1527 wouldnt kill the diffs any more than a 1521. Think of it like this. The diffs are obliterated and dogbones sheared when you try and pump 2kw through to the wheels from a stand still. Using a 1521 to hit it with 3kw or a 1527 to hit it with 4kw wont make any difference.

I run a 12XL on 6s lipo and the diff pinions and dogbones shear if I'm not gentle with the throttle, I don't know how anyones truck can survive with a neu! They seriously need to beef up the drivetrain on that thing if you want to run brushless. I think revo style driveshafts would do the trick, the torsional flex stops you drop shredding diffs and sheering those damn dogbones!

well if a 1527 would fit and it would provide more power why not i guess. i just figured the diffs wouldnt be able to handle it at all.

any way i could get spyder 8 emaxx diffs in it?

I'm running cen diffs which are cheap on ebay and I think they will hold up but it will take a few more packs to really tell. Dog bones will be a problem though.

I agree that a 1521 should be a good motor for a cool setup in the savage. 1527 will be unreliable due to drivetrain breakages and 1521 might be also. The crazy thing about the savage is it's weight. I'm scared to drive mine with other rcs cause i'm scared of what it will do to them if I hit them.

Hi,

I am also running a FLM conversion but using a feigao 8XL & BK9920.

1) Motor - I think a Neu 1515 motor should be enough for racing.

2) In addition, I had LST shocks but could never tune them properly. Finally, I switched to Jammin' Super Big Bores on FLM towers & I was pretty happy with the results. Note that this is for running on a track though

3) Shock towers - I use FLM towers. I got a pleasant surprise recently when I bought a pair of FLM towers. One of them have holes for mounting a wing already machined onto the tower. The holes are suitable for mounting a HB lightning wing stay. Ask for it :

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ling39/s09.jpg

4) esc - MMM is the way to go. I will be testing mine this weekend

5) Body - Losi 8ight T body fits well. It's narrow & long.

6) Suspension - go for the racing suspension conversion :

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ling39/s10.jpg

7) dog bones - go for CVDs all round

8) tranny - I think 2 speed is more than enough. Personally, if I can go fro single speed would be even better for going round a track

Good luck & show lots of pics !

Regards,
Joe Ling

No problem lah, others will have to avoid your truck if they want to leave in 1 piece at the end of the day. Then you'll be king of the track or hill depending whether u racing or bashing :lol:

Regards,
Joe Ling

That is sweet Joeling. I have had problems tuning the LST shocks for racing too. They are fantastic bashing but on the track they are a challenge. The next thing I was going to try is lighter oil. On the track with the 20wt my truck was bouncing too much and if I hit anything the truck tends to roll instead of the suspension absorbing the impact. I think I have the spring rates right now. This is all on the nitro though so I still have to work it all out for the electric but I think it will be fairly similar.

Joeling, any chances you could give us more info on how you have done your sway bars. They look like they should work well.

joeling- are there any cvds that will work with the extended aarms?

edit- joeling i found the suspension conversion. they only have them in purple?

Not sure about CVDs for the extended arms

Yeah, I think suspension conversion only available in HPI colours

cvds are weaker with those pesky little pins in them. the sav xl dogbones are the gear, but i think theyre so much stiffer (particularly torisonal stiffness), thats when you start doing your diffs.

I also got this info off savage central which in turn is from another site :

For my mod, I used some leftover bits of my retired sacker 1/8 nitro buggy & a couple of pieces of bicycle sopke as I cannot seem to find decent music wire in my part of the world.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng39/s03-3.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng39/s05-3.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng39/s04-3.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng39/s07-1.jpg

Mine

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a.../saxysway1.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a.../saxysway2.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a.../saxysway3.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a.../saxysway4.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a.../saxysway5.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a.../saxysway6.jpg

Original

how well does the sway bars actually help as far as racing goes? you notice a big difference in handling?

instead of a bicycle spoke for the wire couldn't you use a revo sway bar wire or something?

I have not tried them yet. I will know tomorrow if there is no rain.

I will look into whether I can find some revo sway bars thanks for th info.

Regards,
Joe Ling

Bicycle spokes are actually a really good idea. You can buy different thickness spokes and they are about a dollar or two each. I actually have the blue groove set but they are expensive and I think your way is actually better.

And they make a massive difference handling wise. I have the sway bars on the front of both of my trucks and before the trucks would pull up the right rear wheel if I tried to corner at speed. That normally lead to roll overs or aborted turns.

Revo sway bars won't work I wouldn't think but I am sure there is something out there that would. I thought the baja ones might but after seeing them the front ones look too small and the rears are huge.

how do you get it at a perfect 105 degree angle? im guessing you have to do the bending correct?

get a protractor or something?