LOLOL, I like that filter thingy on the ESC! That noob shouldn't get a new MMM ESC by warranty...

What's stock pinion, 20T? I'd use BrianG's calculator and set a target speed of 35-40 MPH and measure your temps often. If your temps look OK then you can bump the pinion up a little.

Yah, its 44/20T. What calculator?

http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_solver.html

I'm not sure that you really need a 12T pinion, perhaps a 15T to start with.

freezebyte-

I'm all for helping noobs. You've come to the right place if you want brushless advice.

However.... Your logic is flawed. You mentioned in your savage thread, for as much as you spent, you should just be able to take it out of the box and use it.

Well, these are toys, but they are the most highly technical toys I can think of. To think you can just pull it out of the box and use it.... well....the burnt mmm tells the story.

The failure was your fault, quite simply.

If you don't want it to break again stick around and read up. Best of luck.

Good god, a freaking 15T pinion just for getting bigger tires? Thats rediculous.

Uh newsflash if you reread the link, ITS NOT MY TRUCK.

Just run the numbers and see what it tells you. Dont forget to account for ballooning on those Joes - should be significant unless you tape the crap out of them. Just like putting bigger tires on a real truck, gotta gear down too if you want to keep your power. 99% of the "maroons" running 35's and 6" lifts dont realize that until its too late....they now have a gutless penis extension....

Might not be able to fit a 15T on the Flux - depends on how far you can adjust the motor.

It's physics, and it won't change no matter how much you hate it. It doesn't matter if you use CC, tekin, novak, or some other brand.

The heavier you get the truck, the more you need to gear down as well. It's not just wheel size but rotating mass and total vehicle weight as well.

His problem is a combination of stupid moves.

1. Heavier tires and wheels
2. Adjusting the EPA to limit speed
3. Putting a sock on the ESC
4. Not adjusting gearing
5. Not verifying that when he reassembled the truck that there was no binding

All of these combined for disaster.

Last note I will make is that anyone investing this kind of money into a high performance BL RC should spend the 15 bucks at least for a temp gun and monitor your setup constantly after any new changes.

Excellent points made by everyone here obviously. This is the best forum for technical advice.

I think 'attitude' has a lot to do with these problems as well... and it's partially the fault of the manufacturers such as Traxxas and HPI. Everyone seems concerned about the reliability of their setup after they burn six new holes in it. Well, you need to PLAN for reliability from the beginning and that means gearing your vehicle to a reasonable speed. Not some internet e-dick speed like 65.

40 MPH is damn fast for a 10+lb RC car. Have some humility and start with gearing that will get you to 40. If things work out, from there you can slowly try to work your way up in speed while monitoring the temps of your system.

Noob 0, laws of physics 1.

Its sad to see a toasted esc and then the person repsoncible blame everything and everyone else, including castle for the failure, really is. He probably saw the link to this thread and is now weeping his heart out- we're a horrid bunch, but its true; learn from the old guys and ask advice before making changes- these arent ToysRus vehicles after all....

i have that outwears filter on my sc8 as well but it was only because it was winter time and the track was muddy and wet....and i only used 4s....it helped to keep out the mud and my temps were ok (back to back 4s lipos runs of 17min each) but i definitely wouldn't use it if i was running 6s or 6s runs of 35+mins.....anyways...tell your buddy to check this site out..there is a TON of info about brushless and i only trust the guys on RCM if I have a question...rc-related or not :)

Well for one thing, the Flux motor isn't on that calculator nor the 40 series tires

Oh but it is, but it is- use the Neu 1515 1y 2200kv, as thats the motor the FLUX is based on (Castle licensed the Neu design and built it en mass since Neu couldnt possibly produce enough to fill demand). :mdr:

Ah ok, now I see them.

Hmm, i'm getting this with stock 44/20 with Big Joe 40 series with 4S at 4.2v fully charged

Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 2.215277777777778
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 20
Total Voltage: 16.8
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.4
Tire Ballooning (inches): .2
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor coil Ω: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.2 : 1
Total Ratio: 16.12041 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 21.36 inches (542.62 mm)
Total Motor Speed: 36960 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 46.38 mph (74.51 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 2200
KT constant: 0.61 oz-in/A

Or at 3.7v

Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 2.215277777777778
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 20
Total Voltage: 14.8
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.4
Tire Ballooning (inches): .2
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor coil Ω: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.2 : 1
Total Ratio: 16.12041 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 21.36 inches (542.62 mm)
Total Motor Speed: 32560 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 40.86 mph (65.64 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 2200
KT constant: 0.61 oz-in/A