:lol:

IM not saying to ca the thing in place. the epoxy acually fills the gap and when cured should form a nice hex shape, if you dont go overboard on the stuff and cake the whole hex then you will be able to get it out.

to each his own.:smile:

http://www.makewish.org/atf/cf/%7BA9...%20splash6.jpg

I am guessing this pic was before Ben got on that "tanning" kick... He looks a bit darker now IIRC!

I epxoyed one of my 17mm rim hexes that was rounded about 3/4 of the way into the wheel (nut came loose and only rounded part of the rim). I put a film of grease on the wheel hex so the epoxy wouldn't stick to it and I could pull it back out of the rim easily.
It worked well for me, but maybe if yours are badly rounded put some grooves in the rim a bit like aqwut did, then the epoxy should have more chance of holding onto the rim. Does JB weld work on plastic? Maybe that is stronger than epoxy.

my last name is White remember?

Thats what i was thinking - does the grease on the hub affect the epoxy?
Would wd-40 work as a release agent?

can you see what I did. it worked, and been working for a while now...Attachment 7185

Attachment 7186

I dont follow.

the moral of this story... don't let your nuts get loose:lol:

your just waiting for someone to jump on that arent you?:lol:

Jump on you nuts? Ouch...

not mine, yours.

if you were looking at the side of the hex, not the face, maybe it would be clearer. If you looked at a wheel mounted on your truggy, you would see the 17mm nuts face.

Now, looking at the side of the hex on the truggy, drill and tap an m3 hole. You would be drilling and tapping the round part, not the flat part. Now make slots on the wheel that an m3 screw will go through and thread into your newly tapped hole on your hex.

something something loose nuts blah blah whatever:whistle:

still lost, do i want a hole or slot for the screw to go into?

you want a hole in the hex and a slot in the wheel.

(and your loose nuts off the floor)