Thats sad to hear. The drivetrain needs to be upgraded. Heck look at the savage flux its all metal to handle the power of the mmm combo. Plastic just doesnt cut it.

So I have to respectfully disagree with that statement (I know the troubles a few of you have had). I've had great success with the stock plastic shafts, on 5S and 6S, whereas I bent two sets of MIP's and some other brand (bought used, no idea for certain which they were).

Got to agree with JThiessen on this.

I have been running both the 3905 maxx setup and erevo setup with 6s on the MMM for almost a year now with no diff or any other drive train problems.

I will also agree with JT I have a 10s/ 1515/2y revo and never any probs myself...I am thinking its your running style, I am guessing a lot of WOT from a standstill and attempted standing backflips.....

I am geared for only 38mph and my truck has the punch control set at 70% and the slipper is set not to allow a wheely. I still can rip apart a plastic driveshaft. I broke 3 in one battery on the track. There are 2 other e-revo owners here and they have had driveshaft issues too. My lhs also tells people the first upgrade should be a set of cvds.

Now I had an lst2 with a 5s lipo geard for 48mph with a almost locked slipper(it could do a standing backflip with out issues) and NEVER had drivetrain issues. It was rock solid!!! The cvds are still one the truck 3 years later and the diffs have been in there for over a year! I beat that truck with jumps over my house to 100ft drops of the sand dunes!! Never had issue. I cant do that with the stock e-revo driveshafts or diffs. They just dont hold up.

I have to disagree as well, I have a 3.5 yr old revo Gmaxx conversion, the revo parts are near 4 yrs old, i broke a driveshaft on a 6s run recently. That"s nearly 4 yrs of hard running and abuse, from an HV4400 to the current Neu/quark/5s setup (6s was just for giggles and to see if the quark would survive). It took 6s lipo's to break the 4 yr old shaft. I plan to replace the driveshafts and expect 4 yrs of service from them again. Oh, these were the driveshafts, that were used, when I broke the pinion on my hybrid diff (V.1), Of which only two have ever broke on the V.1's (Mine was the first)

Well comeing from a lst2 and knowing what kind of abuse it could take, then going to the e-revo. It was a night and day durabilaty difference. I have had the diff cups blow up and the driveshafts snap. When racing it sucks to have a driveshaft go 5 mins into the race. It happened to many times. I dont know what you all are doing different than the guy around here(including me) but we all cant seem to get them to hold up for very long. Heck I wish they would b/c it would have saved my a ton of money($65 for the vanatage racing which died after 4 runs and $130 for the mips)

Edit: dont get me wrong I love my e-revo! It handles great and jumps very flat. That why I still have it. I friend of mine is getting one next month b/c of how nice my truck runs. He owns a savageX now and is going electric with the BE e-revo! (all he had to do was drive mine once and he was sold!!!)

6S vs 4S
 

At first i thought 6S was going to be undriveable but at least in the case of the MMM and 2200 combo use of punch control makes it very drivable. the major benefit are temps, run times and current. I find the temps are 30-40 lower, run times with 5000 batts are at least 10 mins longer (2S 5000 25C vs 3S 5000 25C batts) and of course current draw is 20-40% less.

I have a friend who just bought one of these, I raced him on 2 2s 5000mah packs and it could not pass my vxl slash running a 2s 4500. Now he wants to gear it for top speed so he can beat me, any suggestions on gearing? He is running bone stock and agrees that it has all torque and little top speed.

What's stock on the BL Erevo- 18/68? He could try 20/68, or 22/68 even- all depends if the batteries can keep up with the current draw, same too with the MMM (that shouldnt overheat easily though).

Im running 20/58 and dont get over 130°. Thats about 40mph. If his batteries are up to the task 22/58 will rock.

It looks like I just puffed my first lipo. I am using (2) maxamps 2s 6000mah(these are the 2s2p) I have ran them w/o issues in my emaxx for probably 25 cycles. I have not had issues up till now in the BE e-revo. I ran the pack for aprox 20 minutes, then switched the stock wheels/tires for some proline offset dish wheels with proline badlands on them. I finished out the packs on them, but I did run till it was obvious that the packs were spent. When I pulled the packs to charge one was fine and the other was puffed. It seems that one side draws more than the other, as with my emaxx I assume that one side is powering the servos solely?

I have always balanced these packs while charging since new. Upon discovering the puffed condition I put my balancer on to see what was going on. It appeared that this pack had become severely out of balance. (I use astro blinkey balancers.) I guess I'm puzzled as to what caused this condition. I have the esc set for auto lipo. The packs probably have 30 cycles on them.

1. ran the packs down to far?
2. the change of wheels had an effect?(the prolines have an overall smaller circumference)
3. maxamps packs suck?(:whistle:)
4. It just happens?

I was told over the phone by maxamps that the 6ks were not ment for a mt. Only the 8ks were. Sorry to hear about your loss. Maxamps took care of me when I had issues with my 6ks . They have great CS

18/65.....and for some reason a 54t spur comes in the box:neutral:

Anyone using these center shafts? Recommend? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWJY9&P=Z