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Minus the hack job conversion I think it will look nice. A couple of years ago I looked at doing one because I had a chance to get a 4tec for cheap. I actually designed my own chassis but in the end did not buy it. I think it's a great platform simply because it's so rugged.
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That 2 speed setup looks trick, when / what speeds does it kick in at, or is that your 3rd channel (?)..
Looking forward to see it run.. Good luck (not that you need it).. |
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It is an auto shifter, has a one way braing on the first gear, and a rpm based clutch on the second speed. Std traxass 2 speed in design, just outside of the case! Thanks, I need all the luck I can get!!! |
Got the motor mount today from impakt. The CC motor will not work as it has small screws that hold the endbells on, and they stick out the sides, effectively making the motor larger than 36mm in diameter. I tried a few feigao and hacker motors and they fit fine, will try out my 2500kv aveox and see how it does. If it fits I will run it on 4s lipo, instead of 2s with the cc 5700. Still need to mock up the chassis, and build the clutch.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2300.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2299.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2298.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF2297.jpg |
looking good!
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Those mounts look very nice, I definitely want to keep them in mind for the future.
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Bad News
So I mocked the car up with the tekno mount, and it does not allow enough clearance between the side of the mount and the brake disk. Need to be able to move it over about 1/4 inch to get the gears to mesh.
Also, it raises the motor too high, making the clutch contact with the plastic "bridge" that is attached to the front tranny bulk. So it looks like I will be making my own mount, and using the 5700 motor after all. The tekno mount is nice, and I am sure that i will find another use for it. I still intend to use the tekno clutch adapter and the stock clutch assembly. My motor mount must allow the motor to sit directly on the chassis, for clearance of the clutch. I will most likely use an l bracket mount that has the center of the base removed so that the motor can sit as low as possible. I will tap it to accept the stock nitro mount screws, and adjust it via the slots on the chassis. Most likely will not get to that till the weekend, and I am still waiting on some parts from tower. |
Man that sucks, i was hoping to see this thing run by this week. Anywho, keep up the good work. I'm sure you will figure everything out.
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I would make the battery tray, but I always do that last, after I have everything else mounted, and sometimes I even wait till I have tested the setup. You may notice that some of my vehicle have cool ziptie battery mounts:party: |
Yeah too bad you couldn't use the Tekno mount. I'm gonna keep an eye on this thread because I've wanted to build a 4-Tec for a while. I'm just a fan of belt-driven things; less noise, better efficiency.
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If rolling resistance is anything to go by, my tamiya tt-01 has almost no drag, especially compared to this belt car. Not really a problem, as brushless has plenty of power. I am changing all of the belts, and checking all of the bearings, so it will be better than when I got it. He did have the mesh set too tight, and the primary gears had seen better days, tghat may have accounted for the drag... Does anyone know if soaking the belts in wd-40 is a good idea before installing them? I read to do that in a mag a while ago... |
You could try using light-weight shock oil on the belts, silicone is very slippery stuff. If you're replacing the bearings you may want to consider ceramics. Especially if you're going to sell it afterwards, you can ask a bit more, since they're still an exotic commodity in RC. Then there's that rediculous performance increase as well...
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NONONNONONONONo!!!! It softens the compound of the rubber.. that would be bad for the cogs.. using wd is an onld drag racing trick, throw some on the tires and go do your burn out, tires come out clean and sticky |
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