A question on the new 3 shoe clutch system that I have is about clearance between the clutch bell and the center diff mount? On my 8T when using the Tekno RC clutch bell I have to dremel a little (not an issue at all) to ensure that there is clearance for it to spin. I noticed that a standard nitro clutch bell's diameter is larger, which causes me to think that I have to dremel a little more for. Does that sound right?

That's exactly right. That's also the reason we went with the smaller clutch system in the beginning, because it fit in more places. Using the 44mm mount and a 13t clutch bell requires the most grinding while the 36mm mount or our new (yet to be released :) square can motors will provide more clearance. We've found that the Mugen and Losi required the slight mod, while RC8, Jammin and Hot Bodies more clearance.

Hello,
Not sure about a 'fix'. What is your setup? How hot is the clutch running? Let us know and hopefully we can help you out.

I figured you had that base covered......and I have been holding off on more motor purchases because I was hoping for square can versions of the 1512 and 1509. Which and when are they going to be available? The square 1515 in my 8t has been awesome. It's been worth the price.

Are there any plans of making blue spacers and longer screws for the revo motor mount? This is something I have seen other member do, to allow them to get away from the long shank pinions. It would be nice to have parts that were colored the same as the mount, it would be something I would be interested in. This would allow me to use the same pinions that I use for my erevo. If not, I will send in for the new three clutch system with thinner spring.

Teknorc: I was curious what effect, if any, that the long shank pinions have on motor bearings? During operation, doesn't the flexing/twisting of the chassis put stress on the motor bearings (front especially) from the spur/pinion pressing together?

BTW: I'm not trying to slam the product, just was curious about your thoughts on this...

That is the reason I was hoping for the extension to the motor plate would come out.

Good point. I've suggested Tekno in another thread to have Clutch-Free version of theire conversions, using standard mod 1 pinion instead of long shank for customers to choose from, but not very likely to be accepted.
So far Tekno is the only one insists using of a clutch among all those available 1/8 conversion kits, RCM, Novak, CC, RCdesign produts, Losi, AE, and new Hongnor.

its in my sig lol but here goes

revo platinum with 120k center diff
tekno Nue 1515 2.5D F
5 cell lipo
castle creations HV110 esc with CC BEC
revo responce tires
geared 16/36 33mph

my slipper is set fairly lose (the truck will not lift at all) the drive train is silky smooth, nothing binding or catching with cermaic bearing

after 5min my clutch is +325 degrees

i have tried alot of things includeing diffrent shoes,springs as well as 3 and 4 shoe clutches and vented clutch bells

i am haveing to change clutch shoes every race (traxxas stock revo)they are often deformed around the pin, blue in color and melted

i have tried sanding the clutch bells,and even running without clutch springs

i need a real fix for this before this season starts, i exchanged emails with tekno last year about this with no results

That's ok, I don't care either way. It's nice to have options for these conversions.

I assume you retained the two speed setup in the tranny? Sorry if this was already answered in a previous post...

Brian, thanks for your questions. No negative effects have been seen at all. This is due to the bracing around the gear mesh area thats included in the Tekno kits. This keeps the twisting/flexing confined to only specific areas of the chassis (kinda like a tuned flex Losi chassis).

No official plans as of yet. But be on the look out, I spy something new on the horizon...

Sorry, but the long shank pinion are the only option for direct drive. Reason is because of offering the clutch option and this requires more room. I encourage you to try the new clutch. We have been getting very good results.

Thanks for your support!

yes its still useing the 2 speed with close ratio gearing

It may have something to with the ESC you're using. It's an airplane ESC, so it has a soft start, which may be causing the clutch to slip excessively during takeoff. I tried an airplane ESC and there was just too much lag for my taste, even slower than a high value punch control setting on the Mamba's. Also, just in case no one has mentioned it, be sure the shoes are in the leading edge position, not trailing like you would have them in nitro.

The HV110 ESC doesn't have that soft start issue you are speaking of. Well, it can if you set it that way. My HV110 had just as much oomph as the MMM on my GTP.

Yeah, if the settings are wrong, there could be a lot of low rpm slip. But I wouldn't think it would be an issue if not even using a clutch spring at all.

the esc set up fine, i have run it with both a mamba monster V2 as well as the hv110, unless you have used both you couldnt understand how much better the hv110 is.