For 6s2p A123 I would say
1515 2.5d (1650kv), what I use on 5s and 6s lipo, and also 6s2p A123 hopefully soon.
or 1515 2D (2050kv). There's one at racing that has enough power on 4s in a Kyosho ST-RR truggy.
or 1515 1y (2200kv). I bought one for 4s racing, but haven't used it yet since there's not much racing in Perth, because of winter.
Those 3 motors should work well with the right gearing, but which ones is best depends on what you want out of it, and what your gearing range is.

Have you been to any of the off road tracks in Perth before? West Coast Model Rally Club in Bayswater is my usual track. There used to be some pretty good maxx's there (all Gorillamaxx and UE) until will all moved to truggies at the end of last year.

Thanks for that infor Patrick, I haven't been around the RC tracks in Perth yet, might drop by once I finish my Gorillamaxx. Looks like a good setup track.

Neu motors at those KV rating can to run higher pinion spur ratio. E-maxx 3906 lowerest spur is about 64t and biggest pinion is 26t. Still looking out for 1/8 buggy style trans setup, then Neu would be a better choice. I thought Neu was 4 poles:oops:

Thanks TexasSP for that link. Very useful indeed.

The 11,14,15 and 22 series motors all have 12 slot stators and 4 pole rotors. Have you thought about converting to single speed? I'm using a 3906 tranny converted to single speed using UE idler and gorillamaxx single speed conversion. So far, it has held up to the power of the 1515 1Y motor on 6S. I'm also using a strobe slipper with 51T spur on 20T pinion (both Mod 1). My diffs are UE 8 spyders on GA bulkheads.

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NIce truck George:yes:. Yes, I'm ordering that Gorillamaxx single speed convertion and a single motor mount. I have a set of Ti gears and idler I bought from some wanker of ebay, told me it was new, came with lots of dirt and oil. I missed out on the bid for the strobe slipper. Already got the RRP slipper. I'm having problems with trying to put 3.3 CVDs with RPM Revo alxe carriers, Flextek Ti arms with FLM hybrids UE spyder 8 diff together. 3.3 CVD's ball ends are 9mm OD and UE diff cups are 8mm ID, also the shafts are too short. Someone here said UE CVDs are longer, but I'm trying to figure out some other way of doing it, extending my CVDs. I'm also getting the 1/8 diff output shaft from Mike. Hopefully with those and the cups that came with the CVDs will bring it out further. Supermaxx Shock mounts and FLM hybrids don't mix well. Have to file quite a bit on the shock mounts to fit. Will post some photos tomorrow.

Those aren't actually Ti gears, they're made out of hardened steel. I'm using a set for half a year without any complaints.

The UE 8mm cup is installed on the diff for the centers. I don't quite understand when you said 3.3 cvds have a 9mm OD. Are you talking about the center shafts or the axle (diff to knuckle) shafts?

Pictures will definitely help :intello:.


By the way, I'd rather have a stock motor mount than a single motor mount. The additional surface area of the single motor mount acts as a heat sink and helps dissipate the heat from the motor.

Strange, yet obvious, easily overlooked, and true. I found that out for myself- the custom mount I made was really rather warm after a good run, so it one was to maybe stick a custom made moutn with cooling fins and extra surface area, it wouldnt be a bad thing....

I meant to say, " the additional surface area of the stock motor mount helps in dissipating the heat from the motor".

George, here a few pictures of what I meant about CVD's ball ends not matching up. Inner Diameter(ID) of the UE Spyder8 diff cups are nearly 8mm, Outer Diameter(OD) of the 3.3 CVDs are almost 9mm. Diffs to knuckle shafts.

Also, bearings arrived, more than I probably ever need.

Getter Robo, I thought high carbon or high strenght steel are attracted to magnets? these doesn't. I could be wrong.

Finally got the shock mounts to fit onto the FLM hybrid bulks. Good to have a Dremel, also pictures of what I've done so far.

Damn, you couldnt account for a bit of bad luck like that, but a dremel is a wonderful thing to own :yes:

Is it just me, or do trucks like this look better without the wheels on? Looks great so far.

GorillaMaxx to come.
 

Well guys. Just an update on what i've got so far. Looks like Neil's truck. Well, I really liked his. What was I thinking when I plan to build this??.. one word..SPEED. (for an E-maxx that is).

Doesnt look anything like mine, lol. Has more in common with JohnyMaxxima's 70mph truck, especially with the flextek, CF chassis and phaltlines. What swaybar kit is that, looks interesting?..

any ideas where i can get some of these gears from i have one set that i got off ebay but i have another transmision i need to make bullet proof

If our old 'friend' isnt selling any on ebay at the moment, then RC4WD.com sell a full set of aluminum gears for about $70 I think, they should be pretty solid. You could always use the RCM steel idlers with those alloy gears to be 100% certain the tranny is solid.