I prefer badlands. If I run on dirt it will have some bowties...

Moabs are taller, aren't they?

Here are some shots of the pushrod mods I made. By using the small red Revo washers (one on each end) I could raise or lower the truck (and the center of gravity) by about 1/4 per washer. So with both washers out the truck would sit almost 1/2 lower. Of course when running it that low you need to stiffen the suspension (stiffer springs and thicker oil). When set to the lower setting the truck handles more like a 1/8 buggy, you can rail the turns. With it set at the higher level it handles like a stock Slayer, lots of suspension action and sliding power drifts.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/pushrods.jpg
Stock pushrods on top (silver) modded ones on the bottom (green).

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r.../pushrods2.jpg

so that pushrod is threaded inside all the way from end to end? Or did you just made your way by just inserting the screw?

Nice I like how unique it looks...

Truckbasher, the pushrods were made as follows:

I had some extra 6mm suspension tubes from my Axial crawler. They were about 100mm long, so by cutting them in half they were about the length of the stock Slayer pushrods. I made them shorter so I could use the Revo red spacers to lower the ride height (by leaving the spacers out the pushrod would be shorter than stock). To make the rod ends I took some 4mm machine screws and cut off the heads, leaving about a 30mm long threaded rod. I took a stock Traxxas ball end and screwed the threaded rod into it, then I took this and screwed it into the 6mm tube. I had to tap one end of the 6mm tube afer I cut it, because it was not threaded.

I wanted to try some different tires on my Slayer, so I bought the MC2 17mm adapters and bolted on some 17mm 1/8 scale buggy wheels/tires. They are a tiny bit bigger in both diameter and width.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC04595.jpg
Stock on the left, 17mm on the right.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC04597.jpg
stock wheels/tires.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC04598.jpg
17mm

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC04601.jpg
17mm

Ok I just got my RCM Revo Brushless motormount that I am useing in my Slayer conversion and I just need a picture of how the mount is assembled Please Help.:oops:.And do I just turn the adjustment for the 2 speed counterclockwise to lock it into 2nd gear.And how many turns?And does this enable reverse to be used?Thanks guys couldnt do it without ya:party:

phatmonk: To lock it in you will have to take apart the transmission and modify it.(http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...ight=gear+lock) You don't have to lock it in if you keep your brake servo stock and don't care about reverse. RCM motor mount IDK if they are even the same as when i bought mine. Three pieces?

I don't have a picture, but if you blow this one up (from the storefront), you should be able to assemble it from that:

http://www.rc-monster.com/prodimages...0mount_web.jpg

Adjusting the shift screw will NOT totally eliminate first gear. Shifting will be a lot sooner, true, but not instant. And it won't allow reverse or motor braking. Locking into second would be the only easy/free method to allow reverse and motor braking.

Be careful if you do decrease the shift point though, if you go too far, the set screw, spring, and little ball bearing will fall out. It's not good for the gears to have those loose parts floating around in there! :wink:

Thanks Guys I found Brian Gs thread on locking the second gear.Very stoked with the help I continue to find in the RCM forums.:party::party:Why doesnt the mount come with at least a photo of a assembled mount?

Heres some pic of my E-Slayer.This is easily my favorite RC so far.Its got a Vantage racing chassis,swaybars,RCM motormount,Alloy outer diff cases plus hardened internal diff gears spiral cut ring gears.Now it rolls freely like it should.A Tekno Neu 1515/1Y/F run on 4s 5000 and a 6000 4s battery.I put 17mm hubs with a 3mm offset and knock-off knuckles buggy tires/wheels that allow a certain amount of slide so it doesnt flip as often.And Traxxas Revo
GTR anodized shocks.:party::whip::diablo:

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/8...4359zr9.th.jpghttp://img204.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif

http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/3...4360wx1.th.jpghttp://img362.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif

I have a question, how close are the bulkheads and arms to the Revo? The reason I ask is how hard would it be to convert an E-Revo to an E-Slayer? That way the battery trays and motor mounts can stay stock. Just a thought I had. I like the Slayer more than the Revo but have this undying hatred for nitros.

The Slayer arms as I know will fit the 2.5 Revo with the shorter wheelbase.I think there is a thread about converting a E Revo to E Slayer.