Never claimed to be the sharprest knife in the drawer, thats why I make sure I go the deepest and move around alot

Looks good Chris. :great:Two suggestions to further bullet proof it...


1) Take the capacitor and trim the rigid leads down real short and solder flexible wire (18-20ga) between the cap and the battery leads. I had a rigid cap lead fracture and break on another esc just from the normal vibration of use and it shorted and toasted my rx and servos. The esc survived, but it still wasn't fun. The flexible wire will prevent the rigid cap leads from fracturing.

2) Unplug the fan from the MMM board solder a servo lead on it and plug it into the Rx so its powered with the external BEC. With it still plugged into the board it is still putting a very small load on the internal bec. As long as you have gone this far you might as well take as much load of off the internal bec as you can. Once you take the fan off of the internal bec circuit the only thing it will power is the MMM brains and thats a very small load.

I did the same thing, as you with the window in the bottom of the case and the padding under it, but I think you went a little crazier with the dremel tool than I did. I just did a small 1/2 inch square. Yours looks 4 times as big as mine, but as long as you can mount it still it probably doesn't matter how big it is. The point is to take the pressure off of the board.

I dont see why any of that would void the warantee. People have been doing case mods on this esc from the start and the rest of it doesnt touch the board. The only questionable thing is the direct jumpering of the switch right on the board as you described. I havent had a switch fail yet so I havent gone that extra step yet. I'm sure it will happen eventually though. That is provided I can get one to run for a decent legth of time.

Hi,

While I'm no expert, I think the resistor thing & the cap thing are 2 different things. The resistor thing was an attempt to eliminate the sometimes frightening spark when the battery is connected to the esc while the capacitor is there to assist the esc run a little cooler.

Hey Arct1k, if u do find the cap helps with esc temp. do update us although I think MMM is fine without it. Having said that cooler is always better.

Regards,
Joe Ling

Jeff - thx will take your advice on the caps - Easy change now on the MMM as you can pull the leads off - I debated about creating just a pocket but decided to create enough room I'd have to got through most of the case anyway.

I was in two minds about the fan too as it means an extra y splitter - not the end of the world... I'll go for V3 tonight... I also have 3 MMM's to do this to...

Caps charge almost instantly so no issue for MMM - Extra caps help with any Ripple Current and I've generally found to help the ESC a lot.

PS here are the caps:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=493-1597-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P10310-ND

this is the one novak recommends
Power Trans-Cap Module .......they have extra doohicky's on them

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/p...power_caps.htm

this model for 4s and 6s

http://www.shopatron.com/product/par....56.7400.0.0.0

Hmmm... $17.50 for a cap with wires added or $2 and I add my own wires...:neutral:

Number one...... electronics are not my forte but it seems you are considering this to be just another capacitor......did you even read my first link and look at the bottom of the page?

the Novak unit makes this claim

http://www.rgcbuilders.net/cap.jpg
The Novak capacitor modules have more than just a power capacitor, we have also included on this module two Transient Suppressors and three High Frequency Decoupling Capacitors. The two Transient Suppressors act like a voltage clamp and prevent high voltage spikes from damaging the ESC, and the three High-Frequency Decoupling Capacitors filter out radio interference noise.
So, the Novak capacitor is not just any power capacitor. Novak specially selects capacitors with very low ESR values with the highest possible ripple current for the capacitor that size

is this just pure bullshit or is there something to this?

There is probably something to that. That little transient surpressor "voltage clamp" device is what Artur adds to the MM and R1Pro when he mods it. Only he adds a single biggger one to the back of the main board where the main power wires are soldered on.

I guess there may be something to it. I dont know if'n its needed or not, but It probably cant hurt anything.


EDIT: and no, I didnt scroll down. lol

dude its novak, the 4.5 catches on fire if you run a 14 tooth pinion, id assume, yes its BS

Jay go back to bed dude...you need the rest

lol..maybe it will make a bigger fire when it blows

lol man wish I could. Deny my comment was true. How is their cap going to help the fact a 380 rotor is spinning a monster truck

I just used a Dremel on my lower case to carve out a nice cavity of clearance for the fan plug. Much better! :yes:

I did notice something else that concerns me.

There are TWO resistors directly above the circuit board support rail. One had been clearanced and allowed for. The other had NOT.

The one that needs attention is on the power output side right on the edge of the board. The fix for this is just to remove a small amount of material from the rail so the weight of the board isn't pounding on the resistor.

I'm not sure what would happen if this resistor broke off. My guess would be that it serves as part of the filtering for the emf return to the brain.

Anyone else notice that it's a 10V capacitor in those pics??? :rofl: It's made for 6-7 cell touring cars. At least that version. Do they make a more capable unit?

The capacitor on my brandnew Novak 6.5 HV blew nicely with a big flame out of it on SPC 2x cell 8000mah packs on my erevo so mine didnt protect the ecu at all:lol: and has now been replaced under warranty:yipi:..my MMM/Medusa combo has been flawless so far.:party: surprised me to