ok thanks neil

ok so i have made some progress with my build, i have the motor and the MMM. and the final bits and peices are in the mail. however, i ask you this, will using an external BEC increase the chances of my MMM not burning up? ive read that the problems with the v2 can be traced to the BEC circuitry. i will leave you with some pics of the progress,

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l5...p282008005.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l5...p282008001.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l5...p282008002.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l5...p282008003.jpg

this is a close fit, will this be dangerous for my batts to be so close to the hot motor?

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l5...p282008004.jpg

Your batts will be fine so long as they arent actually touching (air is a poor conductor of heat).
Using an external BEC will take some load off of the esc with regards to powering the Rx and servos, but without knowing exactly what causes some MMM becs to die exactly, at best it wont make a blind bit of difference really; if the esc is going to die, theres nowt you can do to stop it, apart from from very tricky internal pcb modifications...

hopefullly your motor will not be too hot because then something may be wrong in your setup.

ya, i think ill just keep the external BEC to unload a bit from the MMM.

Hi, you flipped your tranny right, did you have to get different shafts? Or could you use the ones that came with your FLM chassis. Is it better to have it flipped?

Now that i look at it, i seem to have flipped the tranny:oops: i dont think it will even work right with it flipped. but if you were wondering, the driveshafts that came with the FLM chassis work with the tranny regardless of the direction it is going.

as my last parts arrive i am in need of assistance in locating a suitable copper braid for connecting the a123 cells together in my batt packs. does anyone know where to get some?

Nice build looks alot like mine. I was going to flip the tranny but just moved the batts instead for better weight distribution.

I have two suggestion...tires...radio...

Just search ebay for 'copper braid', plenty of results pop up that way. You will be needing a fairly good iron though, at least 40-50watts or more to make quick, solid joints, without heating up the cells too much.

I just used copper braid made as solder wick. It is sold in places like Radio Shack. Seems to work well for me- love those A123s!

That is exactly what I had in mind for upgrades prior to completion of the build. i am thinking about going with the mx-3 FHSS is anyone using this radio? and do you guys know where i can get some cheap 10 AWG wire? i am talking about the super flexable kind like the wire that comes with the MMM leads. i tried Home depot bu all they have is the really stiff copper stuff.

You can get some nice flexible stuff from ebay, just look for silicon wire usually- airplane and heli sites should have it too.

i decided to just go with the wire from the depot, it was cheap (less than $1 per foot) ant it isn't that bad. so i built the first battery and it was looking all good until i plugged the balance tap in to the charger and i got a ton of beeps saying the balance voltage was too high. i have ordered the usb kit that will let me update the firmware and hopefully solve the problem until then i will just have to wait.

Did you check the voltage with a multimeter? Also, if you are worried about heat between the motor and cells, try off setting the cells a bit. Instead of gluing them in the center, glue them right over top of the outside set of cells. As for the Depot wires, check the temps at the wires for the first few runs to make sure they are conducting right. A good, high quality sub-woofer wire can be found at most speaker shops and work great.