shouldnt take me too long to take em out right?

i am looking up the manual right now..

I just blew 1/8th scale gears out with an outrunner, it had the same symptoms, i managed to strip both pinion and spur

cost on these? ball bark? links?

Just went thru one version of this - 3905 diffs - ebay, one was $19 other $21 shipped, so the pr was $40. I'm going to run them without taking them apart, but prob a mistake - they feel like they need shimming. Haven't installed front yet, may break down and look inside and check it out.

I have done the other route using flm diff cups with their modded ring gear and new pinion - those are $30 each. Strong enough for a 28 nitro, but how well stand BL power, don't know.

Muggy diffs - no idea.

UE - 6 sypder diffs used runs $150 and up, may find cheaper, ebay or UE BST easiest places to locate. They are in stock at UE, new at $260. The 8 sypders start used around $175 and new they are $299 (new, in stock).

The flm hybrids - cases are $140 and you'll need a pr of diffs and pinions at $60 - 65 each so parts will total $260 or so.

Which is best, thunk the UE 8 spyders is the absolute best/strongest, they still need bulks however which the hybrids don't You could buy the ofna 8 spyder diff and pinions and put them in the hybrids. The cups hold up better than stock, not much else can say about them.

im liking the 3905 for 40 bucks. for right now, that should do it for me until i decide to go balls out. not for a while, but we will see. heh.

you think these 3905 diffs are stronger than the 3906?? my guess is yes, but i dont know much yet..

???

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Aluminum-Diffe...QQcmdZViewItem

Mike has some aftermarket diffs in the site store for $125 each you could give them a look...I have them on my backburner if I blow my diffs I will probubly get a pair

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...flmrvdf&cat=44

thats about 100 more than i want to pay. each. HEH.... for now, i think i may just get some 3905 ones or some aluminum cases and stock 3905 diff ones from ebay for the same cost.

The 3905 diffs have held up to my brushless E-maxx, been beating it for a couple months now.

FWIW the Hybrids can be done for less than $260, I'm in the process of upgrading my truck with FLM Hybrids, Hyper 8.5 diffs, and the goodies from RC monster to use my stock 3905 drive shafts and the total cost was $225, still pricy but I'm getting some nice upgrades!

my vote is for a blown motor phase, just like Five-oh-joe said...
you are seriously risking frying the esc if you continue forcing it to spin a damaged motor... check your motor screws... if you used the screws supplied with the feigao, then odds are that the internal motor windings got shorted...

well the motor has less that an hour on it, brand new from Mike. if it was a Lemon, we need to deal with it. otherwise i need to find another problem. but i didnt get a chance to take the diffs apart.

i do have to say this though guys... when i punched the throttle, the motor was clicking like that, jumping or whatever you want to call it. the video wasnt 1/32 on throttle, it was full throttle. i would think that the motor would be spinning and i would just demolish any diffs or anything else wherever the problem is.
am i wrong by thinking this? could it really be a bad motor? even if it is brand new? the temps were low, not like i killed it or anything. i was EXTREMLY careful with the temps being new to BL and all. i barley got on the throttle.

could also be a broken or loose or bad solder joint between the esc and the motor...

at any rate, one phase doesn`t work... either because it gets no voltage feed from the esc, or because it`s broken somewhere in the winding...

So I'm NOT as crazy as I thought I was for thinking a possible blown phase...:lol:

i dont think anyone here is crazy. all you guys are very intelegent, thats why I am asking YOU the questions ha.

i am very worried about my problem guys. i am going to go home tonight and riop everything apart, take some pics and post them up.

well, i took the diffs apart and saw nothing significant. i am soaking everything in acetone right now and will attempt to put back together tonight. need to clean all the crap off and re-grease them. i will take some pics once i have cleaned everything for your viewing pleasure.

one thing i never tried on my narrowing down the problem process though. hooking everything up except the wheels and seeing what happens.

the motor turns freely when not connected to the pinion.
pinion to spur to tranny spins fine.
driveshafts to diffs is where the problem was. but i never checked it without the tires on to see if it spun freely without the binding. that is my mission tonight..


almost forgot, i got these today for 100 bucks shipped.


http://i5.ebayimg.com/08/i/000/f0/40/0c31_1.JPG

http://i15.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/f0/40/0ccd_1.JPG