stayed completely cool all night racing. so far so good. (knock on wood.)

Sounds like you didn't unplug the red wire on the ESC when you connected it :P Too many volts messing there = dead esc

i unplugged the red wire. it was all setup right. at least thats what i was told. everything ran fine. fans came on, servos, reciever, esc all worked. i was actually about halfway through programming when it blew up. i pulled the throttle to confirm one of the functions and...boom! but up until then it was working fine. LEDs worked and it beeped as i went thru the programming steps. anyway, wont be trying that again. luckily now i have a MMM that is working. i am just going to keep using those. i hope this one lasts but if it goes out then i will just buy another one, and another one after that. i figure that eventually i will get one that lasts or eventually Castle will figure it out. either way, i will end up with a working esc in the end.

Ran 2 hours straight racing w/ the buggy last night.. no breaks & no hiccups w/ the MM w/BEC on 4s lipo's.

Was a blast! Why can't they make the MMM as reliable, LOL

i went and practiced at the track last night for 2 hours and ran without a hiccup with the MMM. hope it lasts. unfortunately the track was a little muddy. my new beautiful brushless setup is all dirty.:cry: but she was running like a champ. there was another kid there with his Nitro buggy practicing and he couldnt even clear the large doubles on the track. lets just say he was very jealous when he saw that i could clear them with a run from only 4 feet away. :mdr:

Agreed.. love the torque of the brushless.. it's just amazing!

Why don't you cut those motor wires in 1/2 ? That is a LOT of added resistance for no good reason ;) Just an observation.

Glad your MMM is still working for ya.. right now I have 1 good v2 mmm's (it's in my erevo racer) and I have two bad v2 mmm's both at castle awaiting replacement. I was told v3 production is soon and should be shipping w/in a months time at the longest.. I hope that is true.

the wires are what people usually comment on. when i built the car i could not find any 10 ga anywhere so i went to the local car stero place and picked up some 8 ga since that was the best wire they had. pure copper and high strand count. unfortunately the 8 ga is not quite as flexible as the silicone hobby stuff. so i ran it through the holes in the wing mount. it works great and usually people love the huge wire when they see it. but on my other motor i do have 10 ga silicone stuff that is more flexible. it is just hard to find. i found 3 feet of it once on amainhobbies.com and cant find it again since. the other motor is going on my truggy build so i have just left this one how it is. the wire to the battery is 10 ga though. any ideas where i can get some good 10 ga wire? i have only found 12 ga at deans. the MMM calls for 10 ga.

Call Castle Creations.. don't tell them who told ya though :P They will sell it to you directly... SHHH.

nice. thanks. i dont think anyone else heard that.:wink:

I thought the flexibility of the wire we use was more from the high strand count than the silicone sheath? The guy at my local electronics place had never heard or seen anything like the 12ga deans wet noodle I showed him. The thick high current expensive wire they sold there paled in comparison (strand count and flexibility were much less) and it too was silicone insulated.

for the amount of line we use (8 inches or less) it is probably not going to make a huge difference if one wire has 1250 strands and another has 1660.

naturally, as you get larger diameter wire it is going to be less flexible, even with silicone and high strand count. secondly, 8 ga is going to user thicker insulation over 12 ga. so that will make it less flexible despite it being silicone.

believe me, i spent over $2k building this buggy and over 50 hours. i didnt do all that to go chintsy on the wire.

bottom line is, when i find some more pure copper, high strand, silicone 10 ga i will switch to that. until then, what i got will have to do.

any recommendations where to get some?

btw, here is a pic of the 8 ga i used, some 10 ga tinned line (which i wont use cuz i heard its not as good as pure copper), and deans wet noodle 12 ga. from left to right. probably hard to tell from this photo but you can see they are similar.

maybe you can answer this for me too. does having a bullet connector in your line reduce current flow and if so, by how much? is it bad enough that its worth doing a direct solder?

maybe i will start a new thread and get some expert advice on this. i have heard of guys switching to deans connectors and seeing more power but i dont know what they were using before. i have heard that the deans, traxxas, and the Losi EC bullet connectors are all comparable. but i havent tested them all to know if thats true.

Yeah that wire looks better than what I could get at my local.

Deans claim their connecter has less resistance than the equivalent length of 12ga wire. What kind of 12ga wire is doesn't specify (at least were I read it). I'd stick with bullets, deans just look so little an poxy once you have large wires.

Castle have high strand pure copper silicone 10ga wire, and 6.5mm bullet connecters.

Not sure about your wires, but tinned normally means coated in solder, it looks like yours are not (maybe they coat individual strands I don't know). Cheaper wire has tin strands which are much higher resistance than copper.

All that said and done I've used a combination of castle 14ga and deans wet noodle all with 5.5mm bullets, and have never noticed any of the wiring or connectors warm up under as much stress as I can give it. (running 4s buggy or 6s revo geared for ~40mph).