What Batteries are you going to use with this setup?

I wonder if there is a decent 10S Lipo setup out there that will actually fit the compartments and produce some decent amperage?

I run it on 6s zippies(two 3s)....as it is, the kb45 has MAD power. I cant imagine 10s. way too much.

these may be good for 8s tho:whistle:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6418
or
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6503

I can pick you up from the TriRail station on 45th street sunday.

[QUOTE=hoovhartid;234936]I run it on 6s zippies(two 3s)....as it is, the kb45 has MAD power. I cant imagine 10s. way too much.

these may be good for 8s tho:whistle:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6418
or
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6503

Thanks Hoov,

I run a 6S 20C 5000mah setup geared 18/40 Mod 1 with a Medusa 36-60-1500kv. It's pretty quick.

I'm sure your kb45 setup is awesome.

8S would be too much for either of these setups, but that's where you change things around somewhat.

Maybe 1000kv motor geared correctly on 8S, then try to "tame" it some with Punch Control?

I'm still a noob when it comes to the LT ESC. But as far as I know, there isnt really a punch control. I had to raise the "StartForce" to 12% to control cogging, but when it goes...IT GOES. There is no way to really get my truck to crawl anymore like it used to with my MMM/neu set-up. At least not with the settings I am using. I still need to tinker with the LT-10S a bit.

I will say this tho....when I ran my MMM/neu I was using 100% punch control and I could still get all 4 wheels to spin out on the track when I wanted to. :yipi:
I just miss the slow control I had with the MMM. I could get the e-revo to crawl over a parking bumper.

i have overpower issues:mdr:

The best thing to use to control the throttle is finger control lol. I did notice that the ESC has a pretty high starting RPM, but that might be because it's needed for cars.

there isnt another setting i can try?

I have been in RC for about 22 years. I have finger control:yes:.
But when I just barely start to pull the trigger....its GOES....almost enough to get the front tires to hop off the ground.:neutral:

Maybe I can adjust my DX3.0 in some way?

Throttle Expo'?

nope....

I was all excited thinking that would do the trick.

I had my EXPO set to 0 (LN) and dropped it to -100. now it still has the inital overpower it did before, but it just happends a bit later in the trigger range.
So instead of the truck jumping in the first mm of trigger movement, it now jumps in the 3rd mm of movement. :neutral:


damn. I really hoped that would do it.

I'll take it to the track today and see if DickyT can help me troubleshoot it a bit.

As much as I have learned about RC electronics in the last 6 months....I can still stand to be schooled once in awhile. Hopefully someone can teach me something new....:smile:

otherwise....I need to try to weigh this thing down or something.

Sounds like a timing/commutation issue, but only at a certain point in the RPM range. Could it be firmware related?

I changed the timing per Lucianos suggestions.
DickyT seems to think it runs normal.
maybe I'm just spoiled by the MMM/neu combo I was running.
All n all I like the ESC. Its still a great back-up for the MMM

The ESC I use still has the previous software and with my Neu, it's pretty smooth. Is your KB brand new? The reason I'm asking is that I noticed the color of the can and that's how the motors I have that have gotten over heated looks. When I had the KD36-74s in my truggy they had a nice redish color, but when they failed and overheated they dod cog and the ESC used to stall when I gave full throttle, but now it has a similar combination of colors, but in red lol.

Edit: Also, the 6 pole that failed in one of my videos has the same colors as well, but it's yellowish. Try the ESC with a Neu (set timing to middle if it's a Y wound) and let me know how it goes.

I actually went and had a second look at his pics- the motor DOES look strangely colored...kinda like a monochromatic tie-dye! If the motor is compromised that would surely have negative effects on drivability. May I suggest you try a different motor, or has the thought already occurred?

The KB45 is new. I went and looked at the pics (you made me wonder) and it does look funky in the pics. It actually looks normal in person. But the motor was new in the pics. From the box to the truck I got it the same week as the ESC. I have only run it on the LT-10s. The temps have never seen over 170 (168).

Thats not to say the motor is perfect....after all, we are talking about a $50 motor.

Everyone else that saw it run, and tried it out, said they thought it ran great. Everyone kept asking why I wanted to make it go slower...:neutral: I think its just me. I was able to get the MMM/Neu to crawl at very slow speeds. Which begs the questions...."why?" and "How often did you do this?"
To which I answer..."um ...almost never":oops:

Everyone at the track seemed to love how it ran. The LT-10s and KB45 in the e-revo is a POWERHOUSE. I have never had a truck go from street to grass and not slowdown at least a little....but this went through grass like it wasnt there.:yipi:

The ESC temps were always very low too. The highest temps were recorded on the caps hanging off the end. The most I could get them to go to was 130F. .....and that was getting the motor to 168. Batteries were never much above ambiant (90F)

Over all, when running normal, the ESC is great. I was just trying to soften the slow speeds a bit.:smile:

It's cool. I just got concerned a bit as I've seen a few motors look like that after they overheat. Lincpimp will be trying my 100A sensored ESC in his crawler and should be posting something real soon :lol:. If you need really low speed capabilities a sensored set up is your best bet. A sensorless has to spin the motor to sense where the rotor is and in some cases they start a 500rpm to get some BEMF.

thats what I was thinking. I am interested in the 200A sensored. I'll be watching that one :eyes: