Continued.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_1f0af83a.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4d55b15f.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_b4274775.jpg

And even a little tool to screw on or off the thingamajigers.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4eb56556.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_0533b36a.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_057a0396.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_0b1df0fa.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_61d05478.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_0162467c.jpg

I have been using this set without a single problem for a couple of years now. There is absolutely no slop. The pics shown are of my nitro Revo. I just made a new set for my upcoming BL Erevo.

And this is what was said about the nut. It works this has been race tested and I never lost a wheel. I don't even use Locktite anymore.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_9d6f8dcf.jpg

And one last thing I did about the set screw. I install the adapter and thingamajiger on a stub axle, chuck it in the drill press and with a cut off wheel on my Dremel, I make a slot all around for an O ring. No need for Locktite and no more lost set screws. The O ring keeps it from backing out too far.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4597e53f.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_2d8995f3.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_8ef3dc35.jpg

Nice work MC. We were working along similar thoughts.

Here is mine. Basically what I was saying. A couple reasons I went the way I did. I had intended to initially use stainless steel. It doesn't rust (obviously) but two its harder than alu, but softer than most steels so it wouldn't be too hard to work with, especially the tapping. It also was available in 6mm dia. As it turned out, it was still pretty tough to run a tap thru, and I didn't want to break my tap. I bailed on it and cut up a bent pushrod instead. Also, I don't have a drill press yet, so making a really straight bore hole w/ hand tools would be tough. Using the bit I had, I sent it down the backside of the adapter so it would automatically line up. I would have liked to leave some of the adapter left so the threaded insert would lock into the adapter, but it was too much of a pita for the tools I had. If possible I would try it this way.

The pushrods are 7075, and are threaded in rather than bouncing on threads, so it should last a while. Also, I used a 5mm setscrew locked in w/ red locktite on the end so it could be removed w/ a hex wrench. As said, the Revo soon enough went on the shelf, so I haven't put tons of hrs on it.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...4/IMG_6251.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...4/IMG_6253.jpg

That's cool, very functionnal. Yes it appears we got the same idea and that was to keep the adapters off that threaded portion of the stub axles and tighten everything up. Not to long ago, I also tried to make my own stub axles that have no threads. This would've simplified the process since the only thing needed to be done to the adapters would've been to drill through with a 6 mm drill bit and then it would've slid on the stub axle with no slop.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_26df4fda.jpg

I decided to stay with the way I did it at first because I now use Summit shafts on my Revo and I just don't have the tooling to machine a threadless stub axle with a CV style joint on the opposite end.

Finnster - do you get any wobble out of that? In the top pic, it looks as though you've got a little runout issue on the spliced shaft - but it may be an optical illusion.

I picked up a set of axles with the RD 8mm stubs and 17mm hexes, all brand new on ebay for $19.99! I was merely looking for a chop shop set of axles to pick up cheap and came across them, bid and no one else did. I couldn't beleive it, they look to be excellent quality but I have yet to install them.

You might run into bearing issues. Your gonna need a 8mm outer bearing, which might not be easy or even possible to find. I can't remember the new bearing size for the new style knuckles, but you might have to get RD Racing knuckles or the Tekno ones.

@Mistercrash- Another option, and cheaper, is the Tekno kit. The RD Racing kit is something like $200 for the knuckles, axles and hubs, and the Tekno is only $80. Just a alternative to the RD and M2C.

Tried these?
 

I wanted to see if I could come up with an 8mm set myself and decided to purchase some Firehammer stubs and convert them. I drilled them for the pin, and then cut them to length. They only cost like $9, and then I can use some of the 17mm adapters out there without issue. This is what I came up with using the HPI 17mm adapters with the fireHammer stub axles.
(http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...E/f3afb0a9.jpg) I am having a full set up RCAlloy dogbones made for them.

Not entirely sure what you mean, but I forgot to note that I had to sandpaper the pushrod adapter I made just a bit to make it fit nicely. As said I don't have a drill press yet (always on the wish list..) and I used a SAE bit to drill out the hex. The adapter was made as close to straight as I can make it by hand. Its quite tight and no wobble, but slides on easy enough.

You're talking about the axle carriers right? The mod I did are for the Ofna adapters, I didn't do any mods to the carriers. I used the modded Ofna adapters on the old TRX axle carriers, the RPM axle carriers, the RD Racing axle carriers and the new TRX carriers introduced on the Platinum Edition Revo which I'm still running now. The modded Ofna adapters end up costing under $30 total not counting my time. Time spent in my garage is priceless :mdr:

I was just referring to where you said the most durable and slop free was the RD Racing with the 8mm axles. I was just mentioning the new Tekno kit that is pretty similar, just uses plastic knuckles instead of the aluminum RD uses. Alot cheaper than the RD kit, since its the most expensive, by far.

Ok I get it. I read slow and you must have typed too fast so that's why I got confused :mdr: I never tried the Tekno system, it looks interesting but I'm waiting on feedback of other people that have been using them for a while to find out if the aluminum rings they use on the carriers will really prevent the pillow balls from popping out. But right now, the Ofna adapters I modded and the TRX carriers with steel rings have been doing so well that I don't feel like changing anything.