Man this sucks. Lutach, i'd have 3 of your ESC's now, but theyre so big I can't fit them in any of my current 1/8 stuff! It seems like 160F on the ESC is a bit high for the kind of driving you were doing, George.

Yes, the cap issue has been sent to the factory.

Luciano,

Beleza.. Even though this is the first failure, I'd like to commend you for your efforts in trying to get a good product to the masses. This is just a hobby, but it takes dedicated people like yourself to improve on what is already out there and your customer service has been first-rate. I mentioned this in another thread, but I purchased a bunch of larger caps from Digi-key awhile ago. I wonder if it's not too big a deal to retrofit ESC's with these caps and some 18-awg wire (normally used for receiver packs)? I did this mod to my OEMRC speed control which is very similar to the ones you offer component-wise and it's flawless.

just an opinion here...
any esc will have problems with that much braking power... wheel-locking brakes usually prelude a smoking esc...

as i said, just my 0.02...

Beleza (That kind of means what's up in Brasilian Portuguese btw)..I'm trying my best and it's not looking so bad. I'm going to take some pictures of what can be done to the caps, but they'll look something like the Hobbywing cap bank. I'll post pictures of it when I'm done. Thank you for posting.

Luciano

I purchased 3 of your ESC's and they are all behaving well. It was sad to see the pictures of the damaged ESC but I am hoping it was due to a timing issue. I checked my ESC's again to make sure that the ESC's that were paired to the motors were on the correct timing.

I think you are doing a great job and hope the testing will go on to be successful. and you will have a great product once the caps issue is sorted out.

Luciano, don't feel bad about it. It's not your fault. You went above and beyond by what most manufacturers do considering the fact the you're a small entity compared to these other manufacturer.

Like I said before, I'm going to do a torture test on any ESC I have before even going to the track :intello::intello:.

Anyway, you can send one to Luciano so he can send it to me. 160*F was the temp after the smoking.

I just want to make sure evryone knows this, "I really like this ESC. In spite of what happened, I will buy another one again".

Lito,

The member (magman) replied to me and he'll let me ship out his unit so you can get back in action. I'll send it out tomorrow and send you tracking number. Here is a little video showing what I did to secure my caps:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJcKU0VqjS8

That's great. I'll be dropping the ESC today and will PM you the tracking number. It will go USPS Priority. Thank you very much.

That's what I was trying to do but I chose to just wrap them halfway in order for the heat to dissipate better :neutral::mdr:.

Lesson learned. I'll shrink-wrap them better with the next one and just try to run them with stock settings.

You can change the settings to your liking, but I reather have the timing set to middle for the Y wound 4 pole motors. You should also see how many AMPs your pulling just to make sure it's not exceeding the 180A burst.

I don't have an Eagletree to check on the amps :neutral:. But yes, I'll keep the timing on the middle setting this time around.

I have a feeling the FETs blew due to the lack of input capacitance, not due to a short. Without capacitors the FETs can be exposed to some huge voltage spikes, especially during braking. This is why the MM can be made to run better in 1/8 with the addition of more low-ESR caps.

I think you are right. It does make sense. The abrupt stop and go was probably too much for the FETs to handle without the caps.

Lito,

I sent you the usual e-mail with pictures of your box ready to be shipped out. I'll send you tracking number later today. Sorry about what happened and with the next unit, please take all the necessary precautions to prevent the caps from breaking. If you can, please do an extra capacitor bank and add it to the original place or to the power wires as close as you can to the ESC itself. Please look at the following pictures for your study(It's of my 100A and 200A ESC and you can see the little wire next to the power wires are from the capacitor and it's soldered together with the power wires):

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01317.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01323.jpg