They could've made a bigger version of the 90A to keep the same look going.

I've been running that 90A version for about a year now, with great success. Previously it was used with 4s2p A123 and a Great Planes Ammo 36-56-2600 in my Rustler geared 18/46. Now everything is the same, except 4s 3700mah 20C Lipo.

The ESC's software hasn't impressed me too much. But then again I have NO CLUE how to program it since it was given to me to test.

I knew you were going to come in here :lol:. I would like to kow if you have a 4 pole motor to test it out with?

I don't have any 1/10 scale 4pole motors to try, only 1/8. TBH this ESC doesn't seem like it would be up for handling the duties of 1/8, mainly because of braking.

Braking? U mean the braking isn't strong enough?

What about the dimensions and weight of these escs? They look kind of high quality except for those black sponge paddings.

had a short ride again today, once you got used to it, it's quite good.

startup is a bit coggy sometimes, maybe it's because of the 4 pole motor.

After I had again some closer looks today, I don't think it would break (?!), the casing is made of metal. only prob might be that it's not sealed, so dirt could get in.

together with a better 12v fan (attached to the batteries) it stayed almost cold.

after so many mmm, mgm or ezrun just burned w/out any reason, we should give that "budget esc" a chance.

I fixed the steering servo and will got for an other ride.

Here are the specs of the 120A, 90A and 35A 6S units:

120A:

LiPo Cell with / without BEC:2~6
BEC Type:Switching
Programmable BEC Voltage:Yes
BEC Output Current (Peak):3A(7A)
Current Rating(A):120A
Peak Current(A):170A
Weight(g):150
PCB Size(mm):60.0 x 43.5
BEC Output Voltage: 6V

90A:

LiPo Cell with / without BEC:2~6
BEC Type:Switching
Programmable BEC Voltage:Yes
BEC Output Current (Peak):3A(7A)
Current Rating(A):90A
Peak Current(A):130A
Weight(g):120
PCB Size(mm):42.0 x 37.0
BEC Output Voltage: 6V

35A:

LiPo Cell with / without BEC:2~6
BEC Type:Switching
Programmable BEC Voltage:Yes
BEC Output Current (Peak):3A(7A)
Current Rating(A):35A
Peak Current(A):50A
Weight(g):40
PCB Size(mm):37.0 x 25.0
BEC Output Voltage: 6V

Not enough capacitance on the small ESC, so the FETs would have to take the load of braking, which has been known to be a cause of ESC failure. The braking would probably be strong enough, though, but I wish I knew how to program it...

just had an other ride, on grass, wheather got better. I am still a bit insecure, and don't want to destroy my new toy...

5s zippy-r (about2 yrs old), 1700kv losi motor, truggy-wheels, most times full throttle, and not too hard breaking (due to the grip I had once a somersault)

My impressions so far:
good
- great throttle response
- esc stayed cool, don't know if it's the better fan or the two 1000uf caps, but cooler than yesterday. regarding the heavy wheels and the grass, that's pretty good.

not so good
-heavy cogging sometimes after breaking. but most times very soft startup.

the other's guy esc burned, when the car rolled backwards and then wanted to go forwards, heavy cogging, then smoked. he says that this cogging can kill an esc.

here's a pic of the graupner genius 80r, and you see that it's the same like small one above
http://s3.directupload.net/images/090830/zv4vsbtv.jpg
hope my pics work?!

My Schulze burned up when my truggy rolled backwards and when I applied a small amount of throttle to go forward (No cogging though). If the ESC cogs (Stutters), it's basically telling you it doesn't know where the rotor is and that can cause huge AMP spikes. If the ESC cogs a lot, you must stop immediately or risk loosing it or something else. It might just be a software issue due to the lack of testing or the ESC might just be made for 2 pole slotless motors.

I think I will remove reverse, to be on the safe side.

overall there is no cogging, and most times startup is very smooth. but the hard cogging (not that often) just does not feel healthy...

I definately can say that my modded plane esc's had less or no cogging, so thats new to me.

OK now that I know this, i feel worried about my MM and HW150A. So are sensored esc with sensored motors safe from this problem?

Will smaller pinions help prevent sensorless escs from burning up when a truck is rolling backwards and u give it a little throttle?

Speed controls are made different. Some will have a different firing sequence. Sensored ESC should not have an issue locating the rotor. A smaller pinion will lessen the load on the motor, but anything can cause a ESC (Or motor) to fail. If you have a ESC that offers a setting to completely brake before going forward, this should not be a problem and I know the Castle car controllers has this options.

hey lutach,

do you have a manual of that esc? I have NO clue how to change the settings, and they shipped the esc w. the wrong manual... the lipo-cupoff is pretty low, so it almost killed my batteries the other day.

a couple of times the esc was "off" suddenly, maybe it's a problem of the receiver, dunno yet. together with the new 12v fan attached to the batteries, the temps were around 35-40 deg. c after 3 batteries. the rest was ok, too.

thanks a lot,
florian

I don't, I haven't spoken with the manufacturer for a while now. My last e-mail to them was on 12/04/08. Did they send you the program card? They told me that every ESC was going to come with one.