| lincpimp |
11.24.2008 03:17 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE
(Post 235417)
Good info Linc. Maybe you need to coat the inside of the shrinkwrap with something to keep it from sticking to the epoxy, hence making it easier to remove after the epoxy has hardened/dried. I am not sure what you can use without affecting the epoxy itself, like WD40, or Pam, or some other kind of releasing agent. The proceedure is kind of interesting to watch from the outside perspective. Thank you for sharing this with us.
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If I used the plastic type of heatshrink, such as the type used on lipos, I feel it would be easy to remove. I only had the rubber type and did not even think that the epoxy would stick to it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by brushlessboy16
(Post 235427)
I was wondering if that was going to happen..:oops:
Why not a later of way paper or something?
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I may use some plastic wrap, as what's_nitro suggests.
Quote:
Originally Posted by What's_nitro?
(Post 235435)
Even better, use plastic sandwich wrap. It's very thin and also impermeable. Wax paper might still allow some epoxy to get through and stick it all together, plus it's much thicker than the plastic wrap.
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I may try this out on something other than a magnet and see how it does.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempted
(Post 235490)
I would use a balloon. You can melt it off with a lighter without hurting the epoxy. Just pull as much off first, then burn the remaining a little at a time. Keep the rotor dunked in water as soon as you burn the balloon and it should be just fine.
Edit- I was just thinking, exactly how important is the exterior wrap? Just let the epoxy dry and sand it smooth.
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I may just try to do it without using shrink. With a thin coating of epoxy and tightly wrapping the thread, the epoxy flowed thru nicely. I need a better method of holding the rotor while wrapping. Guess I will have to enlist the help of the bench vise... |
