an savage .25. I thought at my self what I have to change.

- spider diff in front and rear
- motor mount (e-maxx motormount or something else? Who can make that? I can't cut alu at myself)
- braces on the left and rear of the chassis for holding the cells
- changing the springs

Is this a good list? Or have I forgotten something?

Thank you,

Jasper

I will answer it a bit deeper later this evening,

the thing is;

You can buy a complete kit from Nitromods in Germany, which includes the batterieholders, motorplate, pinion and the special driveshaft, that kit is 89 euros.. (not too expensive imo)

As I know Nitromods sells the kit without the batteryholders. Monsters Paradise sells the same kit (from Nitromods) with the batteryholders for 95 Euros.

-- Dave

that's a nice price? i didn't knew nitromods sells it without those batterieholders..

That aluminum you need a just some U-profile for the batterieholders and a 6mm thick plate for the motor. If you have got a dril, a few rasps and patience, you are able to make them yourself...

The deal with the .25 savage went off, so I have to find another rolling chassis.

On ebay I found this: http://www.sickhobbies.com/frameset.htm

This is the New Savage SS 4.6 Roller, comes with 4 Hardened Dog Bones / Hardened Diff cups & Tran Cups/ DDisk Brakes / Adjustable upper Arms / 4 Bevel Gears / The Cam Type Steering Servo Saver and The 2 speed up grade

Build your own Racing TRUCK

What is MISSING is : Motor / Tires / Shocks / Motor mount / Body Cover

This is a UNUSED UNOPENED SS 4.6 Kit

$225.00 + SH

I only have to buy the stock SS shocks: 17,95, body: 20 and tires and rimes. What are the best tires? The HPI dirt bonz or the Proline bowtie tires?

And is it really necessary to get the alu HPI shocks and GPM diff housings?

Is the drive train off the 4.6 SS strong enough to reduce the BL power?

Thank you,

Greetz Jasper

Hi Jasper.. I am thinking about buying the K4,6 as well, and those dirtbonz are really good, with RPM stablemaxx rimms, you can't go wrong.

Imo the drivetrain is strong enough, i would get a set of aluminum differential housings (the ones that go around the entire diff) and a set of HB lighting diffcups (number 8019, if i recall correctly..)

My guess is that those bones will snap, sooner or later.. (that's one of the reasons i am going to use a centerdiff in this one)

I would get a K4,6 here in holland, for 460-470 euro, and you can sell the motor/exhaust etc. (about 200 euro imo) and you have got all the other goodies needed...