I'm with Jhautz.

i would say use some punch control, if you dont your gonna spin alot off the line. then you will be sideways. you might be a little slower off the line but once your up to about 5 mph and full power flow that thing should be pretty fast.

Another thing you might want to consider is putting in a gyro to help keep the car going straight.

It will be difficult to beat a 1/10 with a 1/8, that's why I think they should have different classes.

Regardless, you have a really nice road car right there!

I also agree with these 2 guys. I'm working on my Vendetta, trying to get the 62mph (100 km/h) with that thing. I'm running mamba 8000kv, 3 cell LiPo and a Quark Competition 80B ESC. That thing really flies! But it's SO DAMN HARD to control it! I always have to start really slow, or else it will spin, and if I go something like 40-50 mph and trying to go slower the car will spin most of the time :lol:

So again: Traction will be the biggest problem :yes:


EDIT: What's a gyro? (My english isnt very good)

Gyro's are a waste in a dragrace. I've seen 1/8 against 1/10 and both can be equal in a132 feet dragrace. But if a purpose built dragster is in the mix, you can forget it. However if it's a 300 feet race, then anything is possible.

so does that protoform body fit directly onto an 1;8th scale buggy chassis?

any vids of this onroad conversion? cooL ride!

Guys,

Thanks for all the comment.

1) I realised that traction will be a big factor in a drag race. In general, the performance of the tires will affect the performance of the car. I have some proline road rage but I suspect these will balloon excessively if i use it. I will use some punch control to reduce wheel spin. I am also thinking of using some traction compound (like sugar water ?) but have no experience in this area.

2) The suspension & diff oils also need to be changed. Right now, I think the diff are all filed with grease (came with the kit) & not sure what the shock oil is like. I will most likely increase the weight of the oils in all aspects

3) Gyro & stuff - steering rate will be decrease, toe-in will be increased & steering end points reduced to help with straight line stability. Forgot to mention earlier that I will be using a Futaba GY240 head holding gyro in rate mode to keep the car pinting straight

4) The protoform body does seem to fit nicely on my sacker which is a near copy of the older Kyosho & HB lightning 1

Regards,
Joe Ling

I wouldnt turn down your steering.. definately a gyro but you gonna need a bit of steering to counteract the loss of traction


edit- maybe alot of exponential so its easy with minute adjustments and has all the throw when you need it

I don't need a gyro with either the gtp or crt.5. If you set your car correctly, you'll track straight everytime.
The sugar water or grape soda will only work if the track is wiped, blown clean. If you use foam tires, reduced honey might work. If it's on grainy concrete, reduced honey will work as well on launch.
Punch control is in the finger in 1/8 scale.

I'm primarily an offroad guy & so I know nothing about onroad stuff lie faom tires, traction compound. So, this info is good :yes:. I think I will be running on bitumen (i.e. road).

Well, I'll just have to try it & figure out something