How hard is it to get it off the chassis? Also I will be running on a onread carpet high traction surface. But keep in mind there are going to be some pretty big jumps if that effects anything. Any reccomendations for high traction, and tight turning track? Also I am planning on running a 13.5 at most if not a 15.5(haven't decided which one I want to run in the mod class) so there isn't going to be major monster power.

Really hard - jk - 4 screw hold the centre diff to the chassis and then fours screws to take the diff apart. You will be fine...

You seem pretty new to RC, or at least the custom side of it. The center diff should come off with four screws form the bottom of the chassis. I really don't think that the RCM kit is hard to put together.

I would read, read, and read again the MANUAL FOR THE CRT.5 to familiarize yourself with the way it is put together. Just take your time and lay everything out neatly in the order you took it apart, so that it is easy to put back together.

Hope this helps!:mdr:

I am not a new commer to rc but rc customizing. I have been in rc for about five years but this is my first custom. I am sorry about all the questions. I have yet to recieve my .5 but once I do I will order the chassis and see who the diffs feel. I'm not sure what the old owner had in there but his fluids a shot.

Also are there any worth while up grades for this? What are the most commonly broken part. My lhs dosen't stock the parts for the .5 do i'll get a few spares stocked up.

Shocks are the main upgrade, I like the CNC hexes too

Revo shocks come with it. What have you guys broken most often?

few arms, couple of hubs, 1 x bumper, 1 x wing mount, 4 x pins, 4 x servo savers (lots until i changed the mounting point)

So I should change the mounting point of the servo saver? I'm prob. not going to run a wing. By pins do you mean hing pins?

Sorry hinge pins - They hold the arms on.

Yes move the steering turnbuckle to the inner hole on the servo saver...

You will need a wing...

Yes I know what hinge pins are. I'm not running a wing because i'll be racing indoors and they said I need to take everthing off of it that is visable from the outside that differs from a xxx-t or a t4. Once I get the car i'll take a look at the servo saver to try to see what your talking about.

The crt.5 is a lot heavier than a 1/10th buggy or truck, especially after it's been converted to electric. I run a Novak 6.5 in my e-crt.5 and it is faster than a 13.5 in a 1/10 buggy, but about the same speed as a 10.5 in a 1/10 wheeler. It has a bit more back straight speed than a 10.5 wheeler, but the wheeler will have more pop out of corners to clear jumps. For instance I have a Kyosho ZX5 SP with a 7.5 that will over jump the big triple at my track, but the 6.5 e-crt.5 can not even clear the triple. Unless your track is really small a 13.5 e-crt.5 will be a lot slower than anything else on the track.

It is pretty technical. I'll need more off the line speed than straight away speed. By the way am looking for one used so if anyone has one let me know. Any ideas on how to lighten it up?

Would it be heavier than a rustler?

If you want to keep it light:
1. Use stock chassis and body
2. Use a light battery tray like a couple of velcro straps or two posts and a top bar.
3. I use the Maxamp 4200 2S battery and would go any bigger than that.
4. Stay with the buggy sized wheels
5. Use a Mamba Max & 4600 motor combo or Fiegao "S" can. Light, cheap, and more powerful than the 13.5.