My brother had his batteries some where else so i couldnt use them, but i did use my crappy 1200 cells for the time and it wasnt as bad. It did it a few times but again, it wasnt as bad after i got my wires redone.

Here is a picture of the wiring, http://www.rcbros.com/images/drewsmaxx/HPIM1012.gif

If you need a different picture let me know.

Forums
 

Im glad to see that your getting the bugs worked out. Thanks to all on here for your input in helping MadDog with this issue.

Hopefully all the little nit nat will be worked out soon and you'll be ripping up the earth with some insane BL Power in no time.......

PLEASE!!!!!! try a seperate battery pack for the receiver.

:) - yea what serum said.. Definately try the receiver battery..

Those Tower battery packs are pretty much useless as well. Also, don't use the controllers bec AND another bec source (like UBEC or Rec.pack). If the black jumper is plugged into the controller, don't plug the UBEC in or any other Rec. pack.

I sure hope you guys get this all figured out. I'm having the EXACT same issues (motor shuts off under WOT, or 2nd gear heavy throttle). Sometimes it just stalls out during a run.

I have the same setup Feiago 9L / 9918 / UBEC, black jumper off, beautiful soldering connections, 12GA wire, 14 cells of GP3300's, new radio system installed (JR XS3 Pro).

It ran perfect for 2 days, then I parked it for a few hours. It started acting stupid on the very next run. Controller became so hot it melted the heat shrink wrap right off (mostly). It was one of those mis-labeled 9918's.

My truck is fairly light, with upgraded drive train and steering, front bulk / front & center skids / ALU chassis brace.

I'm at my witts end with it all, and just ordered another 9L / 30150 Brushless Car Controller.

I've moved my esc mount as far from the motor as I possible can incase motor heat was effecting the esc. I don't want to melt anothr new esc.

Please let me know if you get this worked out.

crjackson,
The 9918 shouldn't even be working up a sweat with the 9L motor. There must be something else wrong to cause the heat. Perhaps a bind somewhere? I have run up to 14 cells on an 8L motor (hotter motor than the 9L) and the controller never got above 150 degrees. Have you got any pictures of the setup? I hope the UBEC isn't the cause (seems to be common on both of these trucks).

Actually I don't. I already took it apart in preperation for a new controller / motor that I just ordered from you today.

I've been all up and down the binding sea-saw and can't find anything. With the motor pinion disengaged, I can actually blow hard enough against the tire chevrons and cause the wheels to spin at any suspension angle. Yes, I'm a blow-hard j/k... :) get it out of your system now...

I purchased an aluminum esc mount that bolts up to the empty motor plate area next to the 9L. I'm hoping that heat transfer from the 9L through the motor plate, through the esc mount caused the problem.

both motor / esc are only a few days old...

I don't think the UBEC is the cause of the stuttering on both trucks.

On the first truck, he is running on 7 cells??? GP's or bad towerhobbies 1200's.

The second truck is building up a lot of heat in the controller, so there must be a mechanical resistance. or a damaged controller Due to that, the voltage may also drop too much.

Your heat transfer theory is unlikely, but your "blow hard" explanation is quite amusing. :) I guess we can take binding out of the equation. Have you run it with a receiver pack or using the controller's BEC vs. the UBEC? I hate to think the UBEC is a problem, but you and the other user in this post seem to be having similar issues and the UBEC seems to be the common link. There are MANY 9918 warriors out there and these two are the only ones I have heard of with this issue. I would like to get to the bottom of it (for the users sake, but also for my own sanity!).

Serum,
Both controllers seem to be having BEC related issues - do you agree? The desription of the problem sounds exactly like low BEC voltage to me. The Cheap tower cells are definately a problem on the first truck, but the melted heatshrink on the second truck is throwing me. These warriors run pretty cool, especially with the 9L (not that hot).

Other than spinning all the wheeles, CVD's, drive train, spur gear ect... can you tell me any method for checking of binding.

All my cvd's have PLENTY of end play at every suspension angle, and the motor pinion/spur gear has about 0.10 in lash so I know it's not too tight...

It ran very cool the 1st day and most of the second day. Then after I parked it and tried to run again - hours later - cool 40* night it started acting stupid as soon as it turned it on. It didn't get 1-2 min into a run when it stalled out over and over. I check the heat and the esc was really super hot to the touch (the motor always is).

I let it cool (thinking the batts were low) and repeaked the batts. It was no better. I removed the esc and found most of the heat shrink was melted away. Once I saw that, I didn't even try anymore, I just removed it and placed my order the the top line controller you have posted, and a new motor in case that was the cause.

Man only days old and starting over again...

I made a new mount from a thick piece of lexan and moved the position of the esc (when it gets here) as far from the motor as I can get it...

Send the controller back to me if you like. i will play around and see if I can determine the cause. I am curious if the UBEC is a factor. Could you try it with a receiver pack in the mean time (should be a day or two before your new stuff arrives)?

I bought the controller from starluck. I'm trying to see if he will accept a return on it. He's not repiled yet so I assume He's busy at work and will get back to me tonight. I'm just kind of impatient and placed my order anyway.

I do have a good 2000Mah rx pack that I can test with if the new controller has issues.

The UBEC I bought from you last week though...

If Jamie won't accept a return on it however, I'll be glad to send it to you for examination. I'd like to know what caused it too.

I've even wondered if BK didn't mess up other things on it besides the sticker. It was one of those branded as a 7018 by mistake...