My mmm and my mgm where both gone for a few weeks each for repair work. I made some changes but i haven't had time to run it. If the muggy diff gears don't make it more bashable I'm selling it and trying a dirrect drive truggy. I just put my v3 mmm in it too so we'll see how that goes.

The 5065 380kv motor I had was a wheelie monster for the 5 min the mmm lasted before it went up in flames. The speed calculator said it should do 48mph i think. The mgm 22418 cogged on anything other than the lowest start setting. The motor wires also get hot. I'm hoping the muggy gearing will help its start up issues. If it was lighter I'm sure it would be ok. I might try some lighter batteries next too.

I live about an hr from sac. If you have an E revo now I would keep the tranny and run it with a good motor on 6s and a mmm or mgm esc. You'll have a much better gearing choice.

Surely you didn't miss this?
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14176

Direct-drive-to-diff (this term was coined by sikeston) is not so easy on the E-Revo chassis. You cannot use the stock skidplate and must remove a lot of material from the chassis, and both of these things dramatically reduce the strength of the chassis creating a need for extra bracing. And this chassis is not friendly to those wishing to mod it...

I missed it, that is awesome MetalMan. The slayer tires might solve the gearing preblems for the revo. I tried the 4120 size motor before going to a 4130 size. We'll see how the muggy gears and the mmm v3 hold up after it stops raining.

BOR: sikeston34m did a direct to diff setup as metalman said, but he had issues with the truggy diffs.

The stock diffs will not hold up to a big outrunner. The revo is not the best platform to do a dirrect to diff setup.

Desmo, I like the lst. With the muggy gears and that axi you should be fine. Those motors like high timing and lots of start power.

Talk to lutach. He is the ultimate setter-upper.

Damn Travis! Your really doing it up!

Yea, so far its looking like the Direct drive is a no go. I dont have a tranny (anyone have one they will sell? lol) I still need one.

Sounds like the bigger MT doesnt do so well with the direct drive? I think I will just wait for the CC MMM combo, and do that. Unless anyone thinks otherwise?

Personally, I'd go DD. I would be happy to fab something up for you if you send the truck to me, along with the cost of metal and work ($20/hr.) I'm getting a mill very very soon (like next week) and want to do some custom work for people.

I've done some testing with outrunners in my CRT.5 and the best ESC for outrunners is the Sidewinder. I was using a Kontronik Jazz 80, a Quark Competition 80 and a MM before but no one is as smooth as my Sidewinder. I'm running it on 4s with UBEC, has anyone already tried 5s? I would love to put it in my HB Lightning Buggy on 5S.

Here is a small vid, as you can see it allows my to do drive so smooth and slow with a total ratio of 3,25 :yes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkAd3LFKwgU

I think the greatest advantage of an outrunner conversion is the possibility to save much weight, the RTR weight of my CRT.5 with Jato Wheels is only 4.1lbs. I've got runtimes of 15min-20min and this with a 2000mah 4s Zippy lipo and it's wheeling all the time.

http://i38.tinypic.com/2nbcdv8.jpg

It would be great if anyone could do some outrunner testing with the MMM, lets hope that it has the same software as the sidewinder. I think in your case, 5s or 6s are the way to go. I am using a KD36-8XL in my .5, you could have a look at the larger ones that HC has in stock. I was using a Turnigy 500kv Outrunner in my 8S Revo, it was also working very nice together with a Jazz 55-10-32 ESC.

Here is how I did a DD setup. This is the easiest IMO.

Made brackets out of 1/4 inch aluminum for the center diff.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4150007.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4150006.jpg
Drilled two holes for the front bracket and bolted the rear in using the tranny holes.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130228.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3090035.jpg
I used the stock front drive shaft and an axle shaft for the rear.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P4130225.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3090033.jpg
Slap on battery holders of choice.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3090027.jpg
And you have a kick ass E-Revo.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P3090041.jpg
Build thread here if your interested.

Nice, but in this case that's not direct drive. That's direct drive to a centre diff.

That is just plain old direct drive. It's called that because there's no transmission between the motor and output gear.

Then there's "direct-drive-to-diff", the term sikeston came up with. We know what this is.

With all the "direct drive to diff" conversions out there, it is much easier to say direct drive or DD instead of direct drive to diff. Maybe we should add DD to the "useful acronyms of memory" list.

I wonder how do you guys attach these outrunners to dogbones/CVD's?? Could you please give part number, etc.?

As far as I know there aren't any companies/individuals who sell shafts for outrunners that allow dogbones/CVDs to be attached to them. I made a shaft for my outrunner by putting two flat spots on each end of the shaft (for T-Maxx output yokes), and drilling a hole through both ends for the screw pin. For regular dogbone cups you would just need to use a Dremel to make a flat spot for the set screw to attach to.