Well, I just gently inserted a small screwdriver-like object into one of the clip holes to release a corner. Then, while applying gentle pressure to keep that corner open, release another tab. After two, it just kinda falls apart.

I finished modding the case. Took the majority of the top off to help airflow. Still looks good and would seem to retain some protection of the components. Now that I took a good look at the stock heatsink, I actually think I'm gonna keep it stock. It seems to have the perfect height profile and has more surface area than anything else I can find in my parts bin. Now, I just gotta find my camera...

The heatsink looks like the sidewinder one. My sidewinder barely gets hot, even with the aveox overgeared. I have a similar sink that I may put on a mm. Plus it looks like a better design to put a fan on, as airflow can go in all directions. I am not a fan person either. I need to try my MMM out again, only ran it once so far!

still waiting for the pic Brian.... grab that camera!

Can't find it! And my camera phone is just plain crap. Anyway, it's nothing special, just another of the existing 1000 MMs out there...

OK, here's a couple pics...

The new device I was talking about (on the left by the wires):

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/mmm_1.jpg

Modded case sans fan:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/mmm_2.jpg

That modded case looks good. I like the way you left some to help protect the caps.

I wonder what the extra component is? Maybe something to help keep voltage spike from reaching the bec.

Looks to be a 28V TVS:

http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Colla...MC5.0AT3-D.PDF

Brian, Here is another mod you should do while you are at it. Some of the components on the bottom of the board rub on the case and I actually had the fan plug break completely off on one of my MMMs. Pocketing a little on the material out on the case bottom prevents the rubbing and hopefully will keep the MMM running longer. I cant imagine constant stresses on those components can be good for them or the boeard itself. Heres a pic of what I did to fix it.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...z/CIMG3209.jpg

Another thing to look at is the spot in the case where the rx and switch wires come out. I had one start to rub the wire bare already. Just shave a little off of the case to to keep it from binding and rubbibg and I wrapped the wires at the spot where they contact the case with a little electrical tape to hep protect them. No pics on this one, but easy to understand I think.

Oh, and a one more thing... Take the sticker off of the bottom of the case if you plan to use servo tape or velcro or something on the bottom to hold the MMM in place. The CC lable starts to peal after not to long and then becomes the weak link in holding the MMM in place. Of couse without the sticker the case top can pop loose in a crash cuz the label isnt covering the seam on the side any more and helping to hold it together. A zip tie over the top of the whole unit keeps it all together in a crash.

the mamba, even with exposed caps seems to be a better design! o well. thats an interesting job that they have done with the addition of a part whihhch wasnt origianlly planned for!

jhautz: I haven't noticed any rubbed spots yet, but I'll see if I can figure out where they are. Along with adding a little extra clearance, I might also add some type of material to keep the PCB raised a certain height, kinda like standoffs.

I had already removed the sticker and cut out the wire hole a little more. I even added some heatshrink to those wires to help protect them and act as a sort of strain relief. I noticed both those issues right away within 20 seconds of opening the box.

That modded case looks sweet. Will you be running a fan?
So pretty much most if not all Monsters sooner or later are going to have to get returned to CC to get that new device put on.

Thanks. Nope, I will not be running a fan, which is why I modded the case to increase airflow. I imagine all RMA'd and new ESCs will have some type of updates.

A small TEC on top of a copper plate and the MMM heat sink on top of the TEC will make a nice none moving set up. That what I plan on doing when all the bugs are fixed and CC comes out with the 8S or 12S unit. They are the perfect size for the TECs I have.

The trouble with TECs is that they require between 3-5A by themselves to operate, which would reduce runtime...