Those are the right parts. :yes:

BrianG, Patrick tell me that the internal BEC of the MMM have a 3.3 volts regulator to power the microprocessor of the MMM, so if you powered it with the 6 volts of your Koolflight UBEC, you risk to destroy your MMM:neutral:

Thanks Patrick!

David: No, I'll be injecting the 6v into the throttle lead back into the MMM, which is normally at ~6v anyway. The additional 3.3v regulator must be further back in the circuit.

Basically, I'll be using an external UBEC without pulling the red wire...

Success!

Removed the components Patrick suggested and it works like a champ. :smile:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/mmm_bec_mod_done.jpg

The MMM switch is useless now, switching it off did nothing. So I bridged the contacts at the PCB (did this after the pic above).

And now, I can use the Castle Link without any mods, nor do I need batteries hooked up to the ESC. I don't know if this mod makes anything run longer or better, but I feel better with my V1. :smile:

So now basically it's an opto ESC?

Whoah nice one Brian.....I hope I am good with soldering iron as you are....

I see the fan plug went south too:lol:

Brian just created the first MMM lite...

$10 says it still conks out...


:lol:

Basically yes. Although, in most Opto ESCs, you still need the main battery connection as well.... at least that's how it is in the CC HV ESCs.

You'd laugh if you saw the iron I worked with. Since I knew those parts were destined for the trash, I heated one side of the IC while gently prying with a tiny screwdriver. The IC basically fell off when I heated the other side. I just cut the inductor out and then removed the leftover connections.

Of course! I wasn't using it anyway and it was added weight for nothing. :lol:


Let's see how long it lasts. I got this ESC really cheap, so if it blows, no biggie. It was more or less my experiment ESC. I've never blown an ESC yet, and I hope not to change that, so hopefully things will be good. The only things that can go wrong now is if the external UBEC fails (sending full B voltage to the internals - ouch!), or if the ESC simply decides to do a Schulze on me. :smile:

And neil, I have one thing to say to you: :tongue:

Impressive work Brian!

Can I nominate this to be a sticky ? BrianG is a legend. I have just done this mod to my dead V1 & magically, the esc has been resurrected.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/cc02.jpg
Before

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing39/cc01.jpg
After

Regards,
Joe Ling

I hope this is applicable to V2......just in case mine dies ( I hope not too soon :lol: )...

Don't forget to remove the switch wires and bridge the solder pads where the switch goes. I did a little more testing with the switch in place and found that when it was off and ran it for a couple of minutes, I'd have odd performance. Something like cogging, but not. With the switch closed, everything runs perfectly. So, you might as well remove it and bridge the pads. Cleans up the wiring too.

Yep, curious me already tried that. Not good to have the switch opened.

Thanks.

Regards,
Joe Ling