thats it! the center diff, it unloads pulls more current. thats why hv's fail with buggys. your good...:yes:

my first goal when going brushless was to smoke the nitros. That goal has been accomplished. My truggy has no problems keeping up with the nitros out here or passing them. This is running on a 3S, though. If I end up breaking out the 4S, it's so unfair. 5S is simply retarded...and totally unusable. Then again, my motor plays a big part in that.

After racing, though...it's a completely different story. I agree with you wholeheartedly; you must become a better driver. That's the only way you're going to win a race. However...brushless has distinct advantages on a race track; which is why I'm somewhat curious as to the fairness of brushless running with the nitros.

Before anyone pegs me as being anti-brushless, please bear in mind that BL is the ONLY way that I'll run. I hate having to tune a nitro engine...it frustrates me. And I love the ease with which I can run my BL setups all the day long. The only advantage I see nitro having is that in the really long Mains, all they need to do is gas up and they're off. Much quicker than a pit stop for a BL car, no doubt. That's not enough for me to switch over...sorry. Still gonna be brushless, baby. :yes:

If there is one thing that I love about my BL setup: down the straights, I build up an even larger lead. That's one of the things that was killing the other drivers. First one was my consistency...I was rarely on my lid. Second thing was the huge gaps I'd build thundering down the straight.

They're on to me, though. :whip: This next race will be tougher for me...I have no doubt about that. I'm almost certain that they're going to step it up several notches...and with my experience compared to theirs, I think I may have a tough time of it. It's a little nerve-wracking knowing that they're gonna be gunning for me, but I wouldn't have it any other way.

Wish me luck. :mdr:

Yeah, no offense, but you have a stupid setup...:smile:... I mean that with the deepest respect! :mdr: You should invest in a 1500Kv. motor and run 6s, you will not want to go back to LV.

Back to thread topic, I have been thinking about this, and I don't know whether I am simply a good driver, or if I am average and the brushless gave me a big lead? Or both? But I find it odd that my first race I nearly got 2nd place, and then my second race I get 1st, by a long shot, left everyone WAY behind, and broke lap records. So what is it? It could be the track that caters to electric power? Could it be the way the truck setup compared to the other trucks? (lowest suspension setting, P3 rockers) Could I have still gotten 1st if I were behind the wheel of a nitro Revo 3.3 setup the same way? Perhaps, I don't know... one thing I do know is.... well, BRUSHLESS ROCKS! :mdr:


I know I have started a thing with the guys at my track, the fasest guy there converted a 8b to Tekin system, and he wants to do a truggy for next year, along with 2 other guys are on the band wagon to get some BL truggies for next year as well.

whaaat? Why, I never! :diablo: Bollocks, sir...pure and simple.







:whistle: just kiddin. :)

Hmm...yes, well, I have been told that several times. The 1.5D is stupid on 4S...and on 5S it's not even anywhere close to a matchup. I was supposed to to do the 2.5D, but when I was ordering the motor, I had two in my shopping cart...and I inadverdantly cancelled out the 2.5D and instead bought the 1.5D. Didn't find out until later (and after they had shipped the motor). :surprised: Great.

Oh well...perhaps in the future I'll get a lower KV motor and get off the LV wagon, but a couple things keeps me on it:

1) I'd have to buy another motor. Don't think I want to starting spending thousands again to get another good setup

2) battery collection. The highest voltage batt I have is a 4S. If I were to switch out to a HV setup, that means I'd need to replace the current battery collection, which is already sitting at about $1500 bucks (more if you count the batts that sacrificed themselves in the conquest of power).

And then, I think I'm awfully spoiled by this monster of a motor. It's so insane I just absolutely love it. :mdr:

Power delivery is the main thing.. my track is hard packed and bumpy. I simply cant put that much power down... throttle control and finesse are you friends with overly torquey cars. but being able to do the "over the top" pass on a nitro over a triple is always fun :lol:

yup. and boy is there torque. 11t pinion and the ferris wheel spur of the X1-CRT makes fer some interesting times. Most especially for the drivetrain.

My old cen matrix did that one better.. 66t spur gear.

sorry for the OT:yes:

i saw on of those old x1 crt's at the track recently. what is with that huge spur gear?? is there an advantage to that?

another ferris wheel. talk about a gearing nightmare. :grrrrrr:

I have no clue. :neutral: Maybe it's to help with the engine temps and to make it quick out of the corners.

I think with the exception of the Cen BB16 was talking about, it's one of the bigger spur gears out there. I think the next closest one is a 56 or 58.

they had buggy diffs and needed the huge spur for proper gear reduction IIRC

From my observation the Tekin 1900 (or a 1512 1.5Y) on 4s w/ zero degrees of timing is a hair more in power than the nitro engines. On 5s it just blows them away.

IMO, it's really runtimes that are the issue especially when the mains are 20 or 30 minutes long. I was running a 20 minute main at a large outdoor track, which I was leading for the 14 minutes by more than a half lap. But when I decided to change my pack at that point, it of course dropped me to second, almost third, and it was hard to adjust to the higher voltage of the fully charged pack. It's difficult because 4s 5000 mah charged to 90% (4500 mah) gives me 19 minutes of runtime geared 14/46. One tooth lower could probably give me that extra minute but it's risky.

One may say to get a bigger pack or go up in voltage and less mah, lower kv motor etc, but I don't really want to add the weight of a higher capacity pack, or have to deal with the higher center of gravity of a pack with more cells. The 1900 on 4s has proven to be a VERY efficient setup with VERY wide gearing range.

just my 2cents
 

Well so far I can say is, that top speed is not that important on track. I saw one track that is tuned for 1:6 2wd cars that allowed me to hit full throttle for more than 2second. What is important and what makes huge difference is how fast you will get to top speed. Nitros are accelerating way slower so if they need to clear longer jump, they have to come at high speed before it and that could be tricky and can cause errors. I can simply come at normal speed, hit full throttle 2meters before the jump and clear it with no problem, therefore less risk, less mistakes, better times.

however without slipperential, my car wasn't smooth as nitros and I did not liked it. Now it's perfect.



p.s. if you are beating nitro truggies with brushless e-revo, it's in hands of pilots. truggy, no matter what powered, will eat revo in corners. or that track is full of jumps after 2meters of straights and nitro truggies cannot clear jumps and you just own them because of that.

+1

throughout a main you adjust to the speed and power very slowly. but after a battery swap its hard to get a rhythm back.



Does anyone know what the averyage MAH per minute on a buggy is with a 15 series on 4s?

Buggy on 4s = ~250mah/min @ track

My Revo on 6s/4200 pack = ~160mah/min @ track

Mind you that is two different owners here.... the buggy number is from a guy at the track, he's fast around the track, and still uses a 'nitro finger' for throttle, so that number should go down as he adjusts.