It is currently designed to use the stock tvp mounting holes. HOwever, a neu 1527 is too long and won't fit in the space alotted. I currently have mounting holes to have it mount at the front 2 holes of the stock transmission mounting holes. I can make a second set of holes to have it mount in the 2 rear which would allow you to use the neu 1527, but it would also limit battery space.

To give you an idea of the size of the gearbox, the entire thing sits inside the TVP. Nothing hangs over the side, sticks out the bottom, or even the top, so its pretty small. Smaller than even the kershaw designs DD gearbox. The whole thing is smaller than the stock savage tranny.

EDIT: also, what is the distance between bearings on the standard hotbodies/ofna/kyosho diffs?

I will pull the center diff out of my hyper8 and let you know, you want the dimesion from the inside of the bearings? Or the out side? I will give you both. Do you prefer inches or metric? My dial calipers do inch, the mertic ones walked off one day...!!!

I planned to mount the setup where the stock tranny is and place the motor pointing towards the back of the truck. Batteries would be in front. This truck will have a 23" wb (long) so I plenty of room. Planned to use the savage xl rear driveshaft in the rear and a custom length shaft in front.

The diff cups that come on the slipperential should fit the stock savage center driveshafts. Most of those dogbones are the smae size on the ends.

I can say that the savage xl have larger ball ends on the wheel shafts than the center shafts have. I have used the lst and muggy center driveshafts and the lst1 wheels driveshafts as center drives. They have a cvd end with 8mm hole, so they work with the savage pinion gears. The dogbone end fits the savage output cups on the tranny, and most center diff cups too. 1/8 scale buggys and truggys are mostly standardized on the dogbone end size.

I can't see your pix here, but I'm excited to see them later, sry for the hijack :)

When you say 44:25, are you talking spur/pinion? or the internal tranny gears? I assume the former, which is still quite low (~16:1), but workable. Only bad part would be the rapid wear on such a sm pinion. G/L

I was talking about the spur pinion. The flux stock with 44:25 spur:pinoin is about the same as Big joes, Cen diffs, and 50:9 (slipperential pinion) ratio.

Here´s the slipperental savage build
http://rc-dc.ch/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=35
stay tuned

it's not sealed :(. Any word on the dimension between the bearings?

Not enclosed is no issue, just look at truggies and stuff.

Distance between bearings is just like xray, mugen etc diffs. I can measure it up tonight if you want.

I don't have any truggies, so I can't measure the distance, so if someone could do that, it would be greatly appreciated.

About being sealed, there is a large difference between truggies and a savage. To start, most truggies have a chassis with no holes on the bottom, and the body covers most of the openings. I have a buggy, and there is about a 1/8" gap between the body and the chassis. Very little dirt gets in. On the other hand, the savage chassis is completely open, and the body barely protects it at all. Many people (such as my self) run without a body (I have a nylon rollcage instead). This means there is absolutely nothing protecting the gears from larger debris. If even a small rock interferes with the gears, it will cause a lot of damage. In addition, running sealed allows you to lubricate better, for less overall wear on the gears. Therefore, I want a sealed gearbox on my savage.

huh, every truggy I have seen has a hole for the spur gear... and this savage has a skidplate with no holes.

trust me, enclosures are not needed. (Remember the MadForce/Twinforce and many other trucks?)
We had a center diff savage like that before, no issues whatsoever, still running stong, with bashing in gravel pits and everything.
It's completly sealed from below anyway, and some lexan sheets behind the TVPs would complete the job...

A direct drive pinion to spur needs no lubrication.

But to each his own

Daf

Hey, the spur/pinion is always open, and that's everything there is anyway, no transmission as such...

I agree with Dafni, I have run open mod1 spur /pinion on a Gmaxx transmission without problems for over two years.

Dafni, I'm not fond of the losi shocks on there (make it look too bulky for my tatse) but very nice setup, on the level of your revo setups

Is there a downside to sealing it up? I cannot think of any reason to not seal it up, and the lack or debris will add to the gears lifespan.

While a direct drive may not require lubrication, it will extend the life of the gears... And lube usually keeps stuff cooler, which is always good.

Access to the center diff may be more difficult, but once you have it set correctly it is not really necessary to get to it.

You would not consider running the ring/pinion without lubrication...

I don't think there is any downside other than increased mass, but then again, we are talking abou brushless here. Increased mass near the front means more traction, which means you can put down more power.

Regardless, I guess this is a thing of what the ed user likes best. I like sealed better, some others might like open better for the weigt savings.

Any word on the distance between bearings on a standard center diff?

BTW: My gerbox is currently less than 200grams, and still has plenty of room to reduce that more. I am going to wait till I have final dimensions before I really lean it out though.

Bearing distance on XRay/Mugen/Slipperential Diff: 32.5mm (32.3 on xray?)

Ok, measured the diff and it is 34mm from the outside of the bearing to outside of the other bearing. That is a hyper8 diff with a plastic kyosho spur, so it should be the widest spur/cup combo you will encounter. Any slack can be taken up with 16mm od shims.